I was assembling my 403 and I noticed a wiggle on the exhaust valves, only a slight wiggle, but enough for me to notice.
I measured the Inner Diameter of the bores and they are out to .347-.348. The ID of the bores on the intake guides were .343-.344 or normal size.
The used valves I have all measure .341
I dont want to face it, but I think I need a valve guide job on my heads for the exhaust. Does anybody know what the exceptable clearance is for valve guides-to-valve stem? and are there valves out there that have oversized stems so I dont have to get a guide job? The swirls are still visible in the stems and they dont look worn, but the gap is a bit large.
Thanks, I am also reading up that some people use oversized or sometimes chrome plated valve stems, does anyone know where I can get them, or get this process done? And I was in the middle of assembling the engine
Do the heads have cast in guides where the valve guide is a part of the head? or are they pressed in guides? If they are pressed in you could get them replaced and installed for pretty cheap. I would not get different valves they will be expensive and once the guides start to wear they go fast. Yes it's time for a guide job.
They are thee original valve guides, Iron. And they look to be part of the head (Olds 5A). So I guess they would have to be drilled and liners installed, but I wanted to keep the original swirl pattern inside the guides. This sucks it just isnt my night!
EDIT: but at least the other head had normal size bores except for one and that one was .345. These came off the same engine.
Why spend the money. I would suggest that you get the valve( or head) from the same yard you get your main caps and rod caps from. It will probably smoke some...maybe miss, but then it will stop once the rod lets go.Those "swirl" marks may just be the past repair called knurling, you can only do it once and then only on guides that aren't too worn.Where does a guy that uses random rod caps and main caps on an engine come up with a valve guide mike? You are concerned about thousandths on the head but told someone else to just piece together a bottom end on a 2000 car with junk yard parts. Sounds like you're posing again...Poser.
no-name Joe off the street.
Why spend the money. I would suggest that you get the valve( or head) from the same yard you get your main caps and rod caps from. It will probably smoke some...maybe miss, but then it will stop once the rod lets go.Those "swirl" marks may just be the past repair called knurling, you can only do it once and then only on guides that aren't too worn.Where does a guy that uses random rod caps and main caps on an engine come up with a valve guide mike? You are concerned about thousandths on the head but told someone else to just piece together a bottom end on a 2000 car with junk yard parts. Sounds like you're posing again...Poser.
no-name Joe off the street.
You really are a moron arent you? Those swirl marks are an "oldsmobile" thing. They promote oil flow down the valve guide so it can lubricate where it is needed. You have obviously never worked on an olds before have you? Hell you probably think you can adjust the rockers on an olds head too, LOL!
I have had it with you! You do not seem to know anthing useful and I'm reporting you to the a moderator.
If you would also READ the past post on the mustang conversion, I posted my proof, so wheres yours? Haynes seems to agree with me, yes that thing called a manual. Go back to school.
And here's what I was talking about when I said olds has swirls down the guide shaft:
This is why I dont want to replace the guides, but I talked to the local machine shop that hot tanked them and they said they would put new guides in for $40.00 So I guess I'm gonna have to
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