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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 12:46 AM
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Before you spend the money on a dyno, you should try timing it by ear. Advance the timing until you get a slight ping under acceleration, then retard the timing just to where it doesn't ping. You might be surprised with what you end up with.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJM97Z View Post
I did something similar to my 406, installed a larger cam with alot of overlap & lost bottom end, even with 4.11s & a 4200 stall i wasn't impressed, had the timing at 37* all in around 2500 rpm, My compression is at 10.4 with 64cc "iron eagles", My piston volume is 8cc, You will be fine on pump gas with 11.1 on "aluminum heads", but your tune needs to be right, plus run a colder plug.

What i did'nt like about my cam was its 108 LSA, your better off with a larger LSA 112-114 with higher compression engines on "pump fuel", I went back to my milder cam & its loaded with torque, It even runs faster ET & MPH with the smaller cam, Its all on how much time you want to spend tuning it, plus your going to need more stall/gears with that cam.

My advice, change the cam, its not that hard,then install something that'll work with your 3000 stall & 3.73 gears, you'll be much-much happier, Heres the cam i'm running with a 2800 stall & 3.73 gears.

Lunati "barebones" line.

465/488, 224/234 @50, 112/107 2000-6000 RPM

Its runs great on 91 octane & 210-215 cranking pressure

It pulls around 16 inches manifold vacuum, sure its a bit mild, but i'm running 12.3s @ 109-110 with this cam.
Didn't really want to change anything in the engine i'm trying to get the most from what I have already
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 09:10 AM
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LJM97Z
could you show me the math to back up your post please? I run a bigger cam and less gear and have no bottom end problems.You say 108 LSA is not as good as 112-114 LSA? Please show me the math for this calculation? please also explain why rear gears make a difference to tuning an engine?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
Didn't really want to change anything in the engine i'm trying to get the most from what I have already
If you stick with us we will all help tune it in without changing parts!

Jester
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
i think i will end up biting the bullet and get it dyno tuned

If your on a tight budget, some collages with an auto coarse have dinos call and check they don't charge labor, and use outside cars to teach the course, and will dino your car free!

Jester

What diameter rear tires do run with the 3.73 gear?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 02:59 PM
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fbird88? whats the matter? you almost treat members with what appears to be some disdain?

You usually offer great advice with details. lately the details have dwindled. Not one single time in the almost eight thousand posts have you ever thanked anyone?
You also have to remember people like Chris,Gary,and many others understand exactly what you have in mind when you say to lock out timing,and why you say it.A lot of new members do not.People hire professionals all the time,even if they themselves are professional.
I agree with most of what you post,most of the time and I think you have a lot to offer. I just hope w/e is bothering you passes soon,,,,
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
If your on a tight budget, some collages with an auto coarse have dinos call and check they don't charge labor, and use outside cars to teach the course, and will dino your car free!

Jester

What diameter rear tires do run with the 3.73 gear?
I gave a 215 70 15 tire on there now
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
I guess its a lot easier to post 3 or 4 pages of nonsense on teh internet than spend 10minutes to go to the garage and simply lock out the HEI's advance system so it cannot move, by binding it tight using two common plastic Zip ties,
and stick the rotor back on. Stick the weights and springs in your tool box.
reset the now fixed locked timing to 36deg BTDC and go for a ride.

It is just that simple.

Or .... you need a cam,, you need a dyno tune,,,, you need gears.... yad yada yada.

10 pages later
The first description u put up about locking out the timing did not seem that simple.....but if that all it takes that will definitely be the first step
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
I gave a 215 70 15 tire on there now
215-70R15 = 6.0 in tread pattern 26.9" dia. 751 revolutions per mile

Can I ask? how old are you? And whats your location? Is it a cold climate or high elevation?

Jester

Last edited by painted jester; 02-22-2013 at 04:27 PM.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
215-70R15 = 6.0 in tread pattern 26.9" dia. 751 revolutions per mile

Can I ask? how old are you? And whats your location? Is it a cold climate or high elevation?

Jester
im 26 and just really got into the high performance stuff....I'm located in columbia sc
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
im 26 and just really got into the high performance stuff....I'm located in columbia sc

Jester
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 07:00 AM
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Can some one post step by step directions on how to lockout the timing....and include any extra stuff I might need to complete this task.....u can call it locking out timing for dummies lol
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 08:26 AM
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You do realise the locked timing is for testing purposes only?
What was propose by fbird is the same as jamming a stick under the front door to let fresh air in the house.
Basically,take off cap and rotor
play with advance weights to make sure they move
Advance them with your finger by pushing the weights away from their resting position until they are fully open
Jam a nylon pull tie in where ever you can fit it and attach 2(1 to each weight)
This will "jam" the weights fully advanced.
start car
set timing to 35
drive car:
test for ping when accellerating from stop
test for part throttle drive ability
carb especially idle will need to be set before driving
Make sure you trim loose ends from nylon pull ties before installing cap and rotor

While the cap is off:
Take float bowls off carb and note front and rear jet sizes and power valve numbers.
numbers are stamped onto both parts.
alse note if rear of carb has a metering block or plate
Do you have a holley?
If its a carter/edelbrock,take out the metering rod and check number
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 03:16 PM
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http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...=1361653644644



I have to leave ( the better half is ) someone explain where to put the ties!!!

Read Cobalts post and click on the yellow high lighted area!

For a test set you time at total with a light! mark the distributor base and block with a felt marker so they align now set base time so engine starts good and mark it again, After its tied off start it at the base time mark and turn the dist. to the total time mark and drive it (test it) you wont need a turn back for this test!!! I have to leave (The wife )LOL

Some one explain !!! If he doesn't understand


" yes dear Im done)"


LOLJester
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 08:51 PM
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Just turn up the timing from 32 to 37 or 38 degrees and see if it runs any better.
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