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  #541 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2009, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furytom
I was thinking the same think. The air is going the wrong way in that picture!
I like the Idea of the horizontal radiator and using the factory air outlets.
I just dont think air flowing top to bottom will work since the hot air is trying to get up anyway plus the shape of the body should create a nice draft to help sucking the hot air out. Just my opinion.

Tomi
Hey Tomi, thanks for your feedback. I think that the air would flow like the picture and here's my thinking as to why it would.

Here are some pictures below of the original air cooled setup.




You'll notice a dog house which has a fan inside that's connected to the back of the alternator. The engine has tin that completely seals the upper portion of the engine off from the hot lower portion. At the back of the dog house is the fan that sucks in cool air. The tin work is made so it blows the cool air down on the heads and the hot air exits out from under the car. So basically I'll be creating the same effect but with a radiator in place of the engine.








That's why the deck lid stand offs help pull more cool air into the compartment. Right?

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  #542 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2009, 01:29 PM
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air flow

you are correct on the airflow top to bottom if you duct from the bottom up it will not work i tried it on a 4x4 beetle and it was way higher off the ground the problem is that it will not let air out worked ok at low speed and off road but on the highway ran very warm drove me nuts then out of dispare we turned the fan around and removed the air duct problem solved
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  #543 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2009, 02:57 PM
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I Would Be More Inclined To Listen To Someone That Has The Experience W/ The Setup. - That Said I'd Mount It Horizontally Using A Blow Through (down) Fan Spaced Approx. 2-4 Inches Away W/ Some Good Duct Work In Order To Flow As Much Air As Possible Through As Much Radiator As Possible.

My Initial Opinion Was That The "downflow" Would Not Work Since The "ram" Effect You Were Thinking Of Is Not Going To Happen Due To The Shape Of The Car. I Was Not Considering The Effect Of Air Below The Car And How That May Cause An Equalization In The Pressure On Each Side Of The Cooling Fan.

The Down-flow Will Still Need An Angled Outlet Duct Facing Rearward In Order To Prevent Pressure Equalization. (i.e.... If The Fan Is Blowing The Same Amount Of Pressure That The Passing Air Is Creating As A Low Pressure Zone, You Will Have No Air Flow Across The Radiator ... Just An Equalization Of Pressure)

Although I Think Either Direction Is Probable Given The Correct Duct Arrangement. If You "up-flow" The System You Will Want A Wedge Shape Inlet Duct W/ A Steep Base (like A Camaro/corvette) Although You Will Be Prone To Sucking Up Road Trash.
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  #544 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2009, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Super Beetle
Thanks for looking out. I thought it was the better way too. I did some posting on some vw sites and it was brought to my attention that the vents in the back of the car are in a low pressure area and they're there to draw in air to cool the air cooled engine. Must work well enough to actually cool and engine.

It was also brought to my attention that an opposite effect might go on doing the scoop from under the car. I put together an illustration how I'm guessing it would work. I'm not an expert at aerodynamics, but it seems to make sense. I do watch Discovery channel from time to time. Nothing is set in stone at this point which is why I'm asking for feedback to come up with the best possible solution.




On a side note, it must work well for this car that's putting out more hp than mine will.

http://www.scottstreetrods.com/patrioticVW.htm

I would think the air does a little different then this picture, But... it's your car..good luck..
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  #545 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2009, 09:35 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys!

I got some progress done this weekend. Not as much as I would've liked. I had my 10 year high school reunion on Friday night and I had a gig the following night. I was nursing a hangover most of the weekend. Ugh...good fun though.

Any who, here were are. Got the subframe for the radiator made.




Here you can see how the rad bolts in. Fairly simple.






I then welded it into the body. Notice the penetration on the rear clip.




I then made a template for the ductwork? Basically it'll keep the hot air from recirculating with the cold air. Next I just need to make a duct to direct the air out the back of the car and which will also help to keep hot engine air from reaching the rad.

Setting up the radiator leaned back rather than flat filled the area better and will be less sheet metal work that I have to do.

