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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2008, 09:32 AM
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Thank you for all your help

Would just like to say thand you very much for all your work and photos.it all has been a very BIG BIG. help to me on doing my bug.i call it the chevbug.



sam

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2008, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyvc
Would just like to say thand you very much for all your work and photos.it all has been a very BIG BIG. help to me on doing my bug.i call it the chevbug.



sam
I'm glad it's helped. Do you have any pics? You should post some. Also, you should consider joining the v8 bug community.

V8bugs.com

The guys there, I'm sure, would like to see your build.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2008, 10:55 PM
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With the fenders. Looks like the body needs to come forward a little. Might even need to move the rear back a little.















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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2008, 08:25 AM
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I agree, it looks as though the body needs to move forward.
I am not trying to rain on your parade, I really like what you are doing. I have a couple of questions though.
Are you still planning to set the body lower on the frame?
What are you using for the power train?
Will the radiator end up in the back?
Will you attempt to use the OE hood?
Keep up the good work!
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2008, 03:35 PM
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I do plan on lowering the body on the frame some more. I've got to hook up the shackle mounts so I can see just how much to lower it. I wont lower the front of the body on the frame as much so I can fit the v8 under the OEM hood. I'll be using a 283. The radiator will go up front.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2008, 05:31 PM
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This is the kind of stuff that really blows my skirt up. It's the same kind of hobby work I've been doing for the past 40 years and I intend to follow your progress through to fruition. Having put a MGA body on a shortened and narrowed '65 Ford frame with 392 hemi/Torqueflite, VW body on a shortened and narrowed '62 Olds frame with 413 Chrysler/Torqueflite and several other stillborn projects, I know what you are experiencing. On my last project, a '26 Ford hiboy roadster, I gathered up enough intestinal fortitude to design and build the frame and IFS from scratch.

I did a search for super beetle wheelbase and came up with several answers. Some say it was 3/4" longer than the standard beetle, some say 0.800", some say 1 1/2" and some say 3". I could more readily believe 3", because the difference between (94.5 + 3 = 97.5) and your wheelbase (95.5) would be another 2" and that looks like it might put the rear tire right in the middle of the fender.

I wouldn't do any more lowering if the body until you chain down or in some way pull the front and rear suspension down to ride height. All the suspension components are in the full droop position right now because they don't have any weight on them. Find a running S10 like you used (at a used car dealer for instance) and put an angle finder on the lower control arm on the front to find out where the arm needs to be at ride height so that the suspension and steering geometry will work as the factory designed it to. It won't be a problem to get the ride height correct on the car once you have everything on it. Just change springs. If you need help with the calcs, call these guys. They have every spring for every car......http://www.eatonsprings.com/

Last edited by techinspector1; 03-23-2008 at 05:37 PM.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2008, 07:24 AM
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Thanks! Sounds like you've done some really cool projects.

That's the thing about the net, that I found, you find different answers and I got the 95.25" wheelbase from wiki, but you're right. Seems if I just move the rear end back 2" is should be centered. That shouldn't be too big a problem. I'll either just relocate the fixed leaf spring mounts back 2" or, and guys, tell me if this is possible, I could just move the rear end back on the leaf springs. Or I guess I should say, is it safe to drill and relocate the bolt that holds together the leaf spring suspension together?

That's the next thing I need to do also is to mount the motor and tranny or find a S10 that has weight on the suspension already. From there I can figure out just how low to have the body on the chassis.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2008, 01:27 AM
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The leaf springs are spring steel and/or hardened, so you will probably have to use a carbide bit, go slowly and use lots of coolant/lube on the bit. But that's probably the way I would do it, rather than moving the whole mess back. You could do it either way though.

Leave the spring together to drill the new hole, using C-clamps in addition if you need to. Here are some tutorials on leaf springs from Eaton Detroit Spring, in my opinion the best supplier in the country......
http://www.eatonsprings.com/Spring%20Tech%20101.pdf
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqMainPage.htm
http://www.eatonsprings.com/ubolttorques.htm
http://www.eatonsprings.com/rate.htm
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2008, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
The leaf springs are spring steel and/or hardened, so you will probably have to use a carbide bit, go slowly and use lots of coolant/lube on the bit. But that's probably the way I would do it, rather than moving the whole mess back. You could do it either way though.

Leave the spring together to drill the new hole, using C-clamps in addition if you need to. Here are some tutorials on leaf springs from Eaton Detroit Spring, in my opinion the best supplier in the country......
http://www.eatonsprings.com/Spring%20Tech%20101.pdf
http://www.eatonsprings.com/atqMainPage.htm
http://www.eatonsprings.com/ubolttorques.htm
http://www.eatonsprings.com/rate.htm
Should I drill a new hole through all of the leaf springs or just the longest / first and then just relocate the remaining leafs? Thanks for the help!
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2008, 02:38 PM
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reminds me of mine let me know if you want paint code. I may do the same as you in 5+ years with this one however i will make it look like a class11 vw. skinny tall tires in the rear and same size in the front

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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 31chevy
reminds me of mine let me know if you want paint code. I may do the same as you in 5+ years with this one however i will make it look like a class11 vw. skinny tall tires in the rear and same size in the front

Wow! Your bug looks great! Your right, mine's the same exact color inside and out. I was originally planning on making it look as stock as possible and I still could since I'm in the power train / chassis building part. Only thing is I wanted the have wider wheels to get more rubber on the road so it'll handle better and hook up better too. I like the modern looking bugs too. Nice work though!
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 08:54 AM
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I was able to fix the wheel centering problem this weekend with a little adjustment of the body and some more trimming. I basically pushed the body forward about 2" or less and remove some more of the heater channels so instead of the top part of the heater channel sitting on top of the frame it now is about 1.5"-2" lower than setting on the frame rails. The body really, because the shackles aren't hooked up yet, needed the rear dropped essentially.

Rear Driver Side


Rear Passenger Side


Front Passenger Side


Front Driver Side


Got about 2" of height between the wheels and fenders. I'll probably have to lower the rear some more after hooking up the shackles.


Couple shots of the engine bay.


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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 11:13 AM
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Vw

Looks like your on the North side of Houston im in the Clear Lake area PM me I sure would like to drop by with my son and see it if you don't mind someday?
Keep up the good work also wouldn't the 350 fit just as well as the 283 you can get ponys out of it.
Bye! RJ
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2008, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMCTRUCKS
Looks like your on the North side of Houston im in the Clear Lake area PM me I sure would like to drop by with my son and see it if you don't mind someday?
Keep up the good work also wouldn't the 350 fit just as well as the 283 you can get ponys out of it.
Bye! RJ
I'm on the NW side, 290 area of Houston, really called Cypress. I'll shoot you the address some time so you can come over and check it out.

Any size Chevy V8 would fit onto the frame with the motor mounts I've got. I could go with a 350 but the 283 I was given will push just as much HP. Its' bored and rebuilt with forged pistons, crank, etc. The engine will have a 10.5 - 11:1 compression ratio. I've got a set of 2.02 heads for the motor but I'm thinking of getting some Dart Iron Eagle heads. Any who, that lil 283 will hold me over until I decide to upgrade to a BB!
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2008, 02:26 PM
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V/8 Vw

Check your PM's I just send you something that I found that im hoping it might help you on your build.
Be good! GMC
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