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  #211 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2008, 02:42 AM
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My dad and I recently rebuilt the 307 in my car and I had one suggestion. You mentioned something about torques specs and I thought it would be helpful to let you know to put a little grease on the washers or the head of the bolt when assembling it. If you don't, you can get false torque readings. I believe you said that this was your first time rebuilding a sbc engine so I thought this could be of some help.



This is a picture of a VW Hot Wheels car that my dad gave to me when I was really little and ever since then I have wanted to have a bug with a V8 in it. The fact that you are putting the engine in the front is awesome to me because it is just like the toy I have. I will be tracking this thread until the car is done and I enjoy seeing te progress you make on it.

Keep up the good work.

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  #212 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2008, 08:15 AM
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You are going to have a tough time keeping that engine from rattling like a box of rocks. Compression ratio is going to be way high. Kind of hard to tell from the pix, but the decks look like they are in no condition for head gaskets.
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  #213 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71 Ventura
My dad and I recently rebuilt the 307 in my car and I had one suggestion. You mentioned something about torques specs and I thought it would be helpful to let you know to put a little grease on the washers or the head of the bolt when assembling it. If you don't, you can get false torque readings. I believe you said that this was your first time rebuilding a sbc engine so I thought this could be of some help.



This is a picture of a VW Hot Wheels car that my dad gave to me when I was really little and ever since then I have wanted to have a bug with a V8 in it. The fact that you are putting the engine in the front is awesome to me because it is just like the toy I have. I will be tracking this thread until the car is done and I enjoy seeing te progress you make on it.

Keep up the good work.
LOL, that's a cool hotwheel! Thanks for the advice!
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  #214 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
You are going to have a tough time keeping that engine from rattling like a box of rocks. Compression ratio is going to be way high. Kind of hard to tell from the pix, but the decks look like they are in no condition for head gaskets.
Chances are I'll have to use some racing gas, but that's OK. Deck cleaning is in order for sure.
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  #215 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2008, 06:26 PM
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283 help?!

I inspected the block some more. Cleaned the top of one piston and fourd "7027P .060", so it's bored over .060 which amounts to a 292. Which is cool. There's a decent a mount of carbon build up on top of the pistons and on about 3/8" of the top of the piston bore. There's also a couple bugs nests in a couple holes up front which I was told is for oil? Last but not least, there seems to be some carbon that's around the top / sides of the pistons and one of the bores has a slight scratch you can feel with your fingernail.

So I'm trying to figure out what to do. ??? Looks like I'll be putting more money into the motor, but it'll be worth it in the long run. I'd like to just go ahead and bore it over .125 so I'll have a 302 or AKA "301" back in the old school days, from what I read. I'm just wondering how much it'll cost to machine the block (decking, hot tanking, boring, honing, etc.) and not to mention the cost of some new bearings, pistons, and piston rings. Good thing is, if the block is good for boring .125, I can select from a bunch of 4" (350) pistons. That and I could get some pistons that'll bring my compression to 10:1 which is what I'm looking for so I'll have a better chance running pump gas.

Do you guys think I could be looking at spending another $1000 easily? Suggestions? I want to stick with this 283 cause everyone and their grandmother has a 350 and the 283 (bored to a 302) would make for a great high revving motor.
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  #216 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2008, 04:05 PM
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A thousand easy, if you attempt to bore .125 if it is even possible with your block. I would look for new .60 over 8.5 to 9.0 pistons so you can run it on pump gas. With an honest 275 hp that bug would be a blast with the right gearing.
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  #217 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2008, 04:32 PM
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Those pistons are old tech. I wouldn't go boring the block until I had miked it to see if it's still OK. But I would forget using those pistons with your heads ( ever heard an engine with the wrong piston crowns hitting the heads?). Besides something like 13-1 compression ( a guess.. ) pop up pistons have been proved to be a loser when it comes to combating detonation and really only interfere with the quench process.
You really need to use flattops with your new heads to get any real advantage. And..when you over bore you in fact increase the compression ratio ,so 13-1 pistons in a stock bore will not give as high a compression pressure as a 30 or 60 overbore.

