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  #271 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2008, 02:58 PM
V8 Super Beetle's Avatar
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If it wont work up front I'll put it in back. I'm just not too excited about all the plumbing.

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  #272 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2008, 02:59 PM
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NO...you cannot cut and weld a sway bar! First off,unless you can use a disc grinder with a cutting wheel,you win't cut a sway with a hack saw. Secondly,the weld won't work on the spring steel because of the 'properties' of spring steel.
Easier to make a shape in 1/2 " rebar or similar and and approach your local spring maker and get them to make you one. It's a simple no brainer for a spring maker.

But you must remember one thing,the "u Shape" in your lower drawings will swing through an Arc when you drive over bumps and both wheels raise up ( speed bumps etc ) and that arc may include the radiator location.
The slanted radiator approach is fine ,and works on lots of cars ( Lamboghini Ferrari to name a few ) I would just enure that you spend some time fitting electric fans with a thermo switch and get some cereal packets and mock up some air ducts so the airflow works into the radiator from under the front. Just get some cheap aluminum sheet and make the ducts to look race car style .

Last edited by mercmad63; 10-17-2008 at 03:10 PM.
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  #273 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2008, 03:31 PM
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That was part of my plan is to make some air ducts whether it goes up front or around back to scoop up passing air and through the rad. Just trying to figure out if it's at all possible to have it up front.

I would like it in back to help balance out the weight, but I don't like the idea of all that extra plumbing.
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  #274 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2008, 09:17 PM
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No need to worry about plumbing,it's only two peices of pipe running under the car to rear that is required. You can run them side by side from the front to rear and use flex hose to connect to your thermo housing and water and the radiator in the rear and ordinary exhuast tube will work fine. because of the track nose on my roadster i will be mounting my radiator in the rear also .
Go to this page and look down at thew truck pictuted,it has the radiator in the rear and you can see how hew hooked up the pipes to do it.
http://images.google.com.au/imgres?i...%3Den%26sa%3DN
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  #275 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2008, 06:57 AM
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My car has the motor mounted in the back and the radiator mounted up front. I have a SBC with some work, the stock 2.8 radiator keeps it under control ok.
You could save some money if you could find a Fiero in a junkyard and pull the coolant pipes. They are SS and have drain plugs built into them.
The biggest issue would be finding some that haven't been bent up by jacking on them.
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  #276 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2008, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Super Beetle
That was part of my plan is to make some air ducts whether it goes up front or around back to scoop up passing air and through the rad. Just trying to figure out if it's at all possible to have it up front.

I would like it in back to help balance out the weight, but I don't like the idea of all that extra plumbing.
It may work up front, did your friends bug use a S10 frame also?
I would mock up the engine first, that will dictate the amount of room left. It is hard to tell from the pictures, it looks like your engine would be sitting farther forward.
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Old 10-18-2008, 08:29 AM
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If your worried about over heating. And you live in Houston Tx. Why don't you get in touch with the guys over at Goober's Garage. There located on the N.W. side of Houston it cant be that far. They have a V-8 bug thats wild running on the street already. They had a write up on it. It like stays between 185 and 200 degrees. They are running a rear aluminum radiator. Because they have less room up front then you. They have a 383 sbc up front with a 8-71 blower set at around 20 lbs of boost. In the write up it told all about it. It was on a dyno machine before the change the pulleys on the blower and it put out a little over 800 h.p.
Gee ! Thats sure enough what I do , living in the same town. I will even give you there email. Hes a member of Hotrodders, but can't think of his nick name. I will try and find the write up for you. Anyway here is there email. goobersgarage@live.com He will send you pictures also.
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  #278 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 02:04 AM
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V/8 Bug.

Don't forget to cap the ends of the frame in the front and I was thinking can you use PVC piping for the plumbing to the rear of the Bug also remember Fiero cars were set up like that I mean with the engine in back and the radiator up front might gt ideas from one. Plus here's a picture so you guys can view.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2Rpb...eature=related
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  #279 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad63
No need to worry about plumbing,it's only two peices of pipe running under the car to rear that is required. You can run them side by side from the front to rear and use flex hose to connect to your thermo housing and water and the radiator in the rear and ordinary exhuast tube will work fine. because of the track nose on my roadster i will be mounting my radiator in the rear also .
Go to this page and look down at thew truck pictuted,it has the radiator in the rear and you can see how hew hooked up the pipes to do it.
http://images.google.com.au/imgres?i...%3Den%26sa%3DN
Thanks for sharing the link. I read about just using exhaust tubing. I'm going to look into this as one of my options.
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  #280 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake_Dragon
My car has the motor mounted in the back and the radiator mounted up front. I have a SBC with some work, the stock 2.8 radiator keeps it under control ok.
You could save some money if you could find a Fiero in a junkyard and pull the coolant pipes. They are SS and have drain plugs built into them.
The biggest issue would be finding some that haven't been bent up by jacking on them.
Thanks for sharing that info. I'll look around and see what I can find cause I'll be visiting the junkyard within the next couple of months for a tranny crossmember and driveshaft.
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  #281 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
It may work up front, did your friends bug use a S10 frame also?
I would mock up the engine first, that will dictate the amount of room left. It is hard to tell from the pictures, it looks like your engine would be sitting farther forward.
His has a custom tube frame. I think you're right, the engine will be forward a little further so my room is limited.
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  #282 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynot
If your worried about over heating. And you live in Houston Tx. Why don't you get in touch with the guys over at Goober's Garage. There located on the N.W. side of Houston it cant be that far. They have a V-8 bug thats wild running on the street already. They had a write up on it. It like stays between 185 and 200 degrees. They are running a rear aluminum radiator. Because they have less room up front then you. They have a 383 sbc up front with a 8-71 blower set at around 20 lbs of boost. In the write up it told all about it. It was on a dyno machine before the change the pulleys on the blower and it put out a little over 800 h.p.
Gee ! Thats sure enough what I do , living in the same town. I will even give you there email. Hes a member of Hotrodders, but can't think of his nick name. I will try and find the write up for you. Anyway here is there email. goobersgarage@live.com He will send you pictures also.
Thanks, I didn't know that! Sounds like an awesome build. I'll contact him and see what he did. Maybe even drop by one day to check it out.
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  #283 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMCTRUCKS
Don't forget to cap the ends of the frame in the front and I was thinking can you use PVC piping for the plumbing to the rear of the Bug also remember Fiero cars were set up like that I mean with the engine in back and the radiator up front might gt ideas from one. Plus here's a picture so you guys can view.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2Rpb...eature=related
Thanks GMC! I do plan to cap the front of the frame. I'm going to take care of that once I lift the body back up. I plan to take the frame apart once it get the fenders done. I'll then flip the frame over and finish up the underside welding.

PVC would be easier and cheaper, but would it work? Would I need to use Sch. 80 instead of 40?
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  #284 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 10:55 AM
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A little update.

Finished the metal work on the driver side fender and got down the first layer of bondo.









I started sanding the passenger fender with some 60 grit. Seemed like it took forever to knock down the bondo. I ran out of time before I could make any real sanding progress, but I'll need to get some 40 grit to move things along quicker.
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  #285 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2008, 12:13 PM
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You should be using a cheeze grader or body file. it will work fast to remove body. Looks like you not applying the body with the better method. should have done an additional sweap along the arc of the fender to smooth it better. Lots of people tend to slap the bondo all on in one shot but there just going to end up sand it back off where as they could have created less work by apllying it the right way
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