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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
I'm using just the distributor....im goin to put fresh plugs in it my next day off i've been using the autolite 3923 are those good plugs for this application?
The last time the OP posted he asked about spark plugs ????!!!!, that was on the 17th, what is going on with this thread? its like the land of the living dead, I dont want to play anymore unless,,,

it is not the 400 that is lazy, we need the OP to post back OR put this one to rest, trash, dump, filed under G for garbage

for the record, the autolite 3923 plugs are cold as witch's (.)(.) so they just might work and could be considered for this application if you need to run some cheap gas for instance.

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  #167 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Lmao.....I sense your getting frustrated
And your completely right.....without reading all 13 pages again, did it not say somewhere that he went ahead and bought the e-curve? If so its likely the simplest thing in the world, lock the timing at 34-36, when locked the e-curve has built in start retard so no switches or hassle getting it started ......maybe that's already happened and I missed it?
LOL I'm not frustrated, But I am disappointed, that some on here, that I thought were Knowledgeable people don't know diddly about basic converter operation and don't care about learning it!! And when I take the time to explain it, in terms a moron could understand its ignored or skipped over and they come back on here telling the OP the same crap about his converter! Any performance guy or racer should know this stuff Converter and fluid coupling is vital to pulling full potential out of a build !!!! Before they make suggestions to novices or others on here they should at least check to see if what they say is wrong or not! Or a warning should be before their post saying "HERE'S MY STUPID SIGN"

I see the OP comes on and reads but doesn't post! and some Things that were said about his project were uncalled for! I'm waiting patiently for a post from him on here? Till then the little chit chat on here doesn't hurt anything and keeps the thread up on the board

Jester
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 02:11 PM
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Here's my sign

Hi,

Jester, I still agree with everything you've said.

Yes, I really do understand how a converter works and effects torque has.

The impression I get ( and I could be all wrong) is that his converter is locking up BEFORE the cam starts to really work. Which is why I said what I did.

And, Ain't it a great day in the neighborhood?

C'ya, John
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyojeepeer View Post
Hi,

Jester, I still agree with everything you've said.

Yes, I really do understand how a converter works and effects torque has.

The impression I get ( and I could be all wrong) is that his converter is locking up BEFORE the cam starts to really work. Which is why I said what I did.

And, Ain't it a great day in the neighborhood?

C'ya, John


My post wasn't aimed at you Jeeper , And your impression may be right! But I'm looking at it as if the converter is slipping at bottom end (not locking up) Needing more throttle at normal driveing speeds on the street bellow lock up and a higher stall converter would just add more converter inefficiency (slippage) at street level RPMs He said its strong at top end RPM ranges but at bottom end its gutless and we don't know his exact description of his low speed complaint!

To me for Drag only I would choose a converter that stalls at around peak torque but for street and strip I would choose a converter that flash stalls before reaching peak torque usually when the cam starts to come into its range! Which is what I think the OP was hoping to achieve (street and strip efficiency) The best of both worlds its a goal not achievable! you lose at both ends LOL? For most street and street/strip combinations he probably would want a stall in the 2,500-3,500rpm range. But he bought an off-the-shelf converter thinking it will give him the advertised stall and unless it has been "PROVEN" to do so in an identical setup he has no Idea what its stall really is? We and the OP have no Idea when his Peak torque is or what his combinations torque and rpm curve is?

The suggestions being made concerning his torque converter, timeing , carb, headers being too small gears ETC are of no value till he gets back on here with results of his first test and if it doesn't work we can help with more tests and suggestions till he straightens out his engine tune.

If the engine was running perfect and we knew his torque range it would make it easy to pin point the power loss through the drive train and chassis!

If a car comes into my shop and has no bottom end but is performing well at mid and top end I'll test drive it, and then I check and trouble shoot the engine first starting at the timing and go down the list to tune and eliminate the engine as being the problem, I don't jump to changing the cam gears and converter thinking that's the problem! But it seems many on this thread jump right to the cam and drive train skipping the engine altogether!!!!!

It would be nice if the OP would at least come and let us know if this thread is still open or if its dead because I'm going to dump it off my list very soon!

Jester
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
check the cap and rotor and wires install. There is a outside change there is a problem with this
distributor..
Do a simple cylindr balance test to detect misfireing-weak cylinders, using a tach and or vacuum gauge.

