[equayonv]

I have for almost two (2) years been building a 3-wheel motorcycle using a Chevy S-10 2.8L engine, 700R4 tranny, and rear end.

I recently purchased a Verijet Carburetor with an automatic choke that I have put on it.

The choke has only one (1) wire hook up and I need to know what I need to get it to work.

I basically stripped everything off of the engine (sensors and such) and did away with all computer related things.

OR, would it just be easier to put a manual choke conversion kit on it?

I previously had a different Carb mounted on it and got it to crank for a short time long enough to realize that it was over carbureted, so this is why I went with the Verijet.

I really need help with this as the area where I live is very limited on info.

Fixing this choke problem and re-making more cable mounts is all that is keeping me from getting this motor cranked.

[cobalt327]

A 1-wire choke like you have will require a 12VDC source for the wire, the ground is supplied through the carb to the engine.

[vicrod]

An electric choke is very simple thing.
When 12 volts is applied to the terminal an electric heater is activated inside the housing.
Also inside the housing is helical bi-metallic coil.
As the coil gets warmed by the heater it uncoils and drives the choke butterfly open.
If the engine is already warm the choke will remain open.
So ambient temperature, engine temperature and electric heater affect the position of the choke butterfly.
The power feed to the choke can be connected to a fused ignition ON circuit so any time the ignition is on the choke heater will be activated.
Another method is to wire in series with the choke wire, an additional oil pressure switch that closes as the oil pressure increases. That way the choke will operate only when the engine is running.

vicrod

[equayonv]

Can it be wired to the back of the Alternator?

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by equayonv

Can it be wired to the back of the Alternator?

One option is to use the FIELD terminal on the alternator (the #1 terminal on the GM internal regulator alternator) to close a relay that then powers the choke. The field terminal is the only one that's not hot all the time.

The oil pressure switch is an alternate method and is what's commonly used by GM in factory installations. If you use the switch, you can run a wire from the BAT stud on the alternator, through a 20 amp fuse, to one terminal on the oil pressure switch. Run another wire from the other terminal on the switch to the choke. The original application for that carb should have an oil pressure switch listed as well, but you can also use the one from any mid-1980s GM pickup with a carb.

[cobalt327]

You can also specify an idiot light oil pressure switch for a '80 Malibu w/the 229 V6 (likely all engines, but I'm positive of this particular one- it's sitting in the drive).

This switch/sender activated a "CHOKE/OIL" lamp on the dash if there was a problem w/either, and the choke circuit was routed through it, so there's no doubt it can handle the current.

[equayonv]

I got the choke wired in and it is working but I also need to know where to run a vacuum line for the distributor vacuum advance.
There are four places on the front of the carb.
One is to the right of the others by its self.
The other three are vertical to each other with the bottom one running to the primary vacuum break.
Which one do I put the vacuum hose on for the distributor?
I added a picture. Hope this helps.


By the way, I tried to start it up and it cranks but races extremely high for a couple of seconds and then dies.
Any ideas why?

[equayonv]

Hey,
I got it running!
Thanks Folks!