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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:29 AM
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Run the alternator off of the driveshaft. I wouldn't want anybody seeing anything but motor under the hood. (is there a hood?)

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodz428
It is still odd that after that much work you would want advice on an alternator though.
I'm not a "mechanic" as a profession and I certainly don't have 40 years experience. I just enjoy building odd conversion cars as a hobby, most I have learned along the way. Excluding a few exotics my prior experience has mostly been with Fords, I'm simply looking for an alternator thats going to be problematic free, and more updated then a 1970's external regulated alternator. I havent worked on any vehicals never then 1990's so I was hoping that someone at this site could give some suggestions.

Ben
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 09:09 AM
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A W E S O M E
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainsboy
I'm simply looking for an alternator thats going to be problematic free, and more updated then a 1970's external regulated alternator. I havent worked on any vehicals never then 1990's so I was hoping that someone at this site could give some suggestions.

Ben
With that type of conversion, I would suggest (my background compels me to) a Motorcycle alternator that is either mounted on the front snout or one that is separately mounted. Newer bikes have an enormous output to run fuel injection and all the accessories that are standard now and are quite compact. The snout ones are usually permanent magnet and can spin much higher than the Jag will likely rev.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainsboy
I'm not a "mechanic" as a profession and I certainly don't have 40 years experience. I just enjoy building odd conversion cars as a hobby, most I have learned along the way. Excluding a few exotics my prior experience has mostly been with Fords, I'm simply looking for an alternator thats going to be problematic free, and more updated then a 1970's external regulated alternator. I havent worked on any vehicals never then 1990's so I was hoping that someone at this site could give some suggestions.

Ben
I'm not an expert here, but I see you've got a water pump on it. Can you findor modify one of the combination waterpump/alternator units for it?

Also: Wow. Nice build- love the pix!

K
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by killerformula
Can you findor modify one of the combination waterpump/alternator units for it?
K
I never even heard of a water pump/ alternator combo. Sounds expensive. but, I kind of like the idea of it, it would let me run a single pulley for everything. Can you view one online?

Ben
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainsboy
I never even heard of a water pump/ alternator combo. Sounds expensive. but, I kind of like the idea of it, it would let me run a single pulley for everything. Can you view one online?

Ben
Just after a quick search I found this one company, but I think they're more common than just the one. http://www.racemate.com/

I'm sure you could find something on summitracing.com but alternator waterpump combo didn't come up with anything definitive. I think I remember seeing one of them in their catalog (which I'm sure you get). Take a look or give them a call-

K
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 01:51 PM
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Pics! Prove it!

Hell yes, buddy. That's hotrodding at its finest!

Nice surgery.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 03:26 PM
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Cool product but its 600$. It looks like what woodz was talking about in using a motorcycle perminate magnet system.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 04:35 PM
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That's correct, a permanent magnet system of one or the small alternators used on Ninjas,GSXRs as well as Gold Wings. While the alternator/waterpump combo sounds neat, regardless of cost, I am adverse to combining 2 items into one. My experience is that they neither works as well as each individual one or that when one goes bad then you are replacing both. The small bike alt. are pretty easily accessible with many rebuilders and the permanent magnet ones are similar. The small alternators have the advatage of having a cushion drive to absorb vibrations, etc. the Permanent magnet ones offer the ability to mount right on the crank and are used on bikes that turn at least 10 g.

Last edited by woodz428; 07-15-2008 at 04:44 PM.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 06:02 PM
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Brainsboy next time you decide to do something this crazy and unbelievable let us know about it. We like to see this crap.
I love to see craziness!
Do you think people here would have believed that some guy put a huge tank engine in an old mustang? Some things are so crazy you have to prove it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilyGlrM1Q6A
HAAA!! Love it!
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 06:56 PM
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Too cool Brains. Keep the pictures coming.

Amazing.

Jason
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainsboy
I dropped a V12 into a miata, and Im finally getting around to setting up the pulleys. Just curious which type of alternator would be simple and maintence free. I have always used ford alternators in the past but was thinking that maybe a GM style would be a good choice. Any suggestions?

Ben
Ben,

Awesome work! What car did that motor come out of? The GM 1-wire alternator works well. Simple, 100 amps with no problem, available almost anywhere.

Keep posting pix, love to see this kinda stuff!

Antny
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntnyL
Ben,

Awesome work! What car did that motor come out of? Keep posting pix, love to see this kinda stuff!
Antny
Originaly a 1987 jag, but most of the motor has been modified. Parts are scarce so I had to make most of them, which included coming up with my own cam profiles. With the assistance of crane cams I am the first person to use a dual pattern cam with the Jag H.E. v12, because of camshaft changes it caused me to have to build my own timing chain setup,idler pulleys, which I made externally adjustable, I know you guys need proof...
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/DSC01562.jpg
Jag rods are a heavy 975 grams each, so I had the crank ground to use H-Beam 351W ford rods, total saving was 11 pounds off the rotating assembly. Actually I could of used a lighter rod, H beam rods are good for 750hp, but thats for a V8 (94hp per rod) in a V12 the same rods means I could run 1128hp which this motor will never see. From here I used 1.5mm Honda rings, with custom BRC pistons for nitrous. Compression came out to 13.5:1. Heads were completely reworked and ported. Aluminum flywheel and custom bell housing let me mount a 2003 ford mustang 5 speed transmission and clutch. So far I have over 1 year in the making of the motor alone and probably spent more money then the car will ever be worth but I guess thats what a hobby is for.

OK BEFORE AND AFTER PHOTOS

BEFORE
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/DSC01394.jpg
AFTER
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...y/DSC01567.jpg

Ben M.

Last edited by brainsboy; 07-15-2008 at 10:08 PM.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2008, 10:15 PM
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Ben

I've done several Lumps..what Jag guys call SBC/F swaps..but never used the removed 12s except to sell for parts. Race parts are VERY expensive..I can imagine the $$ for the mill.
I like unusual..

A lot of weight on the front of that Miata..what are you doing for suspension ?
The Lucas CEI ignition would roast in the valley and was not much better when later moved to the wall..good to dump it. The high swril May heads were pretty interesting in thier time.

I know fellows that have race prepped 12s..even the HE..but the weight..as you say is the culprit. Smooth..turbine..beautiful..expensive..and just plain wierd..

Hope you don't mind..I posted a line at an international Jag site..

Uh..guess it's too late to ask...

Last edited by Docc; 07-15-2008 at 10:25 PM. Reason: ..voodoo..
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