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  #546 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2009, 11:15 AM
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There are fiberglass scoups available that mount over the vents on the body just above the hood. One would catch more air and direct it down through the radiator.
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  #547 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2009, 11:21 AM
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I forgot to mention, I will definitely add deck lid stand offs because the radiator is in the way where the hinges would go. The stand off will give the hinges enough clearance and provide more cool air. So the deck lid will act like a scoop and draw massive air in.

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Old 10-31-2009, 03:12 PM
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just a thought while your in their makeing all this ducting why not put in a small extra duct with some sort of a door to the cab to give u some heat when it is cold out
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  #549 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2009, 07:55 PM
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Hey mate, just wanted to let you know that I looked at your project for the first time in ages the other day, and wow, it looks great. You must be really excited now.

Not only is it really close to being driveable, but this thing is really going to go well too

You should be very proud of all the hard work you've done. Congratulations

Much respect
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  #550 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2009, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SECTION25
Hey mate, just wanted to let you know that I looked at your project for the first time in ages the other day, and wow, it looks great. You must be really excited now.

Not only is it really close to being driveable, but this thing is really going to go well too

You should be very proud of all the hard work you've done. Congratulations

Much respect
Thanks you! I do feel a sense of accomplishment having got this far and never done anything like this before. There's still much more to do before I can really pat myself on the back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 89 Irocz
just a thought while your in their makeing all this ducting why not put in a small extra duct with some sort of a door to the cab to give u some heat when it is cold out
I had thought about that, but in Houston we're lucky to see near freezing temperatures during winter. A/C is something I should be looking into cause it gets well into 100+ during the summer. I could only imagine what the temps will be inside once the car sits in the sun some.
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  #551 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 09:44 AM
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Some updates.

Well, it's been a nice long week off. Saturday, Nov. 7th I got married and I took the week off following the wedding. So I really didn't do too much to the bug, but I did manage to get some work done.




Some of the small things I did that weren't worth photographing are things like moving the tranny crossmember forward and torquing the tranny mount bolts, the crossmember bolts, bell housing, bolts, etc.


Few things I ordered came in. FlowMaster 40 series 2.5" mufflers, flexplate / tranny dust cover, inline water filler neck, and an overflow plug for the radiator. I plan to have the overflow come from the inline neck rather than from the radiator.




The garage was getting a little out of control so I felt the need to get it organized. That and I got tired of working off of the floor. So I built a table, a tool organizer and cleaned up the garage.






Painted and installed the tranny dipstick, as mentioned.




I started making the firewall, engine bay, and floor patterns. I'm almost finished with the patterns. All that's left is the section that'll go behind me. There's a few 4' x 8' sheets of 14 gauge steel I plan to use because it's free and it should be plenty strong for the flooring.




Last but not least, I cut out some 2" reinforcement triangles out of the 1/8" plates that came with my cage and welded them into the top of the cage, the dash bar, the lateral bars, and the main hoop outriggers. The pics look like crap and the flux doesn't help, but they came out really well. I also redid a couple of the cage welds so they would nicer. I'm getting better at this overhead welding business.








By the end of this week I hope to at least have the flooring on it's way to being finished. Once that's done I'll take it to the muffler shop and have the exhaust and plumbing work done.

More soon...
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  #552 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 10:26 AM
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This is the pump im using in my truck boy does it ever pump more water. I found it on Ebay the guy couldn't get it to work on his truck I had to cut a ear off of it for my power steering pump would fit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1773/
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  #553 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMCTRUCKS
This is the pump im using in my truck boy does it ever pump more water. I found it on Ebay the guy couldn't get it to work on his truck I had to cut a ear off of it for my power steering pump would fit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1773/

Sounds good! I have a similar pump. Maybe even the same. It's a summit brand high volume water pump. I'm going to see how well it works. If I need more help I'll add an inline pump.
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  #554 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2009, 06:36 PM
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Looking good Matt, and congrats on getting married.

This weekend I got the front end of the chassis torn apart so I can get it cleaned up, primed, painted and rebuilt.

I'll have to work on getting some new pics posted.
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:21 PM
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I keep watching this thread to see how your build is progressing. I like what I see man!
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