[dukin-it-out]

just curious, i replaced the head on my 2.5L iron duke (88 S-10) and i tightened down the rocker arms, and all the valves open.. after loosening all of them so there is a small amount of lash, run it for a minute, and shut it down, i have more lash, so anyways, i got them down most of the way, but it still seems as if theyre staying a little open at TDC (not good)

I saw in the other posts they said to roll the pushrod in your fingers, and then go 1\2 or 1\4 turn, to tighten it up, but if i set that, it would still be finger tight probobly, as with any bolts, especially important valvetrain bolts, i dont want those things falling out, im assuming that 1\4 or 1\2 turn would be at least 15ftlbs, and my spec on my engine is about 26 i think.

Anyways... is it normal for the valves to be a little open when installing a new head and pushrods? will they seat after a couple miles?

Thank you everyone for listening to my poor duke story

[gt2betubbed]

When you are doing this, are you making sure that the cylinder is on TDC for what valves you are working on?

The 1/2 turn once tension is felt is when using hydraulic lifters. That's what I used and never worried about torque specs. Do you have stock stamped rockers? I wouldn't worry about them getting loose on you, since they'll be making noise if it happens. Your bigger concern is making sure you're adjusting them correctly...

Oh yeah, and it's not normal for the valves to be open, that's why I asked if you were adjusting them correctly. Be careful, because you could flatten out that cam.
What's the specs on the cam?

[dukin-it-out]

What's the specs on the cam?..... its a stock hyd camshaft, so i have no idea, whatever came stock in the 88 chevy S-10 with the 2.5L


what i have been doing, is turning the engine over by hand, and watching when one valve comes closed, turning it about 1\4 crank, and making sure that another valve isnt going to open, and then adjusting them there... just to make sure there shouldnt be any tesnsion on them. I realize bringing it up to TDC would be the correct way, but i assumed it would be the same concidering there isnt any valve lift going on.

Tomorrow morning im going to take the valvecover and do the ol when it clicks turn it back 1\4, as long as there is some tension on the bolt, im not going to worry about it. (thank you for pointing out, that i will hear it if its off, i forgot about the obvious)

im going to let it warm up... shut it off... let it cool back down, and let it warm up again, since it hasnt even had a chance to hit operating temp yet. It runs fairly smoothe, so im not scared to let it run for a while... everytime i run it, it seems to get better, is this normal valve seating or just my brain not working correctly?


Thank you!

[gt2betubbed]

Use this method. I found it on another thread from 1BAD. It's the easiest way I've ever seen of adjusting valves. Follow this, and you shouldn't have to worry about it ever again. Good luck!

How to adjust valves

[BstMech]

Are these rockers even adjustable on your motor? The torque values you mentioned sound like that of non adjustable stud type assemblies that are easily mistaken for adjustable. Except the obviousness of the nut turning to easy until bottomed out on the stud. Which sounds like what you're describing.

[dukin-it-out]

everything is gravy with the duke, i just trashed the #1 plug, and checked all but that one (trashed = aka something flew into the intake and bumped around in the cyl and messed up the plug... have no idea what it is, im looking forward to pulling off the cat and finding out what it was im a curious person... maybe it was a squirell? or a long lost brother?



Thanks everyone