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65galaxie500 11-05-2002 01:02 PM

valve prob
one of my valve stems has been mushroomed at the end causing too much play between it and the rocker arm. ive got an idea on how to fix it without taking the head off, but id like your feedback about my idea and that is to grind off the mushroomed part and fabricate a sort of cap that would fit over the stem and make up the length difference causing there to be no gap between it and the rocker arm. does this idea swim or sink?

BstMech 11-05-2002 02:04 PM

Like a lash cap, I would have to say no. Are the rockers pedestal mount or rack mount? :)

woodz428 11-05-2002 02:35 PM

Although it's not the best solution if it's a low rpm engine it should work, there are plenty of lash caps made that would probably fit. I'm assuming it's an FE because that solution wouldn't be neccesary with a smallblock or 385 series.

65galaxie500 11-05-2002 07:15 PM

yes its an f.e. and it is rack mounted rockers. so im geussing they already make something to remedy my problem?

BstMech 11-05-2002 07:36 PM

Well, that kinda blows my idea out of the water (rack mounted). Maybe it would be easier to repair/grind the tip of the valve flat/smooth, and replace the rocker then take a lash reading. Add say add .020" or .030" to it and get a longer pushrod of that difference. I'm sure ther's some out there, or you can have one made. :) Oh yeah, you don't have a collapsed lifter do ya'?

[ November 05, 2002: Message edited by: BstMech ]</p>

65galaxie500 11-06-2002 10:00 AM

no i dont believe the lifter is collapsed. the motor runs great i just get a bit of a ticking out of the valve cover, i am concerned about what would have caused this though. thanks for all the advice.

4 Jaw Chuck 11-06-2002 03:06 PM

If this is one problem you can see there are sure to be more once you get the head off. I would pull the heads and rebuild them, no need to spend time and money on something that may only last 5000 miles. I know money is tight but realistically you could be throwing good money after bad if you don't do it right the first time.

This is how I justify these kinds of things to myself;

-A die grinder could accidentally fall into the ports and open them up.

-Larger valves might find their way into the valve guide and inadvertantly create more power.

-You know you want to see the tops of the pistons.

-Since the intake has to come off, the casting could become porous and need replacing with an aluminum one...four barrel of course!

-The original cast iron exhaust manifolds could be full of carbon requiring replacement with tubular steel versions. Hey you ever price an original cast iron manifold from the factory? Headers are cheap by comparison.

-Pistons carboned up and need to be scraped clean meaning you can run lower octane fuel saving you $$$$.

Ahhhh who am I trying to kid, You must replace those heads with 427 low riser versions. The car will not run right without them. :D :p

BstMech 11-06-2002 04:22 PM

Those are the kind of things I tell my wife! "Honey, since I need this part anyway, I might as well change this one while I'm at it, and I'll just throw in a few more dollars and get the 'better quality' (speed parts).........

When I built my 350 I told her "It should only cost about 500 dollars to rebiuld", after about 1200 dollars she was pi$$ed. ;)

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