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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2008, 12:24 PM
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Looking very good!!!

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2008, 12:56 PM
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Thanks! It's coming along but there's still a lot to do.
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Super Beetle
Are you planning on building a V8 bug? If so, any year S-10 chassis will work. Your best bet is to go with a regular cab short bed S-10 chassis. But really, any S-10 will work, you just have to cut the frame so the wheelbase is 94.5" for a beetle or 95.25" for a super beetle, which is what I have. I used a 94 S-10 extended cab frame. It's all I could find, but it'll work.

I know another guy that's building a V8 bug with a S-10 chassis, and I believe his was an extended cab as well, but it was an earlier model. He welded his frame together a little different than mine.

Go here and you could him about his as well.

v8bugs.com and look for user name hellraiser.

I hope this helped!

Thank you very much for your time.and for helping me.

sammy
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2008, 02:38 PM
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Anytime! If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. A lot of this project I'm just kinda winging it and you have lots of room to be creative when it comes to using parts.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2008, 08:46 PM
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looking good man. keep the updates coming. hg
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2008, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemmiGremmie
looking good man. keep the updates coming. hg
Thanks! I'll have some more soon, hopefully by the end of the week if time allows for it.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2008, 09:11 AM
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Body Channeling

OK, I did a search on this forum but found lots of threads with the word body in it but nothing specifically talking about body channeling.

Can anyone tell me or give me advice on the best way to channel a body to fit / lower a the body on a frame / chassis? I'm wanting to look ahead into this because I will run into this soon and would like to kinda know where I'm going with this.

Is it as simple as placing the body on the frame, centering it (well, in my project's case), and cutting away the body sheet metal, using the side of the frame as guide?

Any advice / input would be appreciated!
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2008, 11:11 AM
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This might of some help to you
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=182686
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2008, 01:22 PM
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Thanks for the help! I'll see how that project plays out cause I'll essentially have to completely fabricate a new floor pan for my build as well.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2008, 02:49 PM
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I have no advise on channeling, never done it.
The S-10 frame is fairly tall and the floor pan of the bug is pretty flat. I think the frame will be intruding big time into the bugs interior. You will probably need some low riding seats to have any hope of head room.
JM2C
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2008, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
I have no advise on channeling, never done it.
The S-10 frame is fairly tall and the floor pan of the bug is pretty flat. I think the frame will be intruding big time into the bugs interior. You will probably need some low riding seats to have any hope of head room.
JM2C
True! The height of the S10 frame rails are 6" and the height of the heater channels that run along or make up the bottom of the door jam is about 2". So I'll defintely have a few inches of frame intruding into the interior. I kept the stock bug seats and I could easily remove the legs and pretty much mount them to the floor. There should be plenty of headroom cause of the bubble shape of the body.

Thanks for the advice!
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2008, 09:55 PM
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Slag Inclusion

Hey guys, I got the frame welded up but I've run into a little trouble. Hopefully some of you could give me some advice to help me fix it.

I have an arc welder that I'm using to do the welding and I'm getting some slag inclusion. I'm a novice welder and I can weld a good looking sound bead using a circular motion technique flat, no problem. My problem comes when welding vertically. I think part of my problem is when welding vertically, bottom to top, the molten metal would run a little and trap some slag. Also, I'm using a 3/32 rod and I ran the first bead along the butt joint and then did multiple overlapping beads just trying to be sure I've got it welded up good. In doing so I've managed to trap some slag and I'm wanting to get rid of any slag inclusions. Before each pass I would clip and brush the slag away. So what I tried was grinding down the welds smooth and you could see the slight slag inclusion. I've used a wire brush and even a cup brush attachment for a grinder to try and remove the slag. I could completely get it out. So I would weld another few overlapping beads down to try and fix this to find I've made it a little better but then would run into the same problem.

How do I fix this? Also, I've having a little trouble welding on reinforcement plates. The slag is tending to fall into the cracks. The weld metal from the rod also would just sit on top the plate rather than weld the metal to the frame. Is this cause I'm welding it not at the right angle?

Here's some pics.





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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2008, 11:03 PM
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What kind of rods are you using? AC? DC+? DC-?

Have they been stored where the flux can't absorb moisture from the air?

Some of your beads look cold and rushed.

I suggest making it spotless and trying some new 7018 rods. Keep a very short arc, as in scratching along. Take your time and practice a bit.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grouch
What kind of rods are you using? AC? DC+? DC-?

Have they been stored where the flux can't absorb moisture from the air?

Some of your beads look cold and rushed.

I suggest making it spotless and trying some new 7018 rods. Keep a very short arc, as in scratching along. Take your time and practice a bit.
To tell you the truth, I'm not sure if they're AC or DC cause I got a couple handfuls from our engineer here at work and they were stored in his shop in a cabinet. I'll look into that cause my machine is AC only.

I'm going to grind away the welds that don't look so great, practice some more, and then got slower and pretty much drag the rod to keep the arc length short and see how that turns out. I might have gradually rushed my welds and not have realized it being a novice welder. I have a new box of AC7018 rods that I'll give a try.

Thanks for the advice!
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 11:07 AM
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Understand that I'm not a welder by trade; I was just making guesses at the problems based on my own goofs. It would be great if we could get some of the ~real~ welders on here to take a look at your photos.

In the meantime, I searched for 'SMAW weld defects slag inclusion' and found the following:

SMAW Basics—How much do you know?
Quote:
4. Porosity, slag inclusion, and undercut, the cardinal sin of welding, are defects because they weaken the welded joint and can cause it to fail.

Porosity is wormholes in the weld. It may be caused by moisture in the flux, which is turned into tiny steam explosions, or even minute traces of gas left in the steel when it was formed.

Slag inclusion occurs when the slag is not chipped and cleaned properly and then welded over. A good welder will burn through any exposed slag, but sometimes the slag can be skipped over, leaving it trapped under the bead.

Undercut is the cardinal sin because it occurs when the base metal is penetrated, or cut into, without leaving any filler metal. This usually happens when welders use the wrong rod angle, go too fast, or use amps that are too hot.
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