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  #376 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2009, 11:27 AM
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Well Im going with the Suzuki Samurai. They are 2 inches wide and 38 inches in length. The Samurai weights 2923LB and the rear is Axle weight is 1675. I think is will be a good rate for the bug and I got a set on e-bay for 40. Ill let you know how they fit when I get them.

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  #377 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2009, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by marnell79
Well Im going with the Suzuki Samurai. They are 2 inches wide and 38 inches in length. The Samurai weights 2923LB and the rear is Axle weight is 1675. I think is will be a good rate for the bug and I got a set on e-bay for 40. Ill let you know how they fit when I get them.
Sounds perfect! Keep me posted.
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  #378 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 11:33 AM
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Are you going to use the S10 rear end? I think i found my engine. A 1970 Chrysler 383 with a 727 trans.
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  #379 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marnell79
Are you going to use the S10 rear end? I think i found my engine. A 1970 Chrysler 383 with a 727 trans.
Yeah, the s10 rear will hold up as long as you don't use slicks, it'll be fine. A good direct replacement is the ford explorer 8.8. Cool, something different.
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  #380 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 02:42 PM
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buggmann

hey how is it going with the car
i would like to see it
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  #381 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2009, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by buggmann
hey how is it going with the car
i would like to see it
It's getting there. You want to see it in person? Sure, I'm in Houston.
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  #382 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2009, 08:58 AM
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OK, so by this weekend I had "Johnny 5" disassembled and the frame and suspension parts were ready for a good wash. I called up a couple friends to see if they could help, but as usual they were busy and I had to figure out a way to do it solo if I wanted to get anything done.

First I had to widen the distance of the center blocks so the frame could slide out which required some thinking. I need to put the good old 2x3 boards under the car again to keep the body suspended. I lifted one corner at a time and slid a couple small cut pieces of wood under the body. This allowed me to slide the lumber under the body and so I could move the stack of center blocks out. Needless to say this was a tedious process, but I got it done safely.

Next, I had to find a way to load a 400-500 lb car frame in the back of my truck solo as well. I ran a board under the back of the frame, put my floor jack under the board and jack it up so the rear could roll. While crouching I had to lift the frame "horns" and slowly pull the frame out. Wasn't too bad, just required some thinking.

Then I had to get it in the bed of the truck. I lifted the front of the frame into the truck and pull it in just enough to get past the lower front suspension arm mounting points so nothing was dragging. I call the jack again, put it under the front cross member so it could roll, and I lifted the front of the frame and rolled the whole thing forward. Pain in the arse, but I got it done. The drive to the car wash was right down the street so I didn't have to go too far.




So as I was power washing the frame I need to flip the frame over so I could give the underbelly a good wash. As I rolled the frame on it's side while still in my truck bed the frame got away from me and landed on the side of my truck bed. Put a nice soft ball dint in the side, it pounded the corner right above my right rear light taking off a section of paint about the size of a golf ball, and it put many scratches in the paint. All I could do was get pissed for a moment and say oh well.

Here's the frame upside down after all that mess.




So I again had to flip it over with about as much luck as the first try and took the washed frame and parts home. Now it was time to get the frame out and back into the garage, but this time upside down so I can finish up and redo some over head welds that didn't turn out so great. I had to once again figure out how to flip the frame and get it under the car without dragging it. My creeper helped out a lot cause the gas tank mount sat on it nicely lifting the rear up. So the whole thing rolled under the car without hardly any problems. One of my neighbors happened to pull up while this was going on and he was more of a headache than any help. I know they guy was worried about my well being but he began to sound like my mother, LOL!




I know it doesn't seem like I got a whole lot accomplished, but I did manage to get all that done solo. I also, ground away all the bad looking over head welds and began welding. Hopefully this week I can finish welding, get some parts sand blasted and move closer to getting the frame in paint.

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  #383 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 03:48 PM
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I got my engine and trans Its a 1970 383 Chrysler big block with a 727 trans I picked it up for 300 and started to fit my body to the fame and am waiting to cut the frame until my samurai leaf springs come in and are installed. I already have the new bushings. I also ordered new motor mounts so i can start fitting the engine which looks to me 28 inches wide. the 727 trans is super short so i think my drive shaft will be really short. I am further along than this now the front frame is cut as well as the heater channels. Its sitting just about right in the front now.
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  #384 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marnell79
I got my engine and trans Its a 1970 383 Chrysler big block with a 727 trans I picked it up for 300 and started to fit my body to the fame and am waiting to cut the frame until my samurai leaf springs come in and are installed. I already have the new bushings. I also ordered new motor mounts so i can start fitting the engine which looks to me 28 inches wide. the 727 trans is super short so i think my drive shaft will be really short. I am further along than this now the front frame is cut as well as the heater channels. Its sitting just about right in the front now.
Awesome! I'm glad to see you're making progress. You might want to start thinking about how you're going to cut the frame. Look through my thread and you can kind of gauge by the pictures how much you'll need to cut off the front and rear, but like you mentioned you'll need the springs to start on the rear and shortening the wheelbase.

