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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2013, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
How Many miles do you have on this engine ?, has it seen any track tuning time?

Your PCV is that the one that is covered by the pretty looking fake breather? If it is The bottom of that breather the PCV goes in are notorious for sucking air and seeping oil out the bottom plate they are crimped on and not sealed or welded solid where the grommet goes! I had one on my Vette I had to seal the bottom seam of the fake breather with silicone!

This has nothing to do with your build its just an explanation of trouble shooting even though its some of your same components its a build I did before I retired and sold my shop! For a customer that supplied his own parts for a blue print. Ive installed and ran that same Lunati cam the last one I installed straight up with 1.6 roller rockers, pro comp aluminum heads, 12 to 1 C.R.. in a 355, 350 trans B&M 3000 stall, stock posi 3.73 gear 27" tall tires (stock size tires). The performance in a 3600 pound car (76 Vette) at the track was great, It launched and pulled hard from 2400rpm on up with the rpm air gap intake (that I don't like) LOL, initial timing was 10 total 34 no vacuum advance the B&M 3000 converter flash stalled at 3400, the carb was a BG 750 vacuum secondary and 1 3/4 primary long tube headers. I built it with what the customer wanted! It ran high 13s in the 1/4 on street tires and premium pump gas during tune up runs. But the customer didn't like the bottom end performance when he drove on the street. He wanted the power down low to show off!! It was ok normal stop and go traffic but if he showered down on it at a low roll it wouldn't put him back in the seat till he it hit about 2400 rpm!

First thing I did was put a 750 Holley double pumper on it, it helped a lot right out of the box changed power valve and re jetted, tuned in accelerator pumps and it was better, then set initial time up to 16 btdc and and total to 38
helped even more, but couldn't run pump gas without octane booster or cranking back the timing, Got down to low 13s. Bottom end street performance was better, but not to his liking yet so I pulled the 1.6 rockers off the intakes and put 1.5s on and kept the 1.6s on the exhausts set the valves with a vacume gauge, it woke the engine up a little at the bottom but lost at the top! LOL But he liked it better at the bottom so we kept the 1.5 rockers on the intakes.

The engine was performing better at the bottom, he asked if he could get more, and I mentioned advancing the cam or going to a new cam more suitable to bottom end power we decided I would advance the cam to see what it would do and it really came alive at about 1900 rpm and had no lag, it was much more to his liking I suggested a better intake to match his power band but he liked the RPM air gap! We dropped to 25" tires with a wider foot print and bottom end performance increased and the flash stall went from 3400 to 2900 RPM, so now he goes back to 27 inch tires at the track and the flash stall of 3400 gives him a better stage launch and it launches better at the track, and he runs the 25 inch on the street he has better acceleration at bottom end for normal driving!

I only saw him once since then at a show last fall his only complaint was when it got cold (NORTHERN MICHIGAN, OCTOBER PUMPKIN RUN) that air gap intake would frost and the carb throat would frost but he still won't change it and also had to mix racing gas with pump gas! He was happy with the rest.

I HATE TYPING I use one finger and it takes forever

It takes a long enough time to tune a build that's well planed and has well matched eng. to chassis components, let alone a build that makes you happy at top end but not at bottom! And your on a budget!

After building many combinations and different RPM range race or street engines for Chevy, Mopar, Ford, ETC we on here know what works like Fbird, Cobalt, Vinnie, #1 Gary, Custom10 Etc, Etc, our initial suggestions on where to start on a tune may very and we may see what another reader doesn't notice in our reading of a thread but we come to agreement on the Finnish its just our experiences over the years with different combinations that vary where we start a tune in, or give an answer on a thread that makes our suggestions different from each other and we sometimes bump heads LOL

I wrote this because it shows how long it takes to tune in a build that a persons not happy with even for a professional! When your build is for rpm and top end power at the track and it doesn't satisfy you when you try to put it on the street! A person cant have BOTH you have to sacrifice at bottom or top end!!! You trouble shoot and change 1 thing at a time and do it first and walk your way through the trouble shooting process (it takes a lot of time and knowledge from experience with other builds over years)_!!!! You don't do 2 changes at once it compounds things if you have problems you now have 2 things to trouble shoot, rather then knowing the problem is in the 1 thing you did!!!! FBird mentioned timing lock out some of us disagreed in the beginning and mentioned other places to start!(bumped heads) But we all met and backed off to start at the lock out test (our heads came together) LOL But we could have all come together at carb tuning or any other point someone brought up It made no difference where we started trouble shooting your engine! As long as it gets started somewhere

