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  #496 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRGM
looks good. looks like it fit snuggly
Thanks MRGM. It is. So much so that I'm having to cut out part of the body to fully weld up the cage.

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  #497 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 08:46 AM
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I finished the cage this weekend. I still need to weld in the seat belt tabs but that'll have to come later. I might do a couple gussets too for strength. Still debating that one.

I did have to cut out a section of the b-pillar and the roof to fully weld up the cage. So I'll have to weld those sections back in. Work, work, work, but fun nonetheless.
















I'm working on tearing the tranny down and I'm hoping to have it rebuilt within the next two weeks. Also, I need to work on making mounts for the radiator.
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  #498 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 06:38 PM
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Looking good.

Your welds look good too... most beginer welders (assuming you are a beginer) have a hard time welding tubing.
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  #499 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2009, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81Meano
Looking good.

Your welds look good too... most beginer welders (assuming you are a beginer) have a hard time welding tubing.
Thanks. I consider myself a beginner, somewhat, because I pretty much learned how making this project come to life.
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  #500 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2009, 11:18 AM
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well congrats, and keep up the good work. looks like things are coming together nicely.
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:55 AM
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[QUOTE=V8 Super Beetle]Hello all!

I'm in the process of building a V8 Bug out of my 1973 VW Super Beetle. I know this is possible because it's been done before. I'm on the v8bugs.com forum where you can find a handle full of example and different ways to accomplish this, but I still have questions. There's a lot more traffic here so hopefully I can get some help. I'm pretty much a beginner hot rodder that's a DYI kinda guy.

I'm looking into building a custom 2"x3" tube chassis for my build. I've took some measurements from my bug and designed a chassis in Illustrator to size. I'm trying to design the frame so it'll use the stock suspension up front.

I currently have a 283 SBC and th350 to put into the bug, but at the moment the motor is the block, with pistons and all, and heads. The motor is at my old mans (he works nights) so I don't have access to measure the motor off for mounting and what not.

I just finished reading this entire thread! Thought it was interesting how plans change. The tube chassis became a Chevvy chassis....the 283 was replaced by a 350 (now 383) and the th350 you thought you had...you didn't. Looks like the only part of the plan that remains is the bug. Anyway, fantastic job and very interesting read. Thanks for sharing.
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  #502 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2009, 09:06 AM
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Wow, most people, I think, don't catch onto that. Original plans were a 2"x3" tube chassis, a 283, and a th350. As you said it's amazing how the plans have changed. The car now has a 383, S10 chassis, and I had to buy a th350.

I would've stuck with the 283 but it had 13:1 pop up pistons and that just wouldn't work with the new vortec heads I bought. Plus it would have cost about the same to build a 383 vs a 283. That's 100 more ci I gained.

The reason why I went from tube chassis to S10 frame was cost, tools, and skills. I didn't have the tools to properly fabricate a tube chassis and there are a lot more welds involved. When I began I wasn't quite so sure about my welding abilities. I am now though. That and I couldn't pass up such a great deal on a S10 chassis. $150 for a rolling chassis. It needing rebuilding but that wasn't too bad.

And the th350 tranny my dad had for me was given to my uncle because he needed it sooner than I did.

Thanks for reading my thread. I'll have more soon.
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  #503 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2009, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Super Beetle
When I began I wasn't quite so sure about my welding abilities. I am now though. :
Did I miss something or did you do all the welding (including bodywork) with a 110V stick welder? Most builders now seem to feel that you must have a MIG or even a TIG to do any kind of welding, esp. on sheet metal. How do you keep from blowing through on the thin stuff?
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  #504 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2009, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MScott
Did I miss something or did you do all the welding (including bodywork) with a 110V stick welder? Most builders now seem to feel that you must have a MIG or even a TIG to do any kind of welding, esp. on sheet metal. How do you keep from blowing through on the thin stuff?
Good eye. I did the frame work, about 95% of it, with a 110v stick welder. I also widened the fenders with the stick welder. I turned the amps way down and used 1/16 6013 rods. It worked OK but it was really hard to keep an arc at such low amps not to mention keeping the rod from sticking. It was very time consuming too.

As of now I have a MIG welder. I borrowed one from my bro, after I did the fenders because I didn't know he had one, it crapped out, and I recently bought a new MIG welder. a Lincoln 125 Pro Core. Works like a charm even on heavy stuff using flux.

