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Old 09-04-2006, 02:07 PM
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Vega Engine Compartment Wiring

Hi
Just installed a fresh 383 stroker in my 74 Vega and I need this wiring correct to fire up first crack for a proper break-in.I'm getting mental thinking about this engine compartment wiring and I sure could use help.Here's what's been done.
1)
I've relocated the battery to the trunk and added a battery kill switch.The switch has the positive battery wire and the starter wire connected on one side.The other side of the switch has a 10 gauge wire from the alternator.The battery negative is well grounded.
2)
Now the engine compartment,it's been hacked a bit by the previous owners.The starter wire loom has (2) 10 gauge wires in it,one connects to the fusebox at the firewall and the other was connected to a buss?? terminal.The solenoid wire is O.K.
3)
I've eliminated the wire from the buss? terminal and hooked the fuse box wire to the main starter connection,BUT this will not allow me to turn off all power,when it's disconnected I CAN turn off all power from my battery kill switch

What should I do?? - Hoonbash

Link to Vega wiring diagram
http://www.v8monza.com/voodoo_perf/v...EngineComp.jpg
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Old 09-04-2006, 04:48 PM
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Doc here,

Bare With me here..I got blown offline from server traffic being too high.. ...and lost my train of thought..(I JUST hate when that happens..)

If I read the post right, Your E Shut~off is not operating properly...If I read the post correctly,

It is Wired WRONG..

The Positive Cable and Starter "B" Cable SHOULD not be on the same side of the switch..(Why have one then?) ..Just canceling the alternator IS NOT going to shut it down..Which is all your doing when you turn the E~Switch off..

Put the Battery cable on one terminal as well as the Alternator wire (UNLESS the E~Switch has a second set of ISOLATED terminals for Alternator connection), and the 00 gauge Cable to the Starter on the other..MOVE the Fuse Buss / Link Wires BACK to the Starter Cable in the Front..

If you want a more accurate remote sensing for the alternator, run a 10 gauge red back to the terminal where the 00 gauge cable attach's to the small red on the alternator..(this will activate the regulator faster / more often, taking into account for any voltage drops in the system)

On the Wires in the engine bay, Traditionally, you should find, wire and link for the Ignition switch "Hot at all times", The Unswitched fuse Buss, and the Alternator output. That's where those should Continuity check to.

Doc
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:35 PM
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Thanks for the reply Doc as I can see your a very busy man and you did read my post correctly.

I've moved the Fuse Buss/Link back to the starter,I've put the battery cable and 10 gauge alternator wire together on one side of the 2 terminal E~switch and the lone starter wire on the other terminal.I can see my underdash volt-meter gauge from the back and in this configuration when the E~switch is turned the car still has full- power to everything.

But when the alternator wire is placed on the starter wire side of the switch I can kill all power.

Something is throwing me off here,should I not be looking at my voltage gauge?
Thanks again Doc-Hoonbash
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:47 PM
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Doc here,

You have something (probably attached to the alternator circuit) suppling power to the car ...

When the switch is off..NOTHING should have power to the Body..(unless the switch is defective.) Do you have a second set of contacts for the alternator wire? (most do..) If not you will have to power a solenoid from the E~Switch "On position" to activate it..

If you pull that wire off (Alternator) I'll bet you'll find everything goes dead..may want to back track that..

The downside is you can't just move it to the other side of the e~Stop" ..it (the alternator) will provide power in place of the battery to the ignition when the E~stop is activated, and not shut down the engine.

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Old 09-04-2006, 08:45 PM
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The switch I have only has 2 major contacts,Here it is on E-Slay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BATTE...22582957QQrdZ1.
Your right about the alternator wire going dead,with one end connected to the alternator and the other end free-standing power can be switched on/off.

"If not you will have to power a solenoid from the E~Switch "On position" to
activate it.."
I'm sorry I don't know what your talking about here,hopefully it's not too involved

Should I find a kill-switch with multiple contacts? I'm wondering if that would help.
Thanks-Hoonbash

Last edited by Hoonbash; 09-04-2006 at 08:53 PM. Reason: add-ons
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Old 09-04-2006, 11:58 PM
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Doc here,

OK , that switch has no provision for the Alternator circuit.

What you need is a solenoid similar to a Ford type Starter Solenoid, That is 100% duty cycle rated..


Ford type solenoid (intermittent use only)

Ford types are not..they are intermittent use, (start, relax key , off..) and Heat when run Continueosly..a marine or industrial type solenoids works well for this..

Just hook the solenoid coil (S terminal shown) to either of the terminals on the side (big ones) that you pick to run a cable to the "On" side of the E~Switch..The left over big terminal will connect to the Alternator circuits.

In this manner, when you hit the E~stop, it will open the battery to the body, the solenoid will dropout at the Solenoid coil, and the connection will open to the alternator..Hence, everything is shut off AND dead..(Alternator can't cause run on ).

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Old 09-05-2006, 07:15 PM
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Doc

I think I found the problem.There's the original wire from the back of the alternator that goes to the buss terminal? on the firewall,then a wire goes from the buss terminal to the starter.When the original alternator wire is disconnected and the 10 gauge alternator wire I made-up is hooked to the battery side of the E~switch everything works as it should.

There should be no way now for the alternator to supply power for run-on when the E~switch is flipped to off,correct??
Hoonbash
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Old 09-05-2006, 07:44 PM
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Doc here,

Sounds like it..

I think you found a duplicated wire and removed the problem..

Just check to be sure the system is charging when running and you should be OK.

try it, If you get run on..post back , we'll address that issue as well!

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Old 09-05-2006, 08:11 PM
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Doc

I've been lurking in the shadows here for a little while and it's obvious your patience and understanding are unsurpassed!! Class-Act all the way

Keep On Keepin' On

Hoonbash
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