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Old 10-05-2007, 02:29 PM
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That`s why I never adjust valves with the engine on the stand, too easy to get me confused on where I`m at, besides, I can get it done faster with it running, and if I want it to land dead on the money I use a vacuum gauge while adjusting. Nice of you to say there are some real knowledgeable guys on this site, as that is more than very true. I`m not one of`em but I get by.

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Old 10-05-2007, 08:08 PM
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re:valve lash

Thanks DOUBLEVISION. The old fashioned vacuum gauge is the best tool to identify engine misfires. I worked on a 1996 Mitsubishi Mirage for codes for misfires that was at another shop for a month. The customer was told it was most likely a plug wire or cap or rotor. They had already installed spark plugs, 2 Cat's, 2 O'2 sensor's, and had it at the dealer for a computer reprogram. It had a miss at first start in the morning. I shut it off and installed a vacuum gauge and re-started it. Guess what, a valve lash adjustment cured it.

Note: this car is junk. Even the Dealer could not get the Readiness Monitors to set to ready to be able to pass smog. The computer is going to sleep, and the cost of a new one would excede the value of the car. Glad I don't work at that shop, my shop's landlord's son owns that shop, and boy is he mad.

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Old 09-16-2012, 12:52 AM
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Valve adjustment

Notorious explained valve adjustment well.
I would add, watching the valves as you turn the engine to adjust the next pair in firing order is OK, but, on an 8 Cylinder that would be 1/4 turn, on an inline 6 it would be 1/3 turn, and a 4 Cylinder 1/2 turn.
I confirm the timing mark on balancer is correct then put a dot on it straight across from the tdc mark then half way between those and you have four evenly spaced reference points. A little bit off will not matter because of the lifters being on the heal of cam when you set them.
Turn engine two times and you are done.
I could get into push rod length and a lot of info on valve train but another time.
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