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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2012, 05:54 PM
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no light yet ,, valves are adjusted i did 2 times once to get running and again after i let it run for awhile ,, hyd lifters
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 04:34 AM
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Just found out that they are 2 adjustments on the dizzy, first the large bolt to 0 and then i need to set the dizzy with a small screw, i guess because i installed the elect points i need to adjust the small screw?*
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by lilrobo View Post
Just found out that they are 2 adjustments on the dizzy, first the large bolt to 0 and then i need to set the dizzy with a small screw, i guess because i installed the elect points i need to adjust the small screw?*
Thanks
when moveing the dist after loosening the screw be sure the dist is pushed down all the way,as if not the gear will be meshed and drive the dist,but not the oil pump,or just haveing a small amount of the flat in place and down the road stop driveing oil p. is the vacume advance working,suck on the line to be sur no leakes.cliff
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 08:55 AM
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Just a thought,, could i be out 180 deg,,, and it still run? and would the BB and the rotor button still line up in both places? !,,
Just a thought
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 09:56 AM
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Just a thought,, could i be out 180 deg,,, and it still run? and would the BB and the rotor button still line up in both places? !,,
Just a thought
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If the BB in the flywheel is visable through the hole, and the rotor is pointing to terminal #1, you are NOT 180 degrees out.

But like TI said above, if you've run out of room to turn the distributor further to get the timing advanced enough, you need to lift the distributor up again and turn the rotor a bit to give you more adjustment. OR move the wires one position towards the direction that will give you back adjustability. That way you don't have to worry about the oil pump drive shaft alignment.

In case the vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum, be sure to disconnect and plug the line to the engine before setting the timing.
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:00 AM
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ok thanks for that info ,, so right now i have the dizzy all the way to the left ,, does that mean move the wires around 1 placement to the right ??
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:13 PM
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Yeahh we are getting somewere now thansk to all the guys that spoon feed me i am real close now, , what i did was move the plug wires on cap and loosen the small screw on dizzy and got it lined up it almost starts with no gas, ,, time for timing light and vac guage

thanks so much guys
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 04:39 PM
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update right now i can get it to run , but not real good , when i rev it up the dizzy dont turn now , i did something i guess and i see that i have a vac leak around 1 of the intake ports to head , i sprayed some wd-40 and it idled up ,, wow this supost to be a simple rebuild ,, my luck if it can it does
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:51 PM
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update right now i can get it to run , but not real good , when i rev it up the dizzy dont turn now , i did something i guess and i see that i have a vac leak around 1 of the intake ports to head , i sprayed some wd-40 and it idled up ,, wow this supost to be a simple rebuild ,, my luck if it can it does
The distributor should rotate if the vacuum advance is working right.

Be sure the vacuum line is good (I'm sure you have already), check to see that the vacuum advance is holding a vacuum. You can pull a vacuum on the hose by mouth and cover the hose w/the tip of your tongue. It should hold vacuum. Or use a vacuum pump if you have one handy.

Be sure where the vacuum advance arm attaches to the distributor isn't in a bind. A lack of advance can make the engine run sluggish.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 05:59 PM
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Iam going to have to pull the dizzy its hard to see anything the way it is, ,its way down there,,but i will pull it and lub everything up,, i still have to address the vac leak at the intake, would that make it run bad?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2012, 06:09 PM
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Iam going to have to pull the dizzy its hard to see anything the way it is, ,its way down there,,but i will pull it and lub everything up,, i still have to address the vac leak at the intake, would that make it run bad?
Yes, absolutely! It can also lean out the cylinder(s) where the leak is and that can cause detonation- something you definitely want to avoid.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2012, 01:08 PM
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Well i had the intake and exhaust milled together and it looks good, , but i also found out that the gasket that goes from intake to carb has cracks, , i tried to find one but the one i have is about 5/8 thick and the parts house want to sell me a normal one 1/8 thick, ,, whats up with that? ?

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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2012, 04:29 PM
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they all said i could ( fel 9519 ) its a reg gasket so i dont know ??
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2012, 04:03 PM
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i glued mine for now i ordered one it will be in a few days but for now i can get it running and figure out the dizzy why its not advacing

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