Originally Posted by cobalt327
You can accomplish basically the same thing by using very light springs that will allow the mechanical advance to go to full advance at a low rpm. Two light springs should be about right to have the mechanical all in early enough, but still have enough spring tension to return the mechanical advance to rest w/the engine off. This negates the need for a starter switch, while still giving all the available advance at low rpm.
A page w/some more info: Limiting/locking mechanical advance
If you remove the weights and springs and use tie wraps, etc. to lock the liming, DO NOT
remove the cam of the mechanical advance mechanism. It holds the advance plate to the center shaft.
All sound good except for one thing:
I does not work. The light tension springs allows the timing to move around way too much at idle. The timing drops off when you go in gear and flairs up in neutral resulting in a idle that is all over the place and poor throttle response
and a engine that loads up, stalls in gear and idles up and down all the time.
With the locked out timing the cammed engine gets the stable timing it needs at idle . Gets a clean stable consistent idle and excellent throttle response.
Yes the engine needs this much timing at idle.
. Using the switch becomes second nature in a very short time.
The benefits far out weight the bother.