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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2005, 08:30 PM
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I had the EXACT same problem installing roller rocker arms on a ford 302 stud mount hydralic lifters, after I fully adjusted one rocker arm and secured the poly lock I turned the engine over by hand to start on the next rocker when i noticed that the same rocker i just adjusted got back loose again but not as loose as you mentioned for yours my rocker was just moving side to side and pushrod was able to twirl around, I still have not resolved my problem for this, Ill give you any info as soon as possible

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2005, 08:50 PM
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damn this will need an High scool to do that


soak lifter/pusrod/rocker in oil
Install all lifter/pusrod/rocker tight it until they stop "fell tigh" don't overtigh !
rotate the engine some degree
tight all rocker until they stop "fell tigh" don't overtigh !
rotate engine some degree
tight all rocker until they stop "fell tigh" don't overtigh !

repeat until you do 2 turn of the crank (around 8/10 times).
Your all set, put valve cover then run !

This is the way i do for a SBC...
What's a mess to adjust when engine running...
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2005, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COUGARPOWER
I had the EXACT same problem installing roller rocker arms on a ford 302 stud mount hydralic lifters, after I fully adjusted one rocker arm and secured the poly lock I turned the engine over by hand to start on the next rocker when i noticed that the same rocker i just adjusted got back loose again but not as loose as you mentioned for yours my rocker was just moving side to side and pushrod was able to twirl around, I still have not resolved my problem for this, Ill give you any info as soon as possible
Today I set the rockers on a Mustang Gt with GT40 heads and roller tip rockers. The guide plates had plastic inserts to prevent sideloading / might look into that.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboS10
Hold the phone!! Everyone cover their toes cause I am about to start stomping...... We have covered this many times. Chiltons is a piss poor way to set lash as is the method with the engine running. The only proper way to set lash is one cylinder at a time when the engine is on the stand before it is fired. You set the exhaust valve when the intake valve opens and has about half closed and the intake valve as the exhaust starts to open. What this does is insure that the valve is on the back side of the lobe opposite the ramp. Using chiltons method you have some valves that are actually starting to open. This is especially true for engines with agressive cam profiles. Using the running method you either beat the piss out of the BRAND NEW cam while it is breaking or you let it idle while you set the valves....either is bad.

If you set the valves properly one cylinder at a time you can go 1/4-1/4 turn past zero lash and you are set from now on. I never take the valve covers off of an engine once I have cranked it unless something is wrong and have never had an issue with not having the valves set properly.

Chris
AMEN Chris,

This is the only way to properly do the valve lash adjustment. It may look hard for some people, when in fact it is much easier and far more adequate.

Albert

Last edited by BLACKBOWTIE; 02-19-2009 at 01:01 PM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:54 PM
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Valve lash adjustment...

HI GUYS,, For those die hard who run these engines to adjust lash, you can cut out a old set of covers that gives you access to the stud nut. It uses a gasket too. We use them to check worn cam. Stickman is right !!!! 327/350 hp
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2009, 08:04 PM
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This thread is over 4 years old!!!
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 05-11-2009, 10:12 AM
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blackbowties fault.. the second time now that this thread has been brought back from the dead wow..
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