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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by grouch
Understand that I'm not a welder by trade; I was just making guesses at the problems based on my own goofs. It would be great if we could get some of the ~real~ welders on here to take a look at your photos.

In the meantime, I searched for 'SMAW weld defects slag inclusion' and found the following:

SMAW Basics—How much do you know?
I understand and thanks for the guidance. I've read up and practiced throughly before attempting to weld my frame. I understand about chipping the slag and cleaning it all away before running another bead, but for some reason I would make a pass where I have not welded before, such as welding the fish plating, and the slag would just go down into the crevice / gap where the metal should've filled? I can't figure it out. Could it be cause the frame has become magnetized? I did notice when I was cutting the frame and doing the prep work that the metal the blade cut away was magnetize in the cut area, if that makes sense.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 10:11 PM
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You probably could not have chosen a better rod than the 7018 for that but a DC machine with the DC version of the 7018 would sure work better, however the AC welder can be used for this it will just be a bit more work to get it looking right. From those pics it would seem that you are letting the arc get too long and you need to get in closer with a shorter arc and try to travel at a steady rate. Keep the arc short and try to keep it the same length from the start of the pass to the finish. I would strongly suggest you practice on some scrap before attempting any more welding on the frame and in a short time it will all seem easy, it just takes practice and you will soon develop a "feel" for it. Have you been using something like maybe 6013 or 7014 rods or have you been using the 7018 from the beginning? If you have been using one of the common mild steel rods such as any of the 60xxx or even the common 7014 then you should remove all of the weld and start over because those rods are not suitable for frame work and you really do need the 7018.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2008, 11:53 PM
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Pssst! V8 Super Beetle, one of those real welders I mentioned has weighed in. Nail his shoes to the floor until you get the frame done.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by oldred
You probably could not have chosen a better rod than the 7018 for that but a DC machine with the DC version of the 7018 would sure work better, however the AC welder can be used for this it will just be a bit more work to get it looking right. From those pics it would seem that you are letting the arc get too long and you need to get in closer with a shorter arc and try to travel at a steady rate. Keep the arc short and try to keep it the same length from the start of the pass to the finish. I would strongly suggest you practice on some scrap before attempting any more welding on the frame and in a short time it will all seem easy, it just takes practice and you will soon develop a "feel" for it. Have you been using something like maybe 6013 or 7014 rods or have you been using the 7018 from the beginning? If you have been using one of the common mild steel rods such as any of the 60xxx or even the common 7014 then you should remove all of the weld and start over because those rods are not suitable for frame work and you really do need the 7018.
I've been using a Lincoln brand 6013 rod. So Should I start over?
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
You probably could not have chosen a better rod than the 7018 for that but a DC machine with the DC version of the 7018 would sure work better, however the AC welder can be used for this it will just be a bit more work to get it looking right. From those pics it would seem that you are letting the arc get too long and you need to get in closer with a shorter arc and try to travel at a steady rate. Keep the arc short and try to keep it the same length from the start of the pass to the finish. I would strongly suggest you practice on some scrap before attempting any more welding on the frame and in a short time it will all seem easy, it just takes practice and you will soon develop a "feel" for it. Have you been using something like maybe 6013 or 7014 rods or have you been using the 7018 from the beginning? If you have been using one of the common mild steel rods such as any of the 60xxx or even the common 7014 then you should remove all of the weld and start over because those rods are not suitable for frame work and you really do need the 7018.
What about leaving the frame welded with the 6013 rod and welding on the reinforcement plates with the 7018?
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 10:22 AM
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ANY 6013 weld you have on that frame needs to be removed as it simply is not compatible with the steel the frame is made of, It will weld it OK but it will not be nearly as strong as the 7018, in fact it probably will be quite weak. Also you should dry the rods for an hour or so in an oven at about 300 to 350 deg if the package has already been opened and if left exposed to the air for over an hour they should be dried again. You can bake these rods and then keep them sealed in an air-tight plastic bag until you are ready to use them. You may find that small 7018 a bit harder to use at first than the 6013 because it will tend to "stick" easier but with a little practice that will not be a problem, the 7018 however will weld in a vertical or overhead position a heck of a lot better than the 6013 and you will find it much easier to keep slag out of your weld using this rod. You are attempting some tricky welding for a beginner but I think you can do this with no real problems if you practice a bit first and learn a few of the tricks such as using the right filler metal and keeping those rods dry which is very important to prevent hydrogen embrittlement. Try and get some scrap about the same thickness as what you will be welding and then simulate what you are building that way you can identify potential welding problems and correct them before tackling that critical frame work.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
ANY 6013 weld you have on that frame needs to be removed as it simply is not compatible with the steel the frame is made of, It will weld it OK but it will not be nearly as strong as the 7018, in fact it probably will be quite weak. Also you should dry the rods for an hour or so in an oven at about 300 to 350 deg if the package has already been opened and if left exposed to the air for over an hour they should be dried again. You can bake these rods and then keep them sealed in an air-tight plastic bag until you are ready to use them. You may find that small 7018 a bit harder to use at first than the 6013 because it will tend to "stick" easier but with a little practice that will not be a problem, the 7018 however will weld in a vertical or overhead position a heck of a lot better than the 6013 and you will find it much easier to keep slag out of your weld using this rod. You are attempting some tricky welding for a beginner but I think you can do this with no real problems if you practice a bit first and learn a few of the tricks such as using the right filler metal and keeping those rods dry which is very important to prevent hydrogen embrittlement. Try and get some scrap about the same thickness as what you will be welding and then simulate what you are building that way you can identify potential welding problems and correct them before tackling that critical frame work.
Thanks for your help! Unfortunately I welded many passes with the 6013 and completely have welded up the frame with it. So at this point I'm going to have to do some rethinking. In my mind it might almost be easier to just construct a new frame out of 2x3 steel tubing and use the front suspension from the S-10. I want the frame be done right and would rather put a little more time and $ into it then the frame fail on the road one day.