About converter stall ( you may already know this?)
Flash stall can change just by reworking the load that the converter sees. For instance, if the car has a 4.11:1 rear axle ratio and the flash stall is 2,500 rpm on a launch, a change to a 3.73:1 gear or taller tires might see the flash speed increase to 3,000 rpm. Why? the load on the converter went up making the converter slip more! The weight of the car will change flash stall speed too, lighter vehicles will lower the flash stall speed; heavier vehicles will raise flash stall. If the same car had the rear gear swapped for a 5.13:1 ratio, this would cause the flash stall speed to go down. because the converter has begun to couple up progressively as the load it sees gets lower. A combination with a 4.33:1 gear or shorter tires would make the car easier to move when compared to the 4.11:1 or 3.73:1 and tall tire combinations the 4.33:1 would lower the flash stall more the 3.73 would raise it!

That's why the good converter manufacturers want the info on car weight, tire size, cam info, Etc,Etc, Brake stall is nothing but just a basic set measure When the converter over rides the average foot brake holding ability with no knowledge of any particular vehicle, eng. torque or build its the flash stall that's important when choosing a converter!!

Example:
A Vega 4 cylinder converter will stall coupled to the stock Vega engine about lets say 1000 RPM but put that same Vega converter behind a stock 350 and it will flash stall way up to 3000 rpm put it on a 454 big block and it will stall at flash 4500 rpm! All the old racers on here know this about converters we ran them LOL they didn't last very long LOL but were cheep at any junk yard and would last a weekend at the track LOL

Jester


Crappy weather here, parts I ordered aren't in yet for Mopar 383 build and I got carried away typing what I was thinking about! Drinking coffee LOL watching Gun Smoke and Bonanza LOL . I was going to delete all of it except for the part about the PCV! But then thought someone might like or enjoy the read

Don't do this stupid thing Im going to Mention
I WAS JUST THINKING ABOUT a "B" Gasser I ran in the late '60s all top end locked out REV POLE dual point at 42 degrees, idled at 3000 rpm, well I used to take it down the street to a DOG & SUDS on a week end every once and a great while for a root beer float LOL It was a real slug at bottom end but man on a 4500 RPM launch from the stop light to the drive way of the S&D it was great and drew a big crowd when I pulled in !!!!! I would never have changed it for more bottom end power!!!! It did exactly what I built it to do!!!!!!! And I was happy with it and I had no business putting it on the street even just to go a couple of blocks Years latter around '72 I built a street sleeper engine and converted the Gasser to street legal car. And always missed the old top end power!


Wow my typing fingers BLEEDING LOL
Nice rant Jester!! I enjoyed reading it.
Very good for you to point out the 'only change one thing at a time rule'. An old mechanic friend of mine wised me up to that 35yrs ago, and I've abided by it ever since.
That way there are no guesses regarding what helped or what made it worse.
Nice work explaining the converter stall speeds too!


Duke

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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2013, 02:45 PM
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The over the counter sales people are there to make a sale they don't care or know what the use of a product will do! I'll even try to call a teck guy and see what a knew product can add to a build and ask the tech a few questions and lo and behold they only know what they are reading off a paper! This sight is great for info on real world testing! Guys that will tell you what the real world gains and draw backs are and the reality of the hipe company's put out to sell a product! It used to be Hotrod, Rod Action, Custom Rodder etc, had real world comparisons in their articles but this day and age the almighty dollar provides the bias on testing results (they can't make a future or present advertiser mad LOL) And a company that tests its own products and compares them to another!!!! Now we know they will tell you the true outcome or will they edit it to make it only show the gains and not the downs

I see builds go right to the 1.6 ratio rockers on small blocks because others do it and they read some blog without even trying other rocker ratios or combinations and actually are losing not gaining and don't even know it! LOL! I know its hard for a guy that's a beginner and on a budget to test and change combinations of parts Most can't afford to buy all the things to test run and see what is best! But the guys that tasted the salt and the old guys on here have tested and like me have cams and rockers and different carbs and heads laying in our shops or garages that we have tested with and we used combinations in the past years and know what works!!

