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  #571 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:56 AM
V8 Super Beetle's Avatar
VW makes it, Chevy shakes it..
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprayed 63
Very cool ride. I have a 1970 Bug with a mid-engine V8. I just purchased it late in 2009 so i have not had a lot of time to tweak it yet. This is actually a kit that was manufactured and I am trying to get more information on it. It utilizes a Corvair trans-axle set up. It currently is a 4 speed and it will rock and roll.

Here are a couple of pics....
Very cool! Does the chassis look anything like this?

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  #572 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2010, 09:56 AM
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I got the engine started! Here's a video. It's dark, but you can hear it. Sounds nice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvUaSOQgPYQ
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  #573 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2010, 04:41 PM
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It Lives!!!!!!!!!!
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  #574 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2010, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by MRGM
It Lives!!!!!!!!!!
Sure does! Hopefully it'll be a driver soon.
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  #575 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2010, 10:02 PM
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I should've posted some of these updates as I went along but I've been busy with work and trying to finish this thing before the baby comes.

Today, I took the driveshaft to the shop and they're shortening and balancing it. I should have it Monday.

Lately, it's been a bunch of little things that have been keeping me busy and getting the engine going. That in itself has brought up some problems. The rear radiator setup wasn't getting water to the engine so the engine ran hot, 205-230, a couple of times during break-in. Not having any success using the rear radiator setup, I temporarily set the radiator up front on a bucket just so I could get the engine broken in at a normal operating temperature, 160-180.

Here are some of things that have been keeping me busy. These photos are in a random order. Some are self-explanatory.

I finished welding up the other side of the roof and b-pillar.






I had to buy another fuel rail because the one that came with the carb poured gas on the engine. My own fault. I cracked the line tightening it while on the carb.




Got the gas tank filler hose hooked up. If you haven't notice, I also relocated the door to the back.




I also got rid of the 3" lowering blocks in the back because; a, I don't want to take the chance of the auto zone blocks breaking under the torque of the 383, and b, the rear of the car was about an 1" - 1 1/2" lower than the front. Now the car looks a little more balance and I have a little breathing room if I were ever to corner hard I wouldn't have to worry about the tires rubbing.




One of the welded seems in the system was leaking up at the top. Seems they blew through the tubing. I tried welding up the hole, but the water from the tubing, what was left after it all leaked out, was steaming out the hole preventing me from making a good sealing weld. So I had to cut it out and use some radiator hose to fix it. When I was cutting out the section I just so happened to poke a hole in the oil filter. Needless to say I drained all the oil, put in a new filter and filled her up with fresh oil. Which was OK cause I planned to change the oil after the break-in, which is when this happened.




Here's the relocated fuel door all welded up and ground.




Here's my bare bones gauge setup, which I'll keep as is until I finish the car. Later once everything is done I'll upgrade them. Gotta cut back on certain areas. The manual cheap-o gauges will do. I have a tach, oil, and water temp. All I need. I welded the gauges to the dash bar. When I go to paint the car they'll be painted with the interior. You'll also notice a couple switches hanging and a push button starter. I plan to make a simple small panel, which will be below the gauges, to install those in.




I still need to make a support for the filler neck. The original setup point it the other direction.

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  #576 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2010, 10:02 PM
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Here's the gas pedal and brake mocked up. I have plenty of room, but I should've gave myself more leg room by moving the main hope about 6" back. Oh well, it's a race car and not a cross country cruiser.




You can see I cut out part of the metal tubing to fit in a radiator hose so I could put the radiator up front. So I had to buy another radiator hose to reconnect the rear radiator system. Still attempting to get it to work. IT'S GOT TO...




Primed the bare metal surfaces after grinding to keep from rusting.






Drill a hole and welded in a larger 3/8" fuel outlet. I welded up the stock outlet.




I decided to weld on the front shackle mounts. That was a pain reaching now that the body doesn't come off. Here you can see the paint ground away to bare metal and the mounts tacked in.




This is a picture of how I shimmed the leaf springs. The springs I have are a 1/4" narrower than the S10 springs, so I had to shim the front and the back of each side with three grade 8 washers. Worked like a champ.












Here you can see the front leaf spring mount welded up. I welded up the front, back and the sides. Not to mention I filled in the holes too. So they should be in there nice and strong.






I'll have more soon. Hopefully this thing will be driving by next update.
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  #577 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2010, 10:50 PM
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I think you are going to need to replace those rubber hoses with a silicone hoses and the proper clamps. I would hate to lose one of those hoses in traffic . Rubber hoses aren't really meant to be used in that manner and the quality of hoses today is basically crap.
The Air flow through the radiator needs to checked too. Have you tried setting up some sort of smoke generator ( a bug bomb will work) and with the fans running watch the air as it is sucked into the radiator and where it goes when it is expelled ?
You need a lot more Air volume that you realize and the water must be able to move through the core easily. With this in mind I would install a secondary booster pump close to the radiator .A lot of modern cars have electric pumps and Davies Craig sell a pretty good Electric water pump.
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/
A automotive water pump isn't designed to move a lotr of water against a big 'head' of pressure caused by a having to move a massive extra volume as you have with pipes running to the rear.
One litre of water weighs a Kilo,so if you have an extra 20 liters of water that is an extra mass of 20Kg. that the pump has to shift and under acceleration the relative mass is increased.
Another thing to consider is air bubbles in the system,air will not conduct heat as effectively as water.
You need to set up a bleeder close to ther highest point near the radiator. a coolant expansion tank is ideal for this if you can connect a hose from the high point to the tank to allow air to escape.
Also,a point to consider is pressure. A cooling systen needs pressure to prevent boiling. Every point of pressure increase results in one degree cooler running. Other wise at 175 your cooling system would be boiling and the temp would continue to rise . Get a hold of a pressure tester and pump the system up and examine it for leaks . rectify any of those before serious road testing commences to eliminate heartache later on.

