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  #226 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2008, 04:43 PM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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Hey frank what exactly do you need?? I have 1600cc longblocks and lots of engine parts , im located in CT too PM me

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  #227 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2008, 06:31 PM
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omg cool

hey i live in new britain any really need the parts my old motor crapped out and i'm despritely in need of it my ford festiva is gona crap out soon cause i cant figure out the carb hoses and i really need this thing up and running
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  #228 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2008, 10:04 PM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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Wells i don't really want to steal this fellows thread so pm me your number ill give you a call. what exatly is up with you motor??
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  #229 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2008, 07:31 AM
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VW makes it, Chevy shakes it..
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microsfoftxpuser21
hi was wondering if u still have those vw parts engine and trans and all other parts i'm really in the mist of a good running motor and trans for my project vw super bettle i'm rebuilding so let me know if u still have the parts thank you for your time .

frank

Hi Frank,

Unfortunately I sold it many months ago. You can probably find a good engine for a decent price on craigslist. I know when I was looking for a buyer to take the complete chassis (motor, tranny and all but body) off my hands I was pretty much ready to just hand it over to the first person who came to pick it up.

Matt
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  #230 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2008, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31chevy
Hey frank what exactly do you need?? I have 1600cc longblocks and lots of engine parts , im located in CT too PM me
Perfect!
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  #231 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2008, 08:50 AM
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I got the block 98% broke down this weekend. After I hone the cylinders and clean the deck it'll be off to the machine shop to get hot tanked, new freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. I plan to install the main and rod bearings my self so I'll have the crank check out too.



I also found out that the current cam that was in the block is a Comp Cams 270H which is too much of lift for my stock vortec heads. Either a new cam or valve springs are in order.
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  #232 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2008, 03:51 AM
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V/8 Bug.

Thanks for the up-dates, whats going on with the body any new pictures?
Seen a 1941 F-1 with a Ranger frame with a 302 fitted under the hood it sure looked good. I also found me a good set of wheels & tires on craigslist.org for $500.00 dollars there only a month old the truck was totaled.
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  #233 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2008, 12:45 PM
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Sounds like you got a hell of a deal! You're always finding great deals on that list of craigs.

I haven't done too much with the body within the past couple weeks cause me and the fiancé have been checking out places to have our wedding reception. We found one so I now I'll have more free time on the weekend to put some work into the body. That and it's been pretty darn hot. I'm putting me a fan in the garage to help, but only helps so much.

Here's what she looks like at the moment. I've got the hood and the front fenders on. I'm working on shaving both fenders and the trunk / hood latch.



Also, I've decided to just go ahead and build F-Bird'88's 400 hp 350 motor. The parts are easier to get a hold for the 350, it'll make for a fast car and I pretty much have most of what I need for the build. Pistons and rings are a month back order for the 283 bored over .060. I've found someone willing to trade blocks plus rotating assemblies. I'm just waiting to hear back when the motor is torn down so I can go pick it up.
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  #234 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2008, 03:10 PM
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glad to see
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  #235 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2008, 08:55 AM
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Made the swap this weekend. Traded the 283 for a 350 bored over 30. The engine is a pretty recent rebuild but has collected a little dirt from sitting. I'm debating whether or not to just tear it down, hot tank it and rebuild it or to just clean it up as it and go.







Non Echo en Mexico.
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  #236 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2008, 06:07 AM
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go with it
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  #237 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2008, 06:31 PM
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i say go for it. maybe spray a little wd-40 or any spray lube onto the cylinders one at a time and turn the motor over. This will make the rings push all the dirt to the very top of the cylinder where you can wipe it away. You can repeat the process to get it really clean. thats all I did to my motor. but you may want to change the oil a couple of times when you first get it going (change after the initial starting, after another couple of runs, you get the idea). not to mention mine sat on the ground under a truck cap in the woods for a few years. I also had to hone the cylinders with the pistons in to remove the surface rust. but your short block is in much better shape then mine was so you don't have to do that.
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  #238 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2008, 06:43 PM
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Thanks for the tip! The top of the pistons have a little amount of carbon build but the cylinders still have the crosshatch honing marks. So I'm going the lube the cylinder walls and clean each piston at DTC with some scotch bright and some carb cleaner. Then I'm going to scrub it clean with some warm soapy water, take it to the car wash and power wash it. Right afterwards I'll wipe it down clean, until nothing is visible on the towel, and lube as I go. It's a fairly recent rebuild. I plan to change the oil after the first 20 min break in of the cam and I'll change it a few more times after running it a few hours. Should work fine!
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  #239 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2008, 07:58 PM
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sounds like a plan!
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  #240 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2008, 01:20 AM
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great build and info

enjoying all the pics and info as u go




happen to find this thought you might like
www.wide69.com

bug with a rear engine 500cid

Last edited by joesnextoy; 08-27-2008 at 11:37 PM.
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