The guy on here that builds an engine and asks advice on silly novice things:
Like:
( I torqued my mains and cant turn over my engine now!! Whats wrong? I could turn it over easy before I tore it down) In his threads and a few months later is giving advice and telling old hard knocked went through the ropes men on here they are wrong!!!! That drives me Absolutely NUTS OR Whats my HP? LOL Or "I think my Compression is?" or "How do I check my piston deck height with my heads on?" or "What oil do I run In a Porchia?" and then they get to very quickly giving advice on here


The really (DUMB) biggest mistake I see in combinations is high stall converter choices people make!!!!! People picking an advertised stall speed and take it for granted that no matter what you put it behind that its going to stall at that RPM!!!!! I see good builds that are having their power washed out by the converter and blame it on everything else except the converter!!!!!! They buy these Jegs or Summit or over the parts counter converters thinking they are saving Money and they depend on talking to a salesman or tech guy who tells them the stall speed and says it will work fine!! The stock converter they took out that stalled at 1500 rpm could stall at 2500 rpm with the torque the new engine puts on it! And they install a new advertised 3000 stall converter and it eats up their torque and builds up so much heat it ruins the trans in a very short time!

Not to create waves here but when any one on here recommends a converter the wording is important!! because saying: "You need a 3000 stall converter" doesn't mean the same thing as saying "You need a converter that stalls at 3000 RPM"!!! and then tell them to call a converter co. and give the info so the manufacturer can recommend the right one to meet your specs and will stall close to 3000!!!


We have an OP here that wants more bottom end on a car built for top end performance! We can't drive it? So we are guessing at where the loss of power is? What makes it real hard is because each of us on here are imagining where it feels like its losing power! Im imagining its when he puts it to the floor from a slow roll off a stop light, Fbird might imagine it being a dog just rolling out from a stop at part throttle, Cobalt could be imagining its at the transition from primary's to secondary's!

We don't know what his lifter adjustment is, his rocker ratios, his vacuum draw, his true compression, or what his converter is doing to his torque at low RPM it could be slipping badly? Maybe its setting in a yard and it gets dark early? I'm guessing at the yard thing?LOL We don't know how many miles are on the build, Maybe the rings haven't even seated yet?

He is in a position that he works and cant get to the car every day, I can see that!! I imagine maybe he takes Buses or rides a bike and doesn't have another car and the car is in the country at his Dads and buses don't run there LOL But some imagine he can drive 30 miles very easy every day because its easy for them to do it! He mentioned He needed another foot in one of his posts ? Hell maybe he has no feet??? We imagine things from our experiences and our every day habits! So we think every one does and are able to do what we do day in day out!! But our lives don't apply to every one elses that comes on here!!!! I saw a guy get scolded & reamed on here for his spelling and grammar and it ended up he was from another country and couldn't speak the language and was using a web translator!!

I just relax, and wait till an O.P. comes back with the info so we can go on with our recommendations I hate when your in a thread and giving advice over time keeping the subscription open and they never come back I have to unsubscribe to these treads to make room all the time!!!! All the info we add to a thread and none of us see if anything worked out or not ITS AGGRAVATING I'm subscribed to about 20 now and its climbing and some are months old So I'll be dumping some of those LOL

I hope The O.P. doesn't mind my borrowing his thread for this post LOL Sorry

Jester

Last edited by painted jester; 03-21-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 12:48 PM
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My 2 cents.

Hi,

I'm new here, but..............

I agree with what Jester just said.

IMO, you really need a good description of "no bottom end".
Are you (the op) trying to leave a stoplight at part throttle, and have to give it more gas than you think is necessary?
or, are you saying it won't lift the front tires? Or, smoke the rears?

You have one hell of a big cam for a street car, Operative word is "STREET".
246* @.050..... It doesn't really come on to the cam until about 4k rpm, and you're using a "3000" stall converter.............

My recommendation is to either put in a smaller cam (around 230*@.050). That would work with the converter you have.

Or, get a stall converter in the 4500 range.
In the second case, be ready to start buying driveline parts.

This is just MY 2 cents, YMMV.
C'ya, John
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyojeepeer View Post
Hi,

I'm new here, but..............

I agree with what Jester just said.

IMO, you really need a good description of "no bottom end".
Are you (the op) trying to leave a stoplight at part throttle, and have to give it more gas than you think is necessary?
or, are you saying it won't lift the front tires? Or, smoke the rears?

You have one hell of a big cam for a street car, Operative word is "STREET".
246* @.050..... It doesn't really come on to the cam until about 4k rpm, and you're using a "3000" stall converter.............

