I'm in the process of building a V8 Bug out of my 1973 VW Super Beetle. I know this is possible because it's been done before. I'm on the v8bugs.com forum where you can find a handle full of example and different ways to accomplish this, but I still have questions. There's a lot more traffic here so hopefully I can get some help. I'm pretty much a beginner hot rodder that's a DYI kinda guy.
I'm looking into building a custom 2"x3" tube chassis for my build. I've took some measurements from my bug and designed a chassis in Illustrator to size. I'm trying to design the frame so it'll use the stock suspension up front.
I currently have a 283 SBC and th350 to put into the bug, but at the moment the motor is the block, with pistons and all, and heads. The motor is at my old mans (he works nights) so I don't have access to measure the motor off for mounting and what not.
Could anyone tell me, ballpark figure, about how much distance I'll need from each frame rail to fit the engine with mounts and shorty headers?
Here's my frame design, the distance between each frame rail is exactly 27.5". Also I intend on mounting the motor to the crossmembers that hold in the front control arms / suspension. Is this enough distance? Could I bring the distance between the two main frame rails closer? How should I mount the engine to the cross member with then motor mounts I have (see picture below)?
Here's some pics of my beetle and progress. I'm still working on cutting out the trunk!
GMC - Send me a PM and let me know how much you want for the MSD box. I appreciate it! I'll keep you posted once it's ready for it's first run at the track. :thumbup:
MRGM - I sure did. I used Clevite 77 assembly lube. The thick red stuff. I lubed all the bearings real good, and anything that was bare metal on bare metal (push rod ends, lifter cups, valve tips, rocker balls, fuel pump rod, etc.). I also primed the entire system and rotated the crank a little at a time. So it'll be good for break-in.
Well, I got the bug home and finally got everything out of the garage. I'm finally out of the apt complex. I threw away quite a bit of stuff (vent windows, spare rotors / spindles, s10 steering linkage, power steering box, etc.) because I ran out of time and space even though I have a two car garage. The fiancé likes to park her car in the garage.
Here's a couple pics of us moving it and securing her down. That's my old man, the bald guy is my half uncle, and the boy is his son.
Thanks for the links Polara426. I've found a alt mount that'll work out great.
The project is coming along well but a little slow at the moment until I can get my hands on a transmission. I'm searching for a th350. I've found some that I'm going to take a look at this weekend. Hopefully I wont come back empty handed. Once I get the tranny I'm going to rebuild it. So that should keep me busy for a few weekends.
I'm thinking about buying a roll cage once I get paid tomorrow as well. So that will keep me busy for a couple weekends too.
I bought a new set of motor mounts. I had some 4x4 s10 v8 mounts (because I originally was going to get a 4x4 frame, was a good deal) and the 4x4 mounts worked but they offset the engine to the passenger side making the fuel pump sit on the frame rail. So I pulled the motor, installed the 2wd mounts, and put her back in.
The engine sits a little lower than it did with the 4x4 mounts. Not much lower though.
Also, this past weekend I went to Pick A Part, because they had a 50% off labor day sale, and picked up a tranny crossmember. I looked for a tranny but they were all pulled and gone. I sanded blasted the crossmember here at work and it's ready for some paint.
That's about it for now. Hopefully I'll have a cage and tranny to keep me busy the next few weeks. I'll keep you posted.
I went to Pick A Part, because they had a 50% off labor day sale, and picked up a tranny crossmember. I looked for a tranny but they were all pulled and gone. I sanded blasted the crossmember here at work and it's ready for some paint.
Painted the transmission crossmember.
Flushed and washed the radiator. Then I gave it a light coat of black engine enamel. I was going to polish the brass but the way I plan to mount it and set up my fan shroud my efforts wouldn't have been worth it cause it would be hidden.
I used almost a full quart of Master Series in my gas tank to seal off all the garbage in the tank. Seems to have worked cause I don't hear crap rolling around in there anymore.
I also painted and put the gas tank in place. I just need to get some bolts to permanently hold her down.
Last but not least, I picked up a used good th350 for $100. Getting her ready for a rebuild which I'll attempt myself. What little fluid I poured out looked really clean.
Almost forgot, I'm ordering my roll cage today so I'll have tranny rebuild and roll cage pics coming in the next few weeks.
I started the rebuild of my th350 tranny by starting disassembling it last night. I almost got it completely tore down but I'm lacking a couple of tools to do so. One of which I ordered, a clutch spring compressor, and the other is snap ring pliers which I'll just buy.
I've never rebuilt a transmission before but this thing is a piece of cake to take a part with the help of a Ron Sessions book. Shouldn't be too bad to put back together either. On another note, this tranny is really clean inside and has very little signs of wear on the clutches, bushings, and trust washers. I had thought about just buttoning it back up with new seals and gaskets, and a good case cleaning but I want to make it more durable by adding an extra clutch and a hardened sprag as well as give it stiffer shift with a shift kit and adjustable modulator.
Pan off. See, clean.
My low buck oil pump puller. A $7 pry bar and two 3/8"x16 bolts threaded in 4 complete turns. Worked like a charm.
