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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2007, 12:30 AM
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using only the master cylinder and takin out the break booster

Hi guys... another question from me...

I drive a 73 dodge challenger. I took out the cast iron master cylinder along with the break booster. The other day I bought an aluminum master cylinder (the kind that bolts with two bolts instead of four) off of a 1986? (i think) dodge van. dont remember what model, but it was a passenger van and it had a 360 power plant. Anywho... can I install the master cylinder on my cars firewall with out a break booster. I have a 1968 4 door dodge dart with manual breaks that I could take the pushrod out of and use. Since I'm doing away with the break booster.

I've been having tons of trouble with this.

thanks if you can help

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Old 08-10-2007, 07:45 AM
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For about $30, you can go to O-Riley's, and buy a non power booster. The bore size will make the peddle pressure hard, if you ran a power master. (with out the booster)
Dave Tallant Hot Rod KC Mo
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:25 PM
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i just want to run the master cylinder only to keep the weight down seeing as how the "booster" is pretty heavy. whats a non power booster look like. and when you say "power master" you mean a "power master cylinder"?

my cast iron's power master cylinder's bore is really small compared to the aluminum one i have.

Last edited by Arillious; 08-10-2007 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 08-13-2007, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arillious
i just want to run the master cylinder only to keep the weight down seeing as how the "booster" is pretty heavy. whats a non power booster look like. and when you say "power master" you mean a "power master cylinder"?

my cast iron's power master cylinder's bore is really small compared to the aluminum one i have.

He means a non-power master, just like he said ;-)

A power master clyinder will have a slightly larger bore than a manual master.

I would strongly suggest that you get a manual master clyinder that is from your car. most cars came with a manual brake option.

If not, then you have some engineering to do
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Old 08-13-2007, 12:33 PM
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That is correct.
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Old 08-13-2007, 01:49 PM
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oh thanks guys! i got it to work though. i took the push rod off of my gf's dart that had manual breaks and used my aluminum master cylinder. The pedal is a little stiff (alot more than it is when you have a booster) but its ok, i can live with it. i need to bleed the breaks though.
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Old 08-13-2007, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arillious
oh thanks guys! i got it to work though. i took the push rod off of my gf's dart that had manual breaks and used my aluminum master cylinder. .


Quote:
Originally Posted by Arillious
The pedal is a little stiff (alot more than it is when you have a booster) but its ok, i can live with it.
Yep, manual brakes need a stronger leg.
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:10 PM
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The pedal is different on a non-power brake setup also. There is more mechanical advantage with a non power brake pedal than a power unit.
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:26 PM
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sorry if this is a "bad question", but what do you mean by "more mechanical advantage?"
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:51 PM
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In this instance, "more mechanical advantage" means to make the brake pedal so that it has more leverage to put more pressure on the piston in the master cylinder..

The manual pedal is designed to put the pushrod in a position so that the force your foot exerts on the pedal is multiplied more that with the power brake unit. Most manual brake pedals in cars have a 5:1 to 7:1 pedal ratio.

The power brake pedal is designed to move the pushrod further than the manual brake pedal ,given the same travel at the footpad, and depends on assist from the booster to make it have less pedal effort. Power brake pedals usually use a 4:1 up to 6:1 pedal ratio.

Later, mikey
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:55 AM
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ahh ok thanks
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:25 AM
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Here's a little more info if you're interested.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/uploads/docu...alratiopdf.pdf
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:02 PM
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cool thanks!
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