Make sure you have the correct thermostat installed too. A cold running engine is as bad as a hot running one.
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  #578 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2010, 05:44 AM
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Are you sure your getting water flow to the radiator? I have a SBC installed in the back and the radiator is up front. Its using the stock Fiero radiator and coolant pipes.

I can hold it at 190 in some pretty high temps outside and thats with the stock Fiero radiator. I have a larger aluminum radiator that I will be installing at some point but right now the one I have is getting the job done.

IF you are getting water flow then its air flow that you need to work out. Perhaps you need some big air scoops on the side to flow some air into the radiator.
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  #579 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2010, 08:30 AM
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Looks like underdrive waterpump pulleys from the pics?
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  #580 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2010, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmad63
I think you are going to need to replace those rubber hoses with a silicone hoses and the proper clamps. I would hate to lose one of those hoses in traffic . Rubber hoses aren't really meant to be used in that manner and the quality of hoses today is basically crap.
The Air flow through the radiator needs to checked too. Have you tried setting up some sort of smoke generator ( a bug bomb will work) and with the fans running watch the air as it is sucked into the radiator and where it goes when it is expelled ?
You need a lot more Air volume that you realize and the water must be able to move through the core easily. With this in mind I would install a secondary booster pump close to the radiator .A lot of modern cars have electric pumps and Davies Craig sell a pretty good Electric water pump.
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/
A automotive water pump isn't designed to move a lotr of water against a big 'head' of pressure caused by a having to move a massive extra volume as you have with pipes running to the rear.
One litre of water weighs a Kilo,so if you have an extra 20 liters of water that is an extra mass of 20Kg. that the pump has to shift and under acceleration the relative mass is increased.
Another thing to consider is air bubbles in the system,air will not conduct heat as effectively as water.
You need to set up a bleeder close to ther highest point near the radiator. a coolant expansion tank is ideal for this if you can connect a hose from the high point to the tank to allow air to escape.
Also,a point to consider is pressure. A cooling systen needs pressure to prevent boiling. Every point of pressure increase results in one degree cooler running. Other wise at 175 your cooling system would be boiling and the temp would continue to rise . Get a hold of a pressure tester and pump the system up and examine it for leaks . rectify any of those before serious road testing commences to eliminate heartache later on.

Make sure you have the correct thermostat installed too. A cold running engine is as bad as a hot running one.
Me too. Hopefully I can get this system to work without more issues. Thanks for the advice.
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  #581 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2010, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake_Dragon
Are you sure your getting water flow to the radiator? I have a SBC installed in the back and the radiator is up front. Its using the stock Fiero radiator and coolant pipes.

I can hold it at 190 in some pretty high temps outside and thats with the stock Fiero radiator. I have a larger aluminum radiator that I will be installing at some point but right now the one I have is getting the job done.

IF you are getting water flow then its air flow that you need to work out. Perhaps you need some big air scoops on the side to flow some air into the radiator.
I'm not getting water flow to the radiator at all. I'll fire it up again soon and see if I have fixed the issue. I'm thinking it's cause air lock. I've got some good advice from others, as well as you, that have a similar setup. So I'm still working with fixing the problems I'm having. I'll keep you guys posted.
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  #582 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2010, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airboat
Looks like underdrive waterpump pulleys from the pics?
I'm not sure. Could be? Doesn't say.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3963/
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  #583 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2010, 01:40 PM
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Got the driveshaft shortened and balanced at a place called Northwest Drive Train Service. A nice group of guys, quick turn around, and fairly low pricing (plug, over). Now I can finally finish the flooring. I'm going to get the brake lines ran and hook up the steering so I can move this thing around under it's own power.




More soon...hopefully of this thing driving.
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  #584 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 08:34 AM
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Made some leaps and bounds, so to speak. I FINALLY got the rear radiator setup to work. With the fan on and idling in place, the car stays between 170-180. I got the trans cooler lines ran, tranny filled, and IT WORKS! So that's great news. Here's a video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jddQnaYaADo

I've also been working on finishing up my brake system. I took the rear drum brakes apart, sand blasted the parts, painted them, got a new hardware kit, and wheel cylinders. I have one side put back together. The hold up on the other side is the emergency cable is shot. The spring is no good. Seems like it got hung up while mudding.

Hopefully I'll get the brakes system setup and I can move it around under it's own power.

Thanks for the help guys!
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  #585 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2010, 01:59 PM
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Not necessarily the most exciting update, but another thing checked off the TTD list.

Rebuilt the drum brakes. Sandblasted the small parts, installed new spring kit, wheel cylinders, and shoes. The drums were turned long ago by the guy I bought my frame from. Look at that mess the passenger side made.



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