Main thing is you'll want to figure out where you're going to make your cut to shorten the wheelbase. Easiest way is to grind away the factory welds right after the point where the frame bows out. Once you grind away the welds you can pull the two halfs apart. Then cut away as much metal from the frame rails as needed to get the 94.5" wheelbase.




Member custom interiors did the same. See this thread.

frame welding
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  #385 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2009, 04:58 PM
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Thats what i was planning on doing. Cutting it at the factory welds. With the shorter leaf springs i think i will only have to take out about 8 inches but will wee.
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  #386 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2009, 02:35 PM
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I was installing the rear leaf springs today when it came to me. In stead of shortening the frame I am going to grind out the factory rivets the hold on the front leaf spring brackets and the shock brackets and move them forward, which looks to be about 6 inches since i am using the much shorter springs. Then I will make the rear mounts. Cut off the rear section of the frame that will not be needed and perform a C notch on the frame for the suspension to travel in. This should avoid cutting the fame in the middle. What do you think?
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  #387 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2009, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marnell79
I was installing the rear leaf springs today when it came to me. In stead of shortening the frame I am going to grind out the factory rivets the hold on the front leaf spring brackets and the shock brackets and move them forward, which looks to be about 6 inches since i am using the much shorter springs. Then I will make the rear mounts. Cut off the rear section of the frame that will not be needed and perform a C notch on the frame for the suspension to travel in. This should avoid cutting the fame in the middle. What do you think?
Yeah, that'll work. Use you stock rear perch mounts too. I had thought about doing just that at one point but couldn't cause the frame I purchased was a extended cab which has a 122" wheelbase.

The only thing about doing it that way is you'll be change the pinion angle of the rear differential, but it's probably changing the angle of it just using different springs. So you'll have to make some sort of blocks to adjust the pinion angle within about 3º of the pinion angle of the transmission. Other wise your drive line will vibrate like crazy at higher speeds.

On the plus side, you should be able to have enough room for the back seat if you mount the bottom of the body flush with the top of the frame. If you do that you'll probably need to lower the chassis using blocks and or springs / lowering spindles. The S truck frame sit kinda high.

Go for it, it's probably a lot less work doing it that way.

I have to move my front leaf mounts forward 1.5" and move the rear back on the leafs back 1.5" because my shackle are about a .25" away from the rear fenders. I mounted the body of my bug so that way the bottom of the body is flush with the bottom of the frame.

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  #388 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2009, 02:58 PM
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Thanks, I think I will give it a shot, It seems better and easier to chop off the part of the frame that is not boxed ie. the rear section. I was thinking of changing the rear end out for the explore, I think my engine option will split the s-10 rear end so i will have to play with the pinion angle anyway. Ill post more pics when i can and thanks for the info.
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  #389 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2009, 04:59 AM
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V/8 Bug

I love the way the bug is coming out it's going to be well worth it once it's done and I personally get to see it when he takes it to Bay town race track. I was also thinking that maybe some seats from an older 88 or so RX7 will fit good since there small and there is plenty around junk yards here in Houston. I have a friend on mine that has a old school 327 on a engine stand sitting in his back yard it hurts me knowing that it's back there it's wrapped in plastic but it's going to go bad might think of buying it for the BUG. I also found this place that sprays bed liners cheap im going to post it for you maybe can do the underside, floor and so on with it tell the guy that you will mention his company when you display it at up coming car shows he might do the work for FREE.
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1023715180.html
Be good! RJ

PS-My son might have a good hook up on the seats PM when you get there. Also did you know that the rearends on some RX7 are posi again my son knows about that as well he might have one. I'm just wanting to help a home town build so that we can get it going.
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  #390 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marnell79
Thanks, I think I will give it a shot, It seems better and easier to chop off the part of the frame that is not boxed ie. the rear section. I was thinking of changing the rear end out for the explore, I think my engine option will split the s-10 rear end so i will have to play with the pinion angle anyway. Ill post more pics when i can and thanks for the info.
Cool, I was thinking about buying an explorer rear this weekend but I think I'm going to just hold off and see how the stock rear holds up. I researched a little more and found out mine is a 7.625" and not a 7.5". So it's stronger than a 7.5" rear. On JTR the say:



"The vehicle is shown at the top of this page going through the Burn-Off Test™ (a registered trademark of JTR). It basically consists of revving up the engine, dumping the clutch and flooring the gas pedal (an MSD Soft Touch® rev limiter makes this test much safer by keeping the engine speed within safe limits). As you can see, the stock 7-1/2" rear-end (fitted with an Auburn limited slip differential) is up to the task. 1988 and newer 4.3 S-Trucks are equipped with even stronger 7-5/8" rear-ends and stronger axles. All 1993 S-Trucks have the 7-5/8" rear-ends.

The stock 7-1/2" S-Truck rear-end will handle a lot of power and is sufficient for most V8 conversions, but if you are running a "built" V-8, or have tall or sticky tires, you will need the 7-5/8" rear end, or a custom built rear-end. Incidentally, the V-8 Camaro use the same basic differential case as the S-Truck, as do 1978-1987 V-8 El Caminos and Monte Carlos. In fact, the V-8 El Caminos and Monte Carlos only came equipped with the 7-1/2" ring gears and the smaller axles."

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