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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:26 PM
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Yeah you're right I was planning to drill the restrictor flange out visually the turbo is healthy no external leaks or smoke coming from it so I think the restrictor may have saved it from the excessive oil pressure

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Old 07-16-2013, 05:38 AM
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So what is the max allowable psi that oil pump should allow if the pressure relief is working properly like what psi is it supposed to open
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:12 AM
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SB Chevrolet by-pass pressure relief valve is rated at 21 PSI differential pressure with oil cooler and remote oil filter, p/n 25014612. A SB Chevy by-pass valve rated at 11 PSID is p/n 25014006 and is used in engines w/o oil cooler. Note: It is best to use the 21 PSID valve for all SB Chevy applications. A BB Chevy by-pass valve is p/n 25161284 and is rated at 30 PSID. The BB Chevy by-pass valve is not interchangable with the SB Chevy by-pass valve.

Differential pressure is the difference in PSI between the oil filter inlet pressure from the oil pump, compared to the oil filter outlet pressure to the engine. Example: On a SB Chevy, when the differential pressure reaches 21 PSID, the by-pass opens and prevents the oil pump from having a hydraulic lock that may be caused by a over restrictive oil filter or excessive oil pump pressure. Oil filters used on engine blocks equipped with a by-pass valve are not equipped with a by-pass valve.

A BB Chevy by-pass valve is p/n 25161284 and is rated at 30 PSID. Will not interchange with the SB Chevy by-pass valve..
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Pupsvette76 View Post
So what is the max allowable psi that oil pump should allow if the pressure relief is working properly like what psi is it supposed to open
depends on what spring you're running and to a lesser extent which oil. There's a chart floating around somewhere with all the different springs and their associated max pressure, search google for the sbc melling oil pump spring chart or something of that nature and you'll find it.

While you're there I would port the pump and rear cap, it reduces cavitation and can help things out a bit. Oil flow is so often overlooked and it means a LOT when it comes to durability.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:02 AM
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The spring and check ball in the oil pump is a "oil pump pressure regulator " and is not inteneded to be used as a by-pass valve. The oil pressure regulator controls the oil pump outlett pressure. The valve in the block is the "oil filter by-pass valve" which is a by-pass valve for the oil filter. People who block the oil filter by-pass valve risk blowing the oil filter gasket or having a oil pump hydraulic lock if the oil voloume exceeds the flow capacity of the oil filter. If the oil filter by-pass valve is removed, the engine will be running on unfiltered oil. It is best to leave the by-pass valve in place but replace the stock 11 PSID valve with a 21 PSID valve especially when using a HV oil pump with a remote oil filter and oil cooler.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:12 AM
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21 PSID valve

Where would I find this? On my current build I was just planning on plugging the filter bypass, and likely still will, but am interested in looking into this option.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:29 AM
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so basically hands down if im seeing the pressure im seeing then my pump is defintiely at fault because it should be relieving itself before it gets too high
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:36 AM
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so basically hands down if im seeing the pressure im seeing then my pump is defintiely at fault because it should be relieving itself before it gets too high
if you really do have too much pressure then yes that's the only cause, OR you really don't have too much pressure and you have a faulty gauge. I would also disconnect your "evac kit" first, running that with the turbo system you described just seems like a bad idea all around. It can pressurize the crank case if you really botched the installation, and really can't do any good with the system you described.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:20 AM
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i will check it with a mechanical gauge to verify but im pretty sure its accurate because i have developed a few little leaks that are not normal wear and tear type leaks and i cant take it anymore the car is begging to be driven but i cant drive it like this without being embarrassed because its a smokey mess everytime i try its even more embarassing cuz my friend know how much money on this engine andfor that it def should not leak.... i have heard so many good things about the evac kit but i was def expecting it to pull some serious vacuum and was surprised when i ran it with my hand over the hole how little it actually porduced... and again i appreciate everyones input
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:47 AM
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for a street car a simple breather will work better than an evac system, on a high end circle track car the evac system can help.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:21 PM
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Where would I find this? On my current build I was just planning on plugging the filter bypass, and likely still will, but am interested in looking into this option.
The oil filter by-pass valves are available from any GM dealership parts department for about $5. You press the valve into the hole in the block, in the oil filter pad until is is just below flush. Using one prevents high oil pressure from blowing a oil filter gasket.

