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Value of 84 K5 blazer
Short Verion:
So how much would you offer? 305v8 3.08 gears wierd wobbly steering column (see video, looks like a pic of sterring wheel inside film at link) rust is repariable paint is trash interior is mint good rubber back window goes down halfway into tailgate before going crooked and wierd. Typical issue with these vehicles though. The Long Version: It has a 305v8; the cats seem to have long since ran away from it, and the stock crappy muffler gave way to glasspacks that sound real "bad" in a good way that says "honey, I'm home" from a mile away It also has 3.08 gears, so I doubt it was ordered for serious off roading much, but would make a nice cruiser/first project/parts chaser. Yea I know I have the Javelin, but I want to learn on something not as bad (rustwise) and that is driveable besides a bad brake line. Fix it up and have a little fun, then get to business on the big project. It's present owner is my uncle; and he's looking to sell it. I was thinking around $2000 would be fair. Any place to start bargaining or any input would be appreciated. -Matthew Oh yea, here's the link below : Warning: I took a lot of pics, to get a better overall feel of the condition of the truck; so no criticism on random pics of the dashboard or carpet or anything. Yes this thread has pics! Last edited by ChevelleSS_LS6; 05-31-2006 at 09:00 PM. Reason: added link! d'oh! |
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I have always liked the full size K5 blazers, I would say if it has a good running gear in it, it should be worth 2k. The 305 is a downer. I say low ball him (I know he's family) but you can always go up in price not down. Also on the plus side you can buy most every part offered for a Blazer through the catalogs. Did he give you a price. If not make him tell you what he wants for it.
Steve |
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nice truck. its worth 2k. on the steering column that woble is probably the tilt wheel springs wich should be no big problem to fix. the truck looks solid overall but just be carefull any rust you see is usually 3 times worse on the other side. but even with that said its worth fixing up as long as it runs good. you can get any parts you need to fix it realativly cheap so i say good luck....
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I gave my sister an 84 a while back. It was in great shape, New 700, new target master and absolutely no rust, with a 2year old paint. I put 305 heads on it and it was getting a decent 16mpg. She sold it for a $1000.00. I am still mad about that one.
John |
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Your pic asked what carb that was, its a quadrajet. Generally not a bad carburator, but the 80's version had the idle-air adjustment screws removed and was not adjustable. Also, they tend to leak from the bowls (if I remember correctly). I had one on my ramcharger, same truck, only different. In any event, you can count on replacing or rebuilding it pretty promptly.
You may quickly find out that a truck that looks "ok" and seems "decent" really needs a lot more work than you think. First off, I can almost promise you that the front end needs to be rebuilt. Tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings, dampner (if it has one) probably the axle joints and whatnot as well. Many times the axle seals go bad on those as well, as well as the pinion seal. For some reason the transmissions on the bigger trucks seem to take a beating over the years, check the operation of that. Also, many times you'll get transfer-case issues on those too. It all depends on what you want to do with it. For a daily driver you're more than likely looking at a lot of work to make sure its safe and reliable. Remember that the truck is 25 years old. There's probably not much on it that doesn't need work. K |
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Around here...you are lucky to get $1'000 out it...more realistically would be $500-$800.
But I bet he would let you have it for 2g's...LOL! Later, WEIMER |
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After seeing the rust on the seat brackets and along the carpet, I would definitly pull the carpet up to look at that and from the bottom. Its not to good when you see the brackets rusting to
And if you get it, alot of those emission hoses are bogus is you do a few upgrades. Myself I slap headers and an exhaust on it and get rid of the AIR pump, then just a decent carb and intake swap and clear off some more of that stuff. Unless you need to pass emmissions. Also be weary of those vent windows. As nice as it is to have them, the ones on my truck are a pain in the butt. Mine have always whistled and leaked, and have been more of a pain rather than a luxury. Brad |
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More news: didn't call my uncle to ask about his blazer or peek under the carpet much; but one of my girl-space-friend's boyfriend has one with a crappy body for $500. Why is this important? It has a GM Goodwrench 350 with a Crane rv cam, rebuilt tranny, new axles; 3.73 gears, a 4-inch lift, and u-joints. The engine was put in/trans rebuilt was rebuilt 40k ago, and the axles/ujoints are about a year old; the guy was going to keep it as a 'muddin truck' but he really doesn't drive it (of course, the body is serious crap on it). I talked with him and he said that he'd help me swap the 350/3.73s/lift kit into the one my uncle has, and the 305/3.08 gears into the one with the crappy body.
Before I make any real decisions, I'm gonna go back out and check out my uncle's blazer and see how solid it is on the backside of the sheetmetal and floors. -Matthew Last edited by ChevelleSS_LS6; 06-03-2006 at 04:39 PM. |
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hell for 500 dollars you ought to just get the other one. If you end up not using/wanting it, part it out. Bet you'd get 2 grand off the parts.
K |
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