If you're on a budget I would suggest the 110v stick welder. You can do both heavier, 3-16 - 1/4, metal and thin stuff using small rods. It's tough doing sheet though but it made me a better welder.
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  #505 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2009, 11:20 AM
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Not a whole lot of progress was made this weekend, but some.

I got the tranny completely taken apart and then found that the direct clutch piston spring, in the valve body, was broken. Probably the reason why the tranny was taken out of the car. It is a 5 clutch, heavy duty, th350, so that's good.

I decided just to go ahead and take the tranny to a professional shop because they could get it put together quicker, I don't have much "clean room" where I can assemble the tranny, and I get a 6 month warranty with the guys who did the work, that is if I can get it all going with six months time. Haha.


They did a really nice job and they were very informative about the parts I had and what to look out for. Basically the kit I had was a stock rebuilder kit repacked. Which is ok for my purposes. I dropped off the tranny Sat morning and they had it ready Monday after work.




I installed the tranny crossmember.




The tranny is ready to go in. I'm thinking I'll put the motor, hook the tranny up, and then install it as a unit...? I could just have someone help me pull it through the door rather than remove the engine. Hmmm...dunno which was would be easiest. Either way it wont be as bad as installing it in a car with a firewall and floor.

Also, I have a new radiator, fan, mounting hardware, etc. on their way. I bought a 22"w x 19"h aluminum radiator. I'm pretty sure I figured out a way to put my radiator up front. It'll be mounted low but wont be sticking out of the bottom of the body. Hopefully. The only way I see this working is I'll have to use a rack and pinion setup, which I'll have to buy.

Any advice on which rack to use for the S10 frame?
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  #506 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2009, 03:49 PM
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Use extreme caution in grafting a r&p from another production auto or truck. You can get into trouble in a hurry with bump steer and have to throw out everything you just did to start over. If you want it right from the beginning, order up a kit from Unisteer. It is pricey at over $1000, but the steering will be right from the git-go.

Might be cheaper to keep the worm/sector steering and re-think the radiator. It would not be beyond your capabilities to mount the radiator in the rear and run thin-wall tubing to and from the motor. I might even be tempted to use PVC.
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  #507 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2009, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Use extreme caution in grafting a r&p from another production auto or truck. You can get into trouble in a hurry with bump steer and have to throw out everything you just did to start over. If you want it right from the beginning, order up a kit from Unisteer. It is pricey at over $1000, but the steering will be right from the git-go.

Might be cheaper to keep the worm/sector steering and re-think the radiator. It would not be beyond your capabilities to mount the radiator in the rear and run thin-wall tubing to and from the motor. I might even be tempted to use PVC.
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to consider other options so I can have a front mounted radiator just to keep it simple. I originally planed to put it in the back but I just might be able to get it up front. The only problem is the steering box is in the way.

With the radiator I have now (22"W x 29"H x 3"D) I can set it up front without the steering box. I ordered a 22"W x 19"H x 2.25" rad and I'm going to see if I can't make it work with the steering box in place. I might have some room to offset it away from the box.

I'd rather mount the radiator in back than have steering issues. Would moving the steering box back create problems? I know I'd have to have a shorter steering arm for the box. I'm guessing that would reduce the amount I could turn the wheels?

Thanks for the help.
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  #508 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2009, 07:20 AM
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[QUOTE=V8 Super Beetle The only way I see this working is I'll have to use a rack and pinion setup, which I'll have to buy.

Any advice on which rack to use for the S10 frame?[/QUOTE]

Here is a thread on installing a R & P in an S10: http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32961
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  #509 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2009, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MScott
Here is a thread on installing a R & P in an S10: http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32961
Thanks for the link to the thread!
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  #510 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:28 AM
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Another quicky update. I got the transmission installed last night. Torque converter seated all the way down and it spins freely with the bell housing completely bolted up. Now I just need to crawl under the car and bolt the converter to the flex plate.

Believe it or not, I got the tranny in all by myself. I lifted it and sat it on my floor supports, got out a jack with a block of wood, raised the jack, instead the converter (after a quart of ATF), slid the tranny forward until it sat down on the jack / wood, then roll the tranny forward and mated them up. Easier said than done, but it worked.


Sorry, the night shots on my camera phone suck.



I still need to adjust the crossmember. It needs to go in the most forward mount holes so it'll bolt up.
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