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  #406 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2009, 02:34 PM
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What were you going to use for a brake master cylinder? I was thinking of using one for a hot rod that mounts under the floor to the frame rail.

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  #407 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2009, 02:51 PM
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VW makes it, Chevy shakes it..
 
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I was thinking of getting something similar. I've been looking at possibly getting this setup and matching gas pedal assembly.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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  #408 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2009, 02:58 PM
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No power brakes?
Like

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110299984652
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  #409 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2009, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marnell79
That's a cool setup. I'm might go with power brakes. Still plenty of time to think about it.
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  #410 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2009, 10:53 AM
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Update...

Over the past couple of weeks I've been taking care of the underside welding and have finally finished. Not much to really photograph change wise. Hopefully this weekend I'll get the chance to pull the frame out from under the car, clean up the floor, and begin painting.

I also received some more parts and tools that I ordered. Cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings, rear main seal, piston rings, valve spring compressor tool, blocks plugs, a set of cleaning brushes, etc.

Also, I was able to find the factory stamped suffix codes on the front passenger pad of the block. Anyone know what these numbers mean?

12S231437
F 0313OKB


Last but not least I got the piston parts numbers off the top of the pistons.

TRW L3022F
.030 (which I already knew)

I was able to find out the specs on these pistons:

L=Forged in the part number
Compression height is 1.535.
Pin height is 0.927
Ring sizes are 5/64 5/64 3/16


All I've got for now. More to come hopefully soon.
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  #411 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2009, 01:42 PM
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Sounds Good. Did you have to re-enforce the heater channels? Did you build your flour as welded to the bug or frame. I got my for 8.8 rear end installed and the tires only stick out about a 1 past the fenders. I think i will leave it i kind of like to look. Finally the engine and trans are also mounted and I am finishing up the rear by making the frame mount for the rear leafs. Then I was going to re-enforce the heater channels with 1.25 Box Steel and built my floor off of.
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  #412 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2009, 02:25 PM
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Sounds like you've made a lot of good progress. That's great that the wheels only stick out an inch. Mine stuck out about an inch before I widened the fenders. It didn't look too bad. It actually made it look kind of tough but I want the fenders to cover the wheels so I can drop it as low as possible.



As for the heater channels go, I will box them off where I cut them so the body could drop around the frame. The way I did mine was I welded some angle iron mounts rails for the body to bolt up to.





And I used angle iron for the floor / seat support which was also welded to the frame.




Last, but not least I used some angle iron for the gas tank mount which is also functioning as a rear body mount which will bolt to the former firewall, or what's left of it.



Angle iron is free here at work. Nothing super fancy, but serves it's purpose. Forgot to mention the 1/8" x 6" x 6" plates I welded to the frame which will sandwich the flooring I'm going to build and that'll act as some more body mounts. Plates are so I can weld the roll bar / cage to them and still be able to remove the body.




Basically I want the body to be able to unbolt just like the body originally could be unbolted from its pan. I haven't built the flooring / firewall yet cause I still need to rebuild the motor and trans, and then install them so I can make the floor / firewall. All which is being held up by the finishing of the frame.

The reason I'm doing it this way is cause my limited space in a one car garage apartment. I only want to have to install the drive train once. The flooring and firewall will be a piece of cake though.
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  #413 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2009, 02:30 PM
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So your floor will be part of the frame? I was going to make mine part of the body and remove with the body. I also get free angle iron from work. thanks
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  #414 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2009, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marnell79
So your floor will be part of the frame? I was going to make mine part of the body and remove with the body. I also get free angle iron from work. thanks
Sorry for the confusion. The flooring and firewall will all be welded to the body.
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  #415 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2009, 02:37 PM
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ok, thanks
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  #416 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2009, 03:08 PM
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Are you going to use rubber mounts to attach you body or solid bolt it?
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  #417 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2009, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marnell79
Are you going to use rubber mounts to attach you body or solid bolt it?
Solid bolt. Hows progress coming?
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  #418 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2009, 11:52 AM
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Good I Re-enforced my heater channels with 1.25 inch box steel and am in the process of figuring out the mounting and floor.
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  #419 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2009, 11:40 PM
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V/8 Bugs

Keep them post coming im loving it. Good luck to both you guys look what I found today. My brother is looking into buying a 1969 VW Van for $5000.00 dollars he already has a 1963 VW Bug I think it's that year it even has a sun roof and it's all OEM.
Good luck! RJ

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Free-...1%7C240%3A1308

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-...1%7C240%3A1308
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  #420 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2009, 11:52 PM
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Get ideas from this sleeper.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V8-OV...1%7C240%3A1308
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