My recommendation is to either put in a smaller cam (around 230*@.050). That would work with the converter you have.

Or, get a stall converter in the 4500 range.
In the second case, be ready to start buying driveline parts.

This is just MY 2 cents, YMMV.
C'ya, John
Exactly. This is what everyone has been telling him for the last 13 pages of this thread but he insists on leaving it as it is.
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 01:37 PM
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again

Hi,

What I was really saying is this is an OBVIOUS (to me) cam/converter mismatch.

There's about three, OK, maybe nine, pages of "locking out the distributer", and comments both ways.

IMO, all of that talk is a band-aid, and I'm not saying it wouldn't help. I just find it funny as heck.

This is not a knock on any of the posters.

C'ya, John
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 03:32 PM
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I'll state this one more time!!!!! NO ONE KNOWS WHAT THAT CONVERTER WILL FLASH STALL AT!!!!!!!!! The weight of the car, the gearing, the diameter of the tires, the RPM band, the torque of the engine flashed on it, its all contributing factors to where it flash stalls it might flash stall at 4000 rpm with that converter???? We have no Idea what that converters flash stall is with his combination!!!!



After the engine tune is in he can do a flash stall test and see if it needs changing!!! You cant do that test if the engine isn't running right!!!! Once the engine is tuned right he can tune the chassis and drive train to what he needs to bring his combination together! We haven't even seen the first trouble shooting test done yet to move to the next step? Why not look at this as the engine is on a running stand or a F.W. Dino that weighs 4000 pounds not in a car LOL tune the engine and then worry about how to set up what its going in and how it effects performance when its installed in a 4000 LB.CAR


Jester

Last edited by painted jester; 03-23-2013 at 03:37 PM.
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
I'll state this one more time!!!!! NO ONE KNOWS WHAT THAT CONVERTER WILL FLASH STALL AT!!!!!!!!! The weight of the car, the gearing, the diameter of the tires, the RPM band, the torque of the engine flashed on it, its all contributing factors to where it flash stalls it might flash stall at 4000 rpm with that converter???? We have no Idea what that converters flash stall is with his combination!!!!



After the engine tune is in he can do a flash stall test and see if it needs changing!!! You cant do that test if the engine isn't running right!!!! Once the engine is tuned right he can tune the chassis and drive train to what he needs to bring his combination together! We haven't even seen the first trouble shooting test done yet to move to the next step? Why not look at this as the engine is on a running stand or a F.W. Dino that weighs 4000 pounds not in a car LOL tune the engine and then worry about how to set up what its going in and how it effects performance when its installed in a 4000 LB.CAR


Jester
Lmao.....I sense your getting frustrated
And your completely right.....without reading all 13 pages again, did it not say somewhere that he went ahead and bought the e-curve? If so its likely the simplest thing in the world, lock the timing at 34-36, when locked the e-curve has built in start retard so no switches or hassle getting it started ......maybe that's already happened and I missed it?
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Lmao.....I sense your getting frustrated
And your completely right.....without reading all 13 pages again, did it not say somewhere that he went ahead and bought the e-curve? If so its likely the simplest thing in the world, lock the timing at 34-36, when locked the e-curve has built in start retard so no switches or hassle getting it started ......maybe that's already happened and I missed it?
It's happened and it's stalling when put into gear.
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
I'm using just the distributor....im goin to put fresh plugs in it my next day off i've been using the autolite 3923 are those good plugs for this application?
The last time the OP posted he asked about spark plugs ????!!!!, that was on the 17th, what is going on with this thread? its like the land of the living dead, I dont want to play anymore unless,,,

it is not the 400 that is lazy, we need the OP to post back OR put this one to rest, trash, dump, filed under G for garbage

for the record, the autolite 3923 plugs are cold as witch's (.)(.) so they just might work and could be considered for this application if you need to run some cheap gas for instance.
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Lmao.....I sense your getting frustrated
And your completely right.....without reading all 13 pages again, did it not say somewhere that he went ahead and bought the e-curve? If so its likely the simplest thing in the world, lock the timing at 34-36, when locked the e-curve has built in start retard so no switches or hassle getting it started ......maybe that's already happened and I missed it?
LOL I'm not frustrated, But I am disappointed, that some on here, that I thought were Knowledgeable people don't know diddly about basic converter operation and don't care about learning it!! And when I take the time to explain it, in terms a moron could understand its ignored or skipped over and they come back on here telling the OP the same crap about his converter! Any performance guy or racer should know this stuff Converter and fluid coupling is vital to pulling full potential out of a build !!!! Before they make suggestions to novices or others on here they should at least check to see if what they say is wrong or not! Or a warning should be before their post saying "HERE'S MY STUPID SIGN"

I see the OP comes on and reads but doesn't post! and some Things that were said about his project were uncalled for! I'm waiting patiently for a post from him on here? Till then the little chit chat on here doesn't hurt anything and keeps the thread up on the board

Jester
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2013, 01:11 PM
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Here's my sign

Hi,

Jester, I still agree with everything you've said.