People get confused about the function of the oil pump "regulator valve" and the oil filter "by-pass valve."

The "regulator valve" in the oil pump opens when a pre-determined oil pressure depresses a piston and a calibrated spring in order to reduce the oil pump output pressure. That prevents the oil pump from continuing to produce pressure until the pump suffers a hydraulic lock and shears off the oil pump drive or spins the spur gear on the shaft.

The "by-pass" valve in the block opens when the differential pressure is reached and allows oil to by-pass the oil filter and continue to feed the engine with unfiltered oil. That would be in a situation when the oil filer has restricted flow and the oil pump over pressurizes the filter and blows a gasket or in some cases, cracks the filter housing. The by-pass in the block was introduced for use with engine oil coolers and remote oil filters and do not use a oil filter adapter in the block. It would be foolish to plug the oil filter by-pass. Runnung on un-filtered oil is better than running on no oil at all. The oil filters that are used on engines equipped with a oil filter by-pass valve in the engine block, do not have a by-pass valve in the filter.

I purchased the oil by-pass valve at Autozone because they come in a package of 100 valves ($500) if you buy them from a GM dealership, unless you have a buddy at the dealership that will bust a package and sell you one valve. Maybe that is why some people plug 'em and don't use a by-pass valve. .

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Old 07-16-2013, 01:37 PM
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I always plug the filter bypass in the filter adapter. The filter has a bypass to prevent deadheading the pump.
The only filter I have ever seen severely restrict flow was when used in conjunction with some kind of Slick 50 crap that caused the media in the filter to almost totally stop the flow which resulted in low oil pressure indicated on the gauge.
If you want a high tech solution

Chevy Billet Oil Filter Bypass Adapter - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

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Old 07-16-2013, 01:41 PM
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If you run a good filter I cant see a problem with plugging the filter bypass, except that it would cause a greater loss in pressure/flow in the system. with a cheap filter plugging the bypass can lead to a lot of mentioned problems. I like filtered oil, but going with a higher rated bypass would essentially mean the bypass is closed except if the filter becomes really clogged. I did not know there is a higher rated pressure option and for $5 it seems like a way to keep a bypass but still have all your oil filtered under normal conditions (assuming less than 21psi dynamic pressure loss through the filter).

Happen to have a PN for it so I may be able to buy just one through an online outlet?
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:29 PM
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If you run a good filter I cant see a problem with plugging the filter bypass, except that it would cause a greater loss in pressure/flow in the system. with a cheap filter plugging the bypass can lead to a lot of mentioned problems. I like filtered oil, but going with a higher rated bypass would essentially mean the bypass is closed except if the filter becomes really clogged. I did not know there is a higher rated pressure option and for $5 it seems like a way to keep a bypass but still have all your oil filtered under normal conditions (assuming less than 21psi dynamic pressure loss through the filter).

Happen to have a PN for it so I may be able to buy just one through an online outlet?
The part numbers for the oil filter by-pass valves are listed in my previous posting. It is a good idea to replace the 11 PSID valve with a 21 PSID by-pass valve in order to raise the oil filter in to out differential pressure. You do not want the oil filter by pass to open at low pressure. Be advised, oil filters designed to fit engines with block by-pass valve in the block do not have a by-pass valve in the filter. If you block the by-pass in the block, you do not have a by-pass valve at all. Dirty oil is better than no oil.

1988-up, GM, 21 PSID valve, GM-25014612
1988-up, GM, 11 PSID valve, GM-25014006

They cost $5 each but they come in a package of 100 valves if you purchase them from a GM dealership. My local Chevrolet dealership will not bust up a package of parts but you can order one valve from most local parts retailer.I got mine from Autozone.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2013, 02:51 PM
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Where is the pressure relief for the oil pump it's in the oil pump right? Could Welding the pickup on destroy the springs pressure due to heat
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