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It rides great. The rear springs I selected are perfect. The ride is nice and cushy, not too soft, but it's not bouncy either. I still need to get an alignment though. It's plenty fast too. I'm still getting used to it, but is scary when I mash it. Quick little update. I'm closing in on the body work. I put down a guide coat of black primer and sanded it all down and it's looking good. There were a couple low spots I missed but I have found them. My main problem area as of now is still the roof. I'm working on putting a skim coat of body filler and sanding away. I didn't get too much time to work on it this weekend cause I had a gig so that pretty much takes up my Saturday and Sunday since I'm recovering the next day. I'll get some photos this week. I know I'm starting to sound like a broken record but I'm finally pretty happy with the body work, for the most part. I'm 85% sure I'll get primer down this weekend. |
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Paint it dude
Just kidding. Maybe you could find a friend with the same roof and make a template out of construction board going from front to back. You would have to make three of them. Front section, middle and back. And by the way that's width wise and not length. LOL. That may help you gauge the right arc of the roof line. It also might be to your advantage to just find a roof and cut it. You do seem to weld good.
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I'm going to give making a sanding board like this a try. My problem has been the whole car is one big round bubble and all the board I have are flat. I'm going to see if I can't get some plexiglass or something along those lines to make a flexible block. |
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Flex board
The flex board will work out fine. Remember that once you get it close with a final sand of 600 or so, use a high build primer then finish sand and it will be close enough. With a beetle roof it doesn't have to be perfect cause the way the roof flows no one will notice anything. Can you imagine someone with protractor eye balls. Or slide rules coming out of pockets etc. LOL Unless those spots are flat as ironing boards. he he he
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Thanks for the advice. As of now my plan is to get the body straight as possible with filler. I'm blocking with 36, 80, then 100. I'll spray a couple coats of epoxy primer, a couple coats of high build 2K primer, and mist a black guide coat. Block sand dry with 180 / wet 220. Fix any imperfections. Spray another coat or two (depending on how straight the body came out) of high build primer to get a uniform color. Possibly another mist coat and wet sand with 400 then 600 all in one direction until guide coat is gone and the body as perfect as I can get it. Then will come two coats of S/S paint and two coats of clear for an extra shine. The I'll sand away the orange peal with 400-600 grit and then lay a wet coat of clear. I've never done this before, well I've done spot repairs and took cars into Maaco, but never a full job from start to finish myself. This seems like a good plan, to me at least. If this doesn't get the roof straight I don't know what will. I made a flexible sanding block out of some scrap plexiglass and wood. I glued the pieces on and voila. ![]() ![]() As you can see I put down a skim coat on the entire hood. Im noticing where I was having my problems the filler was sanded flat. It didn't have that nice curve the vw roof has. The rest of the body is pretty much ready except for sanding down a couple spots the needed a little filler, which you can see as the darker shade of bondo. Pin holes and grooves. ![]() ![]() ![]() Crossing my fingers and hoping to get the roof ready in time for the weekend. |
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Black Top
Well you are right about the black. Mine is Guards Red(the whole car). It's been painted about twenty three years ago and still in good shape. I'll post pictures soon. I've been watching your progress from the beginning of time as it seems. Going to maybe do another one like yours using another body. I like the idea of no vents or cutouts in the hood for a stock look. Right now I'm still trying to figure out what frame layout to use. I'm looking at a Chevy ll sub frame(pre-fabbed ) with a manual rack. Then a Rear sub pro street and just tie the frames together for the length. Cage it etc. Use shorty headers that use clamps and Nascar style rectangular oval exhaust. I think over all I may use the S-10 frame and narrow it in the rear(Pro Street).
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Nice! Post some pics when you get the chance. All of those sound like great options. If I more $$$ for my project, and did do it while I had to pay for a down payment on a new home, wedding, and now a baby
Something like so.
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Pro Touring
Do you have anymore pics of that frame? Looks like a S-10 with Sub. Just the way I would do it. Wonder if your idea with the rad in the back would still work with it? And I wonder how low I could get the body on it. I would still put a cage in it. I'm so excited and I haven't even done anything. LOL
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![]() No as big size wise though. Yup, S10 back halved! You could do a body drop. That's what I did. The bottom of my bug body sits flush with the bottom of the frame. Only problem is I lost 6" of interior floor space so my head is about 5-6" away from the roof. |
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Frame
The frame we are looking at is for a 41 Willis with S-10 front, shortened, with sub. Same concept though. The sub frame in the back would have to be changed a bit. Don't know the cost of the rear sub frame either. Will let you know during my research.
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