This is about as far as I got. I couldn't remove the nickel sized snap ring that holds in the gear / shell and you can see in the next picture the valve body is disassembled.
More to come as I finish tear down, have the case hot tanked, clean the hard parts, and reassemble.
My cage came in moments ago. I'm going to see if I can't get her tacked in this weekend. Any tips on notching the tubes? Not all of them cam with notches. Thanks.
My cage came in moments ago. I'm going to see if I can't get her tacked in this weekend. Any tips on notching the tubes? Not all of them cam with notches. Thanks.
Wrap a piece of paper around one of the notched ones and make a template.
Transfer to the one needed to notch and hog out as much as you can with a zip cut.
Use a carbide burr to finish.
I spent most of all Sunday trying to get my cage assembled. It's going to take longer than I thought, but It's getting there.
I trimmed and notched about half of the bars. I did quite a bit of thinking and just figuring out exactly how I want this thing to fit. Now it's just making it happen.
The main hoop didn't exactly go where I originally wanted it to so I'll be welding it into the body and the rest will be welded to the frame. I plan to gusset the cage to the body in various places just to stiffen the body up and so the cage and body become one unit that bolts to the frame.
It doesn't look like I got much done, but It's kinda tough do this solo.
The die grinder worked great using the edge of disk to cut. So I got the main hoop and bar tacked.
Thanks, me too. I still have lots to do, but It's getting closer to being finished. Hopefully I'll have it finished before the end of next year. :thumbup:
You did de-burr and measure the diameter and wall thickness with your dial caliper tips didn't you?
ROLLBAR 1 3/4" x 0.118" mild steel or 0.083" chromoly.
ROLLCAGE 1 5/8" x 0.118" mild steel or 0.083" chromoly.
These dimensions are MINIMUMS. Can be larger/thicker.
You did de-burr and measure the diameter and wall thickness with your dial caliper tips didn't you?
ROLLBAR 1 3/4" x 0.118" mild steel or 0.083" chromoly.
ROLLCAGE 1 5/8" x 0.118" mild steel or 0.083" chromoly.
These dimensions are MINIMUMS. Can be larger/thicker.
Hey Tech. I haven't measured the tubing with a dial caliper. I haven't even thought about it because the company I bought my roll cage from is very reputable. I bought the cage from S&W Race Cars. The wall thickness, to the naked eye, appears fairly thick. Here's the cage I bought.
Hey Tech. I haven't measured the tubing with a dial caliper. I haven't even thought about it because the company I bought my roll cage from is very reputable. I bought the cage from S&W Race Cars. The wall thickness, to the naked eye, appears fairly thick. Here's the cage I bought.
I have been working on the cage all week. Everyday for a couple hours at a time and I'm almost finished. I just have to cut and fit the side / door bars.
I've had a slight change of heart. I decided to just go ahead and weld the cage and body to the frame and to do away with the idea of being able to unbolt the body and cage so I can lift it off, whenever.
Although I'm sure this cage is for a standard beetle, the cage fit pretty well. I wish I could have the dash bar closer to the dash / further away from the steering wheel, but there is plenty of clearance although it doesn't appear to be that way in the pic.
The roof hoop fit up pretty snug to the roof.
The plates did come in handy though. I was able to weld the lateral bar a little further out. Right about a 3/16 gusset I had welded in for strength.
I should have the cage finished and all welded up by the end of the week.
On a side note, my hardened sprag and spring compressor tool came in. I'll finish tearing down the transmission after I'm finished with the cage so I'm not getting junk in it.
I finished the cage this weekend. I still need to weld in the seat belt tabs but that'll have to come later. I might do a couple gussets too for strength. Still debating that one.
I did have to cut out a section of the b-pillar and the roof to fully weld up the cage. So I'll have to weld those sections back in. Work, work, work, but fun nonetheless.
I'm working on tearing the tranny down and I'm hoping to have it rebuilt within the next two weeks. Also, I need to work on making mounts for the radiator.
I'm in the process of building a V8 Bug out of my 1973 VW Super Beetle. I know this is possible because it's been done before. I'm on the v8bugs.com forum where you can find a handle full of example and different ways to accomplish this, but I still have questions. There's a lot more traffic here so hopefully I can get some help. I'm pretty much a beginner hot rodder that's a DYI kinda guy.
I'm looking into building a custom 2"x3" tube chassis for my build. I've took some measurements from my bug and designed a chassis in Illustrator to size. I'm trying to design the frame so it'll use the stock suspension up front.
I currently have a 283 SBC and th350 to put into the bug, but at the moment the motor is the block, with pistons and all, and heads. The motor is at my old mans (he works nights) so I don't have access to measure the motor off for mounting and what not.
I just finished reading this entire thread! Thought it was interesting how plans change. The tube chassis became a Chevvy chassis....the 283 was replaced by a 350 (now 383) and the th350 you thought you had...you didn't. Looks like the only part of the plan that remains is the bug. Anyway, fantastic job and very interesting read. Thanks for sharing.
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