Hot Rod Forum banner

V8 1973 VW Beetle Project

826K views 836 replies 88 participants last post by  V8 Super Beetle 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all!

I'm in the process of building a V8 Bug out of my 1973 VW Super Beetle. I know this is possible because it's been done before. I'm on the v8bugs.com forum where you can find a handle full of example and different ways to accomplish this, but I still have questions. There's a lot more traffic here so hopefully I can get some help. I'm pretty much a beginner hot rodder that's a DYI kinda guy.

I'm looking into building a custom 2"x3" tube chassis for my build. I've took some measurements from my bug and designed a chassis in Illustrator to size. I'm trying to design the frame so it'll use the stock suspension up front.

I currently have a 283 SBC and th350 to put into the bug, but at the moment the motor is the block, with pistons and all, and heads. The motor is at my old mans (he works nights) so I don't have access to measure the motor off for mounting and what not.

Could anyone tell me, ballpark figure, about how much distance I'll need from each frame rail to fit the engine with mounts and shorty headers?

Here's my frame design, the distance between each frame rail is exactly 27.5". Also I intend on mounting the motor to the crossmembers that hold in the front control arms / suspension. Is this enough distance? Could I bring the distance between the two main frame rails closer? How should I mount the engine to the cross member with then motor mounts I have (see picture below)?



Here's some pics of my beetle and progress. I'm still working on cutting out the trunk!





 
See less See more
4
#156 ·
F&J said:
Just a suggestion on quieter grinding wheels to deal with the neighbors.... if you use 4.5 grinder, try a flap type wheel. They are TONS quieter than the hard ones. Several grits available.
Cool! Thanks for the heads up. I have one and never really thought of that. Now I've just been closing the garage during cutting with the sawzall and grinding but I use a particle mask to keep airborne stuff out of my nose and lungs. :thumbup:
 
#157 ·
V8 Super Beetle said:
Cool! Thanks for the heads up. I have one and never really thought of that. Now I've just been closing the garage during cutting with the sawzall and grinding but I use a particle mask to keep airborne stuff out of my nose and lungs. :thumbup:
is you can try throwing a heavy rubber mat on the metal when using the flap wheel (watch for fire) see if thats quieter
 
#159 ·
Finished the shackles this weekend. Cut down the driver side shackle, welded a reinforcement plate, and then boxed off both ends of the shackles. I've got about 1/4" of clearance between the leaf spring end and the frame but when it compresses there isn't any problem cause the spring kicks out and the frame tucks under the spring eye!







This set of pics came out better too cause I cleaned my camera phone lens! :D
 
#162 ·
Just a heads-up on a couple things. In the side view showing the roll bar arrangement, you have the diagonal rear support bars coming off the main hoop (B-bar) down from the top of the bar. Just be aware that the diagonals need to be within 5 inches of the top of the B bar. On the hoop 2, make sure the driveshaft loop is within 6 inches of the front u-joint.
 
#163 ·
techinspector1 said:
Just a heads-up on a couple things. In the side view showing the roll bar arrangement, you have the diagonal rear support bars coming off the main hoop (B-bar) down from the top of the bar. Just be aware that the diagonals need to be within 5 inches of the top of the B bar. On the hoop 2, make sure the driveshaft loop is within 6 inches of the front u-joint.
Thanks Techinspector1 for the heads up! You've been a big help. I'll be sure to revise my plan and make those adjustments.
 
#168 ·
This breaking of things by UPS has got to be a state of mind with the employees. My wife shipped some family heirlooms from North Carolina to Arizona. Big mistake. Everything was properly packaged at the point of shipment, but when the boxes arrived, EVERYTHING was smashed beyond repair. Looked like they ran over the boxes with a truck. This is unacceptable. All those monkeys need to be re-trained or fired.
 
#170 ·
I couldn't agree with you more Tech. UPS in known for not being good with packages. They definitely need to fix their operations.

Yesterday I called up Summit to find out what I should do about getting it taken care of free of charge to me. The guy at Summit was going to send me a new stud, but I told him I don't have the tools to fix it. Which I don't and really don't want to bother with fixing a new product I just purchased. So Summit help desk said to take it to a GM dealer to see if they'll fix it under warranty. I just called service and asked if they would. They told me pretty much what I expected, "It's up to Summit to take care of the problem and not us." So Summit emailed me a call tag. It's being shipped back at their expense and as soon as they see movement on the tracking they'll send out a new head.

I though it was kinda gay that they just didn't email me the call tag first thing instead these alternatives, but it could've been cause of miscommunication cause he was thinking I needed the parts ASAP.

Either way it was all taken care of. Definitely worth the wait to get it right.
 
#172 ·
I just read right through this. Saturday morning and all... :)
You need to get on side with the lady who's complaining. Some people do not know how to stop in these situations and she may be a bit lonely,this being her way of communicating to the world that she exists.

Second,I once built a 32 Ford using a similar GM chassis, not pretty at all!but this was 1970 something and i was a lot younger then :D .
You will find that handling AS in going along the road fast and around bends will be OK,but REAL handling where you can 'point and squirt 'with your car will not be happening.
I can see what your're doing is a great idea and how every beginning rodder should do it. :welcome:
Although i would buy a 200 amp ac/dc welder or hire one and rent a oxy/aeteylene set and learn how to do sheet metal welding,it's a LOT easier :)

When you do your next beetle V8 heres a link to how it should be done in the 21st Century.
V8 beetle plans

 
#173 ·
Thanks for reading my post! :thumbup:

She seems to just not like it when I'm working past eight which is the kiddos bed time. So I just stop right before eight and if I'm doing any kind of grinding or cutting with the sawzall I just close the garage door. ;) So far that seems to be working.

Thanks for sharing the Rotary build, although this was the first V8 bug build I had come across and considered building it. My only problem at this point is $$$. The cost of the steel alone would be expensive, not including the suspension parts and a tranny like that audi 5 Hugo is using (Hugo is that guy building that chassis you sent a picture of). I would love to build that design, but at the moment budget is a big concern which is why I decided to use a S10 chassis and it's simpler for a beginner like my self. Once I have my own garage I'll take on a project like that and then I could use a 220v welder.

I wish I could get a 220v mig welder but the 110v 100 amp buzz box will have to do for now since I don't have a 220v outlet to work from.

Here's a pic of the latest progress on that rear engined V8 bug.

 
#174 ·
Got a little bit of work done this weekend. For starters I rolled out "Blue", swept up the garage, and organized a bit. I got that out the way so I could make another mess.

Now that I've got my chassis about 85% done I'm concentrating on doing body work. My plan is to have both the frame and body finished at the same time so that way I can send off my car to get painted while I break down, paint and rebuild the chassis.






There's some dings here and there you couldn't really see but could feel. So I took care of those. I sprayed primer on those areas once I finished smoothing down the body filler.



 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top