Yes, I really do understand how a converter works and effects torque has.

The impression I get ( and I could be all wrong) is that his converter is locking up BEFORE the cam starts to really work. Which is why I said what I did.

And, Ain't it a great day in the neighborhood?

C'ya, John
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  #192 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyojeepeer View Post
Hi,

Jester, I still agree with everything you've said.

Yes, I really do understand how a converter works and effects torque has.

The impression I get ( and I could be all wrong) is that his converter is locking up BEFORE the cam starts to really work. Which is why I said what I did.

And, Ain't it a great day in the neighborhood?

C'ya, John


My post wasn't aimed at you Jeeper , And your impression may be right! But I'm looking at it as if the converter is slipping at bottom end (not locking up) Needing more throttle at normal driveing speeds on the street bellow lock up and a higher stall converter would just add more converter inefficiency (slippage) at street level RPMs He said its strong at top end RPM ranges but at bottom end its gutless and we don't know his exact description of his low speed complaint!

To me for Drag only I would choose a converter that stalls at around peak torque but for street and strip I would choose a converter that flash stalls before reaching peak torque usually when the cam starts to come into its range! Which is what I think the OP was hoping to achieve (street and strip efficiency) The best of both worlds its a goal not achievable! you lose at both ends LOL? For most street and street/strip combinations he probably would want a stall in the 2,500-3,500rpm range. But he bought an off-the-shelf converter thinking it will give him the advertised stall and unless it has been "PROVEN" to do so in an identical setup he has no Idea what its stall really is? We and the OP have no Idea when his Peak torque is or what his combinations torque and rpm curve is?

The suggestions being made concerning his torque converter, timeing , carb, headers being too small gears ETC are of no value till he gets back on here with results of his first test and if it doesn't work we can help with more tests and suggestions till he straightens out his engine tune.

If the engine was running perfect and we knew his torque range it would make it easy to pin point the power loss through the drive train and chassis!

If a car comes into my shop and has no bottom end but is performing well at mid and top end I'll test drive it, and then I check and trouble shoot the engine first starting at the timing and go down the list to tune and eliminate the engine as being the problem, I don't jump to changing the cam gears and converter thinking that's the problem! But it seems many on this thread jump right to the cam and drive train skipping the engine altogether!!!!!

It would be nice if the OP would at least come and let us know if this thread is still open or if its dead because I'm going to dump it off my list very soon!

Jester
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
check the cap and rotor and wires install. There is a outside change there is a problem with this
distributor..
Do a simple cylindr balance test to detect misfireing-weak cylinders, using a tach and or vacuum gauge.

You should have just locked out the HEI distributor you already had.

If you cannot trace the problem reinstall the old distributor and lock it out.

Further these e curve distributors do not advance the timing. They only work by more or less retard
from the base line setting.

Verify the actual timing at idle in gear and the timing at full advance and the accumulated total timing when vacuum advance is active. Using a timing light.

You want 36deg BTDC steady at idle in gear....36deg steady at idle in neutral.
36deg at high rpm WOT . No vacuum advance....

and +10deg of added vacuum advance when vacuum advance is active and high manifold vacuum is applied.

The start retard also accumulative. So must be accounted for in the base line distributor timing setup.

Remember this E curve distributor never actually "advances the timing" it all works by taking away timing from the base setup.

in various amount depending on the switches set up.

Use a timing light to verify each timing curve mode idle......idle in gear......... WOT max advance........and part throttle applyed vacuum advance.

The base line setup has to be readjusted depending on which amount of start retard you give it.

Like I said can be a bit pesky to get it set up right.

The idle timing must not drop when in gear or the motor will stall.

The carbs throttles pri and sec must be in the correct position (idle fuel transfer slot exposure) at idle.
Or the idle fuel curve is funky. A blown leaky power valve or a power valve that is opening at idle in gear
when manifold vacuum is lowest will mess up the idle too.
If the plugs are black fouled, replace.