In the meantime, until I figure out what move to make, I'll get a 10 lb box of 7018 AC rods and practice, practice, practice.....
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 09:35 PM
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Updates.....

Finished welding the frame halves together.










I didn't see how close the tie rod ends were to the wheels. Pretty close.




Inside shots.








Some shots of the wheels / body with the fender on.








Looks like I'll have to add 2" to the fenders to cover the rear wheels.




The front seems okay. I guess the rear of the bug body is narrower?




Bug body sitting on the S10 frame.




Next I'll channel the body and remove the necessary metal so it'll drop down on the frame. Then I'll make the body mounts.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 10:55 PM
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dude, i haven't posted anything to help and I don't post very often here, but i've been watching this thread and your bug is going to be freakin awesome! Just needed to say that, keep it up.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 11:49 PM
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All this and a set of excellent pictures! That one-eyed beast in the last picture is almost alive. Keep safe while you're working on your Frankenwagen; don't want to let it get out of control on the home stretch. I'm looking forward to the day when you proclaim, "It's aliiive!"

(Of course, that will mean the biggest journey is finished).
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by joehalford01
dude, i haven't posted anything to help and I don't post very often here, but i've been watching this thread and your bug is going to be freakin awesome! Just needed to say that, keep it up.
Thanks Joe! I'm glad to hear my project interests you. I'll keep everyone posted as the project unfolds.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by grouch
All this and a set of excellent pictures! That one-eyed beast in the last picture is almost alive. Keep safe while you're working on your Frankenwagen; don't want to let it get out of control on the home stretch. I'm looking forward to the day when you proclaim, "It's aliiive!"

(Of course, that will mean the biggest journey is finished).
I think I heard a faint grown from the Frankenwagen (the last picture)...

I will keep safe as I go and I always dress for the occasion while piecing together my monster.

Lookin' like a mad scientist....


The day I claim "it's aliiiivvvve" will be a great one and I'll definitely get pictures and hopefully even some video. Until then I'm just taking my time with it.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 08:57 PM
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What, no hardhat?

That dust mask looks like one of mine. (You know it's bad when you cough in one and then can't see for the cloud).

oshasanta
(Of course, that was made back before OSHA was gutted. Hard to be effective when the money's taken away and 2100 inspectors are all you have for 8,000,000+ workplaces -- they will complete their 1st round in 117 years).
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by grouch
What, no hardhat?

That dust mask looks like one of mine. (You know it's bad when you cough in one and then can't see for the cloud).

oshasanta
(Of course, that was made back before OSHA was gutted. Hard to be effective when the money's taken away and 2100 inspectors are all you have for 8,000,000+ workplaces -- they will complete their 1st round in 117 years).
LOL, yeah, I probably could've used one under that body working on the frame. Lord knows I bumped my head plenty of times.

I think that's when it would be time to get a new one, or just remove the dust with an air hose.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2008, 11:14 PM
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Updates.......

I cut away a lot of metal over the past couple days. Removed most of the luggage metal, the rear tire well, and front.














I'll post more tomorrow with all the fenders on! 8-)
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