PS i wish I could get free SBC's down here..
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  #218 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2008, 05:29 PM
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Ummmm...you'd better re-think using 350 pistons. They won't work with the 3.000" stroke crank and 5.7 rods. Add up the stack....1/2 the stroke is 1.500", rods are 5.700", piston compression height is 1.560". That makes 8.760", which is about 0.265" shy of the block deck height at 9.025".

Of course, my mind gets to going when something like this comes up. Not to say the following is rational, but just food for thought the next time this comes up. What if you used the 283 small journal crank, bored the block to 4.000", used whatever 350 pistons you needed in order to get the c.r. you want and used 6.000" rods? The stack would be 9.060", which would pop the piston above the deck by 0.035". Using a 0.071" compressed gasket, the squish would be 0.036". The rods are available from Eagle in a small journal size, part number SIR6000SPLW $278.67
Here's the head gasket....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

What heads are you going to use? I'll dial in a piston for this combo.
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  #219 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2008, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Ummmm...you'd better re-think using 350 pistons. They won't work with the 3.000" stroke crank and 5.7 rods. Add up the stack....1/2 the stroke is 1.500", rods are 5.700", piston compression height is 1.560". That makes 8.760", which is about 0.265" shy of the block deck height at 9.025".

Of course, my mind gets to going when something like this comes up. Not to say the following is rational, but just food for thought the next time this comes up. What if you used the 283 small journal crank, bored the block to 4.000", used whatever 350 pistons you needed in order to get the c.r. you want and used 6.000" rods? The stack would be 9.060", which would pop the piston above the deck by 0.035". Using a 0.071" compressed gasket, the squish would be 0.036". The rods are available from Eagle in a small journal size, part number SIR6000SPLW $278.67
Here's the head gasket....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

What heads are you going to use? I'll dial in a piston for this combo.
Thanks for the suggestion and help! I bought some vortec heads for my build.
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  #220 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2008, 03:49 AM
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9.6:1 with these pistons.....
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance....tails&P_id=155
10.2 with these...
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance....etails&P_id=47
and these....
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance....tails&P_id=157
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  #221 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2008, 02:18 PM
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Awesome advice as always! I have a lot of food for thought! Thanks!
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  #222 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2008, 02:01 PM
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283 block #

Finally got the number.



From what I've read this is a good block to have? Casted between 58-67. I don't really know how to tell what it came out of.
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  #223 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2008, 05:27 AM
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If the decks have been surfaced there will be no way to tell what it came from, the partial VIN and build code will be gone. If it hasn't been surfaced it will be stamped on the very front of the passengers side deck. When the head is installed there will still be a machined area exposed, that is where they are marked. You can narrow down what year it was cast, there is a date code cast into the block.
Likely yours has been surfaced, slim chance it hasn't.

A site like THIS will explain a lot.
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  #224 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2008, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
If the decks have been surfaced there will be no way to tell what it came from, the partial VIN and build code will be gone. If it hasn't been surfaced it will be stamped on the very front of the passengers side deck. When the head is installed there will still be a machined area exposed, that is where they are marked. You can narrow down what year it was cast, there is a date code cast into the block.
Likely yours has been surfaced, slim chance it hasn't.

A site like THIS will explain a lot.
Thanks for the heads up on the location of the stamping. I agree, it probably has been surfaced. I did manage to find sites that gave me some info about when it was casted which is between 58-67. I'll see if I can spot the stamped #.

Thanks again!
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  #225 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2008, 11:56 AM
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hi vw parts

hi was wondering if u still have those vw parts engine and trans and all other parts i'm really in the mist of a good running motor and trans for my project vw super bettle i'm rebuilding so let me know if u still have the parts thank you for your time .

frank
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