You should have just locked out the HEI distributor you already had.

If you cannot trace the problem reinstall the old distributor and lock it out.

Further these e curve distributors do not advance the timing. They only work by more or less retard
from the base line setting.

Verify the actual timing at idle in gear and the timing at full advance and the accumulated total timing when vacuum advance is active. Using a timing light.

You want 36deg BTDC steady at idle in gear....36deg steady at idle in neutral.
36deg at high rpm WOT . No vacuum advance....

and +10deg of added vacuum advance when vacuum advance is active and high manifold vacuum is applied.

The start retard also accumulative. So must be accounted for in the base line distributor timing setup.

Remember this E curve distributor never actually "advances the timing" it all works by taking away timing from the base setup.

in various amount depending on the switches set up.

Use a timing light to verify each timing curve mode idle......idle in gear......... WOT max advance........and part throttle applyed vacuum advance.

The base line setup has to be readjusted depending on which amount of start retard you give it.

Like I said can be a bit pesky to get it set up right.

The idle timing must not drop when in gear or the motor will stall.

The carbs throttles pri and sec must be in the correct position (idle fuel transfer slot exposure) at idle.
Or the idle fuel curve is funky. A blown leaky power valve or a power valve that is opening at idle in gear
when manifold vacuum is lowest will mess up the idle too.
If the plugs are black fouled, replace.

These e curve distributors are more trouble than they are worth on a motor like yours with this cam as the
motor needs full locked out timing at idle any way.

Are you using this distributor "stand alone" or running it thru a CD ignition box ( MSD 6 etc)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
The distributor is to be locked in at Q setting 1 & 7 before being installed in the engine and set with the timing light at 36* Idling ( Or total desired) !!! And carb reset to desired Idle !! Then when you start the engine it will start at (#1 dial) retarded position and then run and idle at (#2 dial) locked out total position!! Its very easy!

As you turn the distributor to advance it to desired 36* (or total) the Idle will speed up and must be adjusted, your idle metering screws need to be adjusted too!!! You also need higher octane with the timing locked out at 36* ETC. if your running pump gas? I would run 110 for initial testing and adjust up or down later (I wouldn't want to take a chance on pre detonation)

You don't buy a pcv for a normal grocery getter, your parts store will try to sell you one that is generic!!! Tell them you want one for a specific high performance vehicle like an L88 Vette it will have a different part # !!!! You may have to order it from year one or a GM dealer!!!! The L88 Vettes pcv is designed for the big cam and less vacuum!!!!! I have a book with the PCV part #s somewhere in the house I'll have to find it but Fbird or some one else will probably have them!!!


Jester




Found it!!
L88 & 454 HO and LT1s PCV reproduction #FP 1003 , GM #9901N
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
My post wasn't aimed at you Jeeper , And your impression may be right! But I'm looking at it as if the converter is slipping at bottom end (not locking up) Needing more throttle at normal driveing speeds on the street bellow lock up and a higher stall converter would just add more converter inefficiency (slippage) at street level RPMs He said its strong at top end RPM ranges but at bottom end its gutless and we don't know his exact description of his low speed complaint!

To me for Drag only I would choose a converter that stalls at around peak torque but for street and strip I would choose a converter that flash stalls before reaching peak torque usually when the cam starts to come into its range! Which is what I think the OP was hoping to achieve (street and strip efficiency) The best of both worlds its a goal not achievable! you lose at both ends LOL? For most street and street/strip combinations he probably would want a stall in the 2,500-3,500rpm range. But he bought an off-the-shelf converter thinking it will give him the advertised stall and unless it has been "PROVEN" to do so in an identical setup he has no Idea what its stall really is? We and the OP have no Idea when his Peak torque is or what his combinations torque and rpm curve is?

The suggestions being made concerning his torque converter, timeing , carb, headers being too small gears ETC are of no value till he gets back on here with results of his first test and if it doesn't work we can help with more tests and suggestions till he straightens out his engine tune.

If the engine was running perfect and we knew his torque range it would make it easy to pin point the power loss through the drive train and chassis!

If a car comes into my shop and has no bottom end but is performing well at mid and top end I'll test drive it, and then I check and trouble shoot the engine first starting at the timing and go down the list to tune and eliminate the engine as being the problem, I don't jump to changing the cam gears and converter thinking that's the problem! But it seems many on this thread jump right to the cam and drive train skipping the engine altogether!!!!!

