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Old 01-02-2006, 07:25 PM
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Valspar Omega Single stage Good? Bad?

Just wanted some input on the longevity, Touch up, sanding and buffing of Valsper omega series. I used this paint on a 40" steel hull boat today I usually use PPG Concept but switched to this on this job to cut down material costs since I needed so much material. It seemed to flow out nice and has a tremendous amount of gloss but I just wondered about the above mentioned items. I always like to try something different just to make sure I'm not just stuck in a comfort zone and paying for it.

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Old 01-02-2006, 08:24 PM
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Hi I recently used the SS Omega2k paint from valspar. After a few kinks with the viscosity of the paint, i.e not reducing enough etc, I found it to be real nice to spray on.

For cut and buff "color sanding" , i used the following methods.

Lightly color sanded using a palm type da with a Mirka Abralon 500 grit disk
loaded with water.

Moved up to a 1000 grit then 2000 grit using the same make disks by mirka.
"Noting short of a joy to use, they blow regular sandpaper away IMHO for color sanding."

Compound with Presta ultra cutting cream light then finish with presta 1500
polish. I used the presta wool pads on my polisher which seemed to do a good job.

Deep shine / no orange peel. Paint turns out very nice.

Not sure how long it will last as its my first time using it. Im sure though
it will be fine as valspar make good products. I let the paint dry for about
48hours before color sanding.

I agree that when the paint drys there is a high gloss to it but since I had
some orange peel I resorted to cut and buff with good results using the above methods.

Best regards X
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Old 01-02-2006, 08:47 PM
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I'm a Valspar jobber so I'm partial.
You'll find the durability, buffing and colorsanding to be similar to PPG DAU (that's what I used before switching). It is not as hard as DuPont Imron which for me was difficult to buff the one time I used it. We've been selling it for 2 1/2 years now and we haven't seen a failure yet. The only complaints I've had have been orange peel related and were rectified with changes in reducer speed and amount. You'll have the same difficulties with touchup as any SSU. It's not always easy to make that spray edge of the blend dissapear.

Larry
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Old 01-02-2006, 08:59 PM
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Hi Larry, from your experience with it did you find you had to reduce more
than the 10% that they state on the data sheet. I also found that their
fast activator is pretty slow in the 65 to 70 degree window. Like it took
about 45mins for the paint to be un tacky to the touch.

Got better results with the warp speed activator. I also found that the actual activators change the viscosity of the paint. I.E make it thicker, reducing with
a medium or valspar 171 reducer seemed to work ok.

The paint can and will produce a fair amount of orange peel right out of the
can which can be a surprise to even a seasoned painter.

Any insight much appreciated.

Thanks ... X
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Old 01-02-2006, 09:26 PM
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Yes, many times you have to reduce more than the 10% called for. One of my customers has a gun that he favors for shooting the SSU because it lays better for him. So orifice size can make a difference too.
There's a couple things that effect the viscosity. The first is the particular color. Tints are thinner than the binders so a red color will end up less viscous than say a white because there's a ton more tint in the red paint. The second is the reduction in the can before you get it. The SSU formulas almost always call for some reducer. But some of us don't use the reducer and replace it with binder. This gives the customer more coverage but it requires more reduction by the end user. In any event, it is common to over-reduce and I haven't seen any negative effects. I always tell customers to reduce to 'taste', hopeing they won't take me literally!

The data sheets are all based on 77 degrees. That's really unrealistic for most the county. I shoot at about 68-70 and use either HPC2 or HPC3(warp) depending on how big the job is. Many customers prefer the warp speed mainly for collision work. HPC2 seems to be the choice for overalls during the winter. Your correct, the activator can change the viscosity as well.

Larry
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:04 PM
X711
 
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Yep I agree, I found using the hpc2 the flash off time was way slow at 68
degrees hence I used the warp. To keep the peel low I found its better to build light coats as opposed to laying it on and hoping it will flow. The actual paint does not really flow per say like similar brands of SS but once it sets up it produces a pretty impressive DOI. For lighter colors its better to apply the first couple of coats a little dry just to build color, then follow up with two wet coats.

I use a 1.4 gun with it and reduce to about 18 seconds with a zahn2 cup.

I also found that after mixing the activator in its a real good idea to put the final mixture in a can and shake the living hell out of it to make sure all the activator is properly mixed in, at that point put the stuff in the gun and have at it.

All in all it has a few quirks, but produces very nice results at a fair price.

Thanks ... X
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Old 01-03-2006, 06:39 AM
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Thanks for all the input. I'm happy with the paint.I'm also using the HPC2. I also used a 1.3 tip there is a little orange peel but I expected a little being ss On the smaller stuff I always use base/clears so I don't get the chance to use ss very often. I switched to other brands in the BC I always used PPG products until the cost seem to just get higher with no breaks for buying in larger quantities.

Thanks Brad
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