These e curve distributors are more trouble than they are worth on a motor like yours with this cam as the
motor needs full locked out timing at idle any way.

Are you using this distributor "stand alone" or running it thru a CD ignition box ( MSD 6 etc)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
The distributor is to be locked in at Q setting 1 & 7 before being installed in the engine and set with the timing light at 36* Idling ( Or total desired) !!! And carb reset to desired Idle !! Then when you start the engine it will start at (#1 dial) retarded position and then run and idle at (#2 dial) locked out total position!! Its very easy!

As you turn the distributor to advance it to desired 36* (or total) the Idle will speed up and must be adjusted, your idle metering screws need to be adjusted too!!! You also need higher octane with the timing locked out at 36* ETC. if your running pump gas? I would run 110 for initial testing and adjust up or down later (I wouldn't want to take a chance on pre detonation)

You don't buy a pcv for a normal grocery getter, your parts store will try to sell you one that is generic!!! Tell them you want one for a specific high performance vehicle like an L88 Vette it will have a different part # !!!! You may have to order it from year one or a GM dealer!!!! The L88 Vettes pcv is designed for the big cam and less vacuum!!!!! I have a book with the PCV part #s somewhere in the house I'll have to find it but Fbird or some one else will probably have them!!!


Jester




Found it!!
L88 & 454 HO and LT1s PCV reproduction #FP 1003 , GM #9901N
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
My post wasn't aimed at you Jeeper , And your impression may be right! But I'm looking at it as if the converter is slipping at bottom end (not locking up) Needing more throttle at normal driveing speeds on the street bellow lock up and a higher stall converter would just add more converter inefficiency (slippage) at street level RPMs He said its strong at top end RPM ranges but at bottom end its gutless and we don't know his exact description of his low speed complaint!

To me for Drag only I would choose a converter that stalls at around peak torque but for street and strip I would choose a converter that flash stalls before reaching peak torque usually when the cam starts to come into its range! Which is what I think the OP was hoping to achieve (street and strip efficiency) The best of both worlds its a goal not achievable! you lose at both ends LOL? For most street and street/strip combinations he probably would want a stall in the 2,500-3,500rpm range. But he bought an off-the-shelf converter thinking it will give him the advertised stall and unless it has been "PROVEN" to do so in an identical setup he has no Idea what its stall really is? We and the OP have no Idea when his Peak torque is or what his combinations torque and rpm curve is?

The suggestions being made concerning his torque converter, timeing , carb, headers being too small gears ETC are of no value till he gets back on here with results of his first test and if it doesn't work we can help with more tests and suggestions till he straightens out his engine tune.

If the engine was running perfect and we knew his torque range it would make it easy to pin point the power loss through the drive train and chassis!

If a car comes into my shop and has no bottom end but is performing well at mid and top end I'll test drive it, and then I check and trouble shoot the engine first starting at the timing and go down the list to tune and eliminate the engine as being the problem, I don't jump to changing the cam gears and converter thinking that's the problem! But it seems many on this thread jump right to the cam and drive train skipping the engine altogether!!!!!

It would be nice if the OP would at least come and let us know if this thread is still open or if its dead because I'm going to dump it off my list very soon!

Jester


I haven't posted anything bcuz I haven't had a chance to get down to the car works been crazy since we are short staffed and i'm also in the process of moving...I have been keeping up with the thread and I've seen u have been posting a lot of useful info especially the one about the build u did which was very similar to my build....after I get this move over with I will be turning my focus back to my car
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:34 PM
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
I haven't posted anything bcuz I haven't had a chance to get down to the car works been crazy since we are short staffed and i'm also in the process of moving...I have been keeping up with the thread and I've seen u have been posting a lot of useful info especially the one about the build u did which was very similar to my build....after I get this move over with I will be turning my focus back to my car

Yes for some reason ppl are chopping at the bit to give you bad advice. A smaller cam would be a big disater becasue of compressions ratio. Jumping head long into something you dont have time to work on is also not advised.

In this case the op has made no promises about how fast he will take ppl advise.

Everyone that says change the combo or other unrealted issues should be ignored. They have no clue what they are talking about. This car and combo will jump and run when properly tunned and setup. I also would not buy a converter until its sure thats the problem. Some ppl will always run too small a cam and never see an engine run like it could with the proper sized cam. What you have is right where it needs to be.
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