It would be nice if the OP would at least come and let us know if this thread is still open or if its dead because I'm going to dump it off my list very soon!

Jester


I haven't posted anything bcuz I haven't had a chance to get down to the car works been crazy since we are short staffed and i'm also in the process of moving...I have been keeping up with the thread and I've seen u have been posting a lot of useful info especially the one about the build u did which was very similar to my build....after I get this move over with I will be turning my focus back to my car
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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 07:34 PM
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2013, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
I haven't posted anything bcuz I haven't had a chance to get down to the car works been crazy since we are short staffed and i'm also in the process of moving...I have been keeping up with the thread and I've seen u have been posting a lot of useful info especially the one about the build u did which was very similar to my build....after I get this move over with I will be turning my focus back to my car

Yes for some reason ppl are chopping at the bit to give you bad advice. A smaller cam would be a big disater becasue of compressions ratio. Jumping head long into something you dont have time to work on is also not advised.

In this case the op has made no promises about how fast he will take ppl advise.

Everyone that says change the combo or other unrealted issues should be ignored. They have no clue what they are talking about. This car and combo will jump and run when properly tunned and setup. I also would not buy a converter until its sure thats the problem. Some ppl will always run too small a cam and never see an engine run like it could with the proper sized cam. What you have is right where it needs to be.
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 10:57 AM
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Has this thread run its course? 90caprice408, or do you plan on finishing it! Its been stagnant since April? Or did we all waist our time with you!!! These type of threads not finished are bad for the site!!! No one gets anything worthwhile out of the thread if it isn't brought to a close with what was found as the problem. If you straightened out the problem you should come on here and at least tell what you found or close the thread with a "ITS RUNNING FINE"

Jester
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  #174 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
Has this thread run its course? 90caprice408, or do you plan on finishing it! Its been stagnant since April? Or did we all waist our time with you!!! These type of threads not finished are bad for the site!!! No one gets anything worthwhile out of the thread if it isn't brought to a close with what was found as the problem. If you straightened out the problem you should come on here and at least tell what you found or close the thread with a "ITS RUNNING FINE"

Jester


Good call Jester, that happens all too often - people just bail and don't post to let all the people who gave advice know what worked
Maybe should re-title the thread 'very lazy 400 owner'. A resolution would be nice.



Duke
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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:22 PM
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Time to impound the Caprice! Talk about irony.
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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 05:01 PM
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Yea, you're in the "Doghouse" '90caprice.
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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2013, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
Has this thread run its course? 90caprice408, or do you plan on finishing it! Its been stagnant since April? Or did we all waist our time with you!!! These type of threads not finished are bad for the site!!! No one gets anything worthwhile out of the thread if it isn't brought to a close with what was found as the problem. If you straightened out the problem you should come on here and at least tell what you found or close the thread with a "ITS RUNNING FINE"

Jester
I apologize for not keeping you guys posted with what's been going on, haven't had much time to get on the computer lately......as far as the car goes "iTS RUNNING FINE"....I upgraded the rear gears to a 4.30 and come to find out the gears that came out were the original 3.42 even tho I was under the impression that somebody had switched them to 3.73 for me a few yrs back......I had the person that installed my gears drive the car so he could tell me what he thought, his response was "the car runs damn good"...he did tell me that it felt like the car was kinda starving for fuel once it got into the higher rpms
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2013, 09:23 PM
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Well congratulations

Jester
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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2013, 04:50 AM
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Thanks for posting. Glad to hear you got it licked.

This is a very common problem for a lot of guys that install a big cam and think something's wrong.
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  #180 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2013, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
I apologize for not keeping you guys posted with what's been going on, haven't had much time to get on the computer lately......as far as the car goes "iTS RUNNING FINE"....I upgraded the rear gears to a 4.30 and come to find out the gears that came out were the original 3.42 even tho I was under the impression that somebody had switched them to 3.73 for me a few yrs back......I had the person that installed my gears drive the car so he could tell me what he thought, his response was "the car runs damn good"...he did tell me that it felt like the car was kinda starving for fuel once it got into the higher rpms
So it's running fine but it's not? Is there a blockage in the fuel system or is it running lean? Check to see if you have good fuel pressure.

Last edited by Oregonite; 06-13-2013 at 03:22 PM.
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