While it should be OK, you'd be better off actually verifying it yourself.
Here's a list of some areas that need to be verified to be OK.
Springs for installed height
Coil bind (+/= 0.040” between all coils)
Retainer to seal/ valve guide boss at full lift
Retainer to rocker
Trunnion to stud boss
Piston to valve clearance (both before and after TDC on overlap)
Push rod to guide slot in head (if used)
Can use EITHER self aligning rockers OR pushrod guide slots in head OR guide plates, not two or more of these at the same time
”Rails” of self adjusting rockers (if used) to retainer
Rocker to valve tip (by adjusting guide plates if used)
Rocker slot to stud (if using stamped/cast rockers w/pivot balls)
Proper geometry (push rod length)
Rocker/polyloc to valve cover or baffle
Camshaft endplay
Distributor shaft and gear endplay
Distributor gear material compatible with cam material
Hydraulic lifter preload
Timing set phasing
Cam gear to crank gear alignment
Cam gear end play if roller cam
If using the SBC OEM roller lifters and retainers (aka dogbones), lobe lift must be kept below 0.354” so the lifters don’t lose contact w/the retainers
Cam lobe to connecting rod on strokers
Probably something else I'm missing. But it has to be physically checked, you should not take it on faith or by figuring it out on paper.
It looks worse than it actually is. The MAIN things to watch for is getting the pushrod length correct to have the valve train geometry right, and the piston to valve clearance checked to be adaquate. Depending on the exact rockers you use, be sure there's clearance between them and the spring retainers. If you use 1.6 rockers, be sure that this is taken into consideration. If you use stamped steel rockers, be sure the slots are long enough.
But as you go through the list you'll see things that do not pertain to your build.
The other things like open and seat spring pressures, coil bind height and max lift and such will have been published in the specs for your heads. Be sure they jibe w/the specs of your cam and they will be good to go.
"HOPEFULLY" you don't waste a $1000 dollars fixing the heads and pistons because you didn't check. Your call.....
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