Originally Posted by 89k1500
The regulator that I am running now is a mallory 3 port competion regultor(return style) PN 4309. I'm going to hook up the electric pump when I get a chance and see if that cures some of my issues. The more I read on setting timing and what-not the more I think I need to address that as well.
Thanks again for the links and info! If you guys have any other helpful links on this stuff feel free to post em. I have no problem reading and I am new to the carburated world, and my brother works weird hours so it looks like if this truck is gunna get dialed in, its going to take effort on my part too. =)
Yep doing the electric pump will help resolve the fuel issue. If adding richer jets and tuning the needles and accelerator pump and using the electric pump didnt do the trick then you can rule out fuel and move on to timing quickly. Its easy to hook up a bosh relay with a switch to run the pump. You can also run it off the ignition key power on but for testing a switch will do the trick and let you rule out the fuel pump once and for all.
This kit is from pertronix and may not be high quaility but will do the trick.
HEI Distributor Accessories
The kit does not appear to have the mechanical advance lockout/limit plate. You may need to get that seperate. Also buying the modual and coil with cap rotor rules out a lot of things all at once.
Use the lightest springs to allow all mech advance to be in at 2500-3000 rpm. Limit mechanical adavance to 10 degrees or so which is about the last position on the limit plate.
Set the vacum can to operate at the vacum you have at off idle. Maybe someone else can help with how to set vacum can actuator. But as for the lockpit make sure its set to give no more than about 11 degrees.
Then set initial timing at 15- 30 depending on how the rest of the distributer was setup. I usally time them with a timing light and ear. Just listen tell it sounds its meanest reving it up in park from under the hood and make sure that is not a crazy high setting then back it off a few degrees and drive with a wrench and adjust as i go. As much advance as you can get with out it knocking or breaking up.
Now with all that said a dyno tune is in order if you have the cash. Because you can damage the engine with too much timing and for it to run its best you want to be close to the limit. It may be best to have it tuned with sniffers and dyno to gurantee no damage results from the tunng process.
Once all this is done you will have checked replaced or repaired the: distributor, including cap rotor mod coil wires and plugs (oh yeah replace the plugs with colder ones might be needed) and you can also rule out fuel pump and main jets since they were upped to larger size already. That covers alot of ground and all the simple causes for your problem.
Hope this helps.