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Old 06-24-2009, 12:02 PM
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Vacuum Canister?

My car only pulls 9Hg of vaccum and my power brakes arent working for ****. I was wondering if anyone has used a vacuum canister before? Does it work? Waste of $?

Also heres my other dilemma, the Edelbrock RPM manifold has only 1 port for PCV on the back of the manifold, only problem is you cant fit anything in the port with a holley carb:
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_0081.jpg

What would be the best way to go around that? I was thinking of tapping the sidewall of the manifold going into the plenum and just putting a 3/8" fitting in there. to connect my PCV properly as thats also effecting my brakes. I have my PCV and brake line Tee'd together but thats also hurting the brakes. I cant fit a spacer either unless I get a cowl hood.

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Old 06-24-2009, 01:43 PM
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I`ve never used a vac canister, but there was a very hot Oldsmobile cutlass, early 70`s model at the repair shop my brother in law worked at. It had a 455 with alot of performance mods. It had a vac canister and it didn`t seem to help at all power brakes wise. I`ve heard of adapting vacuum pumps I believe off caddy`s for this purpose.
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Old 06-24-2009, 02:38 PM
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I wouldnt think on such a mild application I would need a pump?
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Old 06-24-2009, 04:01 PM
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I can't say I've done it, but if I were you, I'd hook the pcv up to the carbs large tap to spread the pcv gasses to all cylinders instead of just 4, like you would if you tapped into the side of the plenum.
I believe you could tap the plenum for the brake booster, but the wall is pretty thin on the passenger side. Well it is on mine anyways, the driverside is allot thicker but you'd have to deal with the carb linkage. After you drilled the correct size hole for the pipe thread tap(NPT), only run the tap in for a short distance and try your fitting for fit. The pipe tap has a taper to it, so that if you just ran it in a little ways, the fitting wouldn't screw in so far as to be in the way of any fuel mixture flow if you know what I mean. I don't know if it would matter or not, but thats the way I would try it first. Like I said, the wall is pretty thin, and you would have to have a real steady hand or possibly use a drill to hold the tap, but be careful that it doesn't turn too fast and make the threads too deep!
After you got your fitting in the way you want, run a hose to a one way check valve before it gets to the vacuum reservoir, then from res. to booster.
You would have to be pretty desperate before you try what I suggested!
I know what your talking about as far as not having enough clearance for the fitting in the normal place on an air gap intake. I had to buy a 1/2" spacer myself. Don't know if its gonna clear the hood for sure yet.
Hopefully someone else will chime in with a better method. Good Luck!
ssmonty
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Old 06-24-2009, 04:26 PM
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1. Use a 1/2" spacer, drill and tap it for the booster line.
2. Vacuum pump.
3. Hydra-boost brake system.
4. Manual brakes with smaller diameter master cylinder and altered pedal ratio (6 or 7 to 1 instead of the 4 to 1 power brake ratio).

Just throwin' out stuff off the top of my head.
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:47 PM
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I had the same problem you have with my edelbrock performer air gap to where my quickfuel carb would it the fitting and I tapped into my one inch spacer on the passenger side and it works like a charm with no issues.
Eric
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:50 PM
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Well if I could fit a spacer I would believe me, I'll head to the hardware store tomorrow and see what I can come up with fitting wise.

Thanks for the help.

Any clue how expensive it is swapping to hydroboost brakes?
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84TA406
Well if I could fit a spacer I would believe me, I'll head to the hardware store tomorrow and see what I can come up with fitting wise.

Thanks for the help.

Any clue how expensive it is swapping to hydroboost brakes?
Bolt on Hydroboost kits can be fairly expensive. If you piece the parts together yourself it can be done much cheaper. Many use the Astro van Hydroboost unit with correct sized master cylinder and then do your own plumbing. Most of what's needed can be found on Ebay.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:16 AM
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Well looks like the T/A is going to be sitting for another summer.

Oh well what can ya do sometimes?
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:33 AM
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With the Engine I'm going to have in my Car, vacuum will be an issue too (I believe)-I'm looking at buying one of these-anybody tried one?

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Old 06-26-2009, 08:28 PM
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Ive got low vac as well on my engine and have had a canister for roughly 18 years and it solved my problem. I have a vac gauge in the dash which is showing my canister vac at all times just for giggles (but it does let me know that I have no leaks as well). The canister will get, and hold, a good amount and then dip down when you apply the brakes. Without the canister I can hardly stop. My car is an 86 gm monte carlo. It regains the vac within a few seconds

Price?? That aluminum one is pretty but not doing much more than the cheapest "can". Mine is some ugly yellow coffee can sized canister with a one way valve keeping the "hg" in the can

EDIT: ooops, youre showing a vac pump I think, I was referring to the aluminum canisters they sell.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:33 PM
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Yeah the canister I was going to pick up was just a black one like you described. Maybe it's worth trying out.
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Old 06-26-2009, 10:00 PM
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I just pulled my brand new vacuum pump off because it ws very loud and the vibaration was too much for me. I put on a vacuum can I had from another build and all is good. I have even run 2 cans before when I had a very large cam and it also worked fine for years.
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