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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
215-70R15 = 6.0 in tread pattern 26.9" dia. 751 revolutions per mile

Can I ask? how old are you? And whats your location? Is it a cold climate or high elevation?

Jester
im 26 and just really got into the high performance stuff....I'm located in columbia sc

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2013, 05:17 PM
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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

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Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
im 26 and just really got into the high performance stuff....I'm located in columbia sc

Jester
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 06:00 AM
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Can some one post step by step directions on how to lockout the timing....and include any extra stuff I might need to complete this task.....u can call it locking out timing for dummies lol
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 07:26 AM
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You do realise the locked timing is for testing purposes only?
What was propose by fbird is the same as jamming a stick under the front door to let fresh air in the house.
Basically,take off cap and rotor
play with advance weights to make sure they move
Advance them with your finger by pushing the weights away from their resting position until they are fully open
Jam a nylon pull tie in where ever you can fit it and attach 2(1 to each weight)
This will "jam" the weights fully advanced.
start car
set timing to 35
drive car:
test for ping when accellerating from stop
test for part throttle drive ability
carb especially idle will need to be set before driving
Make sure you trim loose ends from nylon pull ties before installing cap and rotor

While the cap is off:
Take float bowls off carb and note front and rear jet sizes and power valve numbers.
numbers are stamped onto both parts.
alse note if rear of carb has a metering block or plate
Do you have a holley?
If its a carter/edelbrock,take out the metering rod and check number
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 01:54 PM
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When I do it I remove the weights and springs. Then wrap the bare mechanism fully advanced with the two tie wraps.
Make sure the buckles of the wraps are pointed down under so the rotor goes back on. Make sure the rotor is seated correctly
back on.
Th weights and springs are not reused.
You must reset the timing. 36deg BTDC.

You will need the starter brace and the interupt switch for hot restarting.

If you cannot do this get the local kid with a mini bike to show you.

its permanent if you have done it right.
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:16 PM
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http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...=1361653644644



I have to leave ( the better half is ) someone explain where to put the ties!!!

Read Cobalts post and click on the yellow high lighted area!

For a test set you time at total with a light! mark the distributor base and block with a felt marker so they align now set base time so engine starts good and mark it again, After its tied off start it at the base time mark and turn the dist. to the total time mark and drive it (test it) you wont need a turn back for this test!!! I have to leave (The wife )LOL

Some one explain !!! If he doesn't understand


" yes dear Im done)"


LOLJester
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 07:51 PM
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Just turn up the timing from 32 to 37 or 38 degrees and see if it runs any better.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 08:31 PM
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You can accomplish basically the same thing by using very light springs that will allow the mechanical advance to go to full advance at a low rpm. Two light springs should be about right to have the mechanical all in early enough, but still have enough spring tension to return the mechanical advance to rest w/the engine off. This negates the need for a starter switch, while still giving all the available advance at low rpm.

A page w/some more info: Limiting/locking mechanical advance

If you remove the weights and springs and use tie wraps, etc. to lock the liming, DO NOT remove the cam of the mechanical advance mechanism. It holds the advance plate to the center shaft.

Last edited by cobalt327; 02-23-2013 at 08:39 PM.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 08:48 PM
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reloads?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
You can accomplish basically the same thing by using very light springs that will allow the mechanical advance to go to full advance at a low rpm. Two light springs should be about right to have the mechanical all in early enough, but still have enough spring tension to return the mechanical advance to rest w/the engine off. This negates the need for a starter switch, while still giving all the available advance at low rpm.

A page w/some more info: Limiting/locking mechanical advance

If you remove the weights and springs and use tie wraps, etc. to lock the liming, DO NOT remove the cam of the mechanical advance mechanism. It holds the advance plate to the center shaft.
those are big hand gun cartridges
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
You can accomplish basically the same thing by using very light springs that will allow the mechanical advance to go to full advance at a low rpm. Two light springs should be about right to have the mechanical all in early enough, but still have enough spring tension to return the mechanical advance to rest w/the engine off. This negates the need for a starter switch, while still giving all the available advance at low rpm.

A page w/some more info: Limiting/locking mechanical advance

If you remove the weights and springs and use tie wraps, etc. to lock the liming, DO NOT remove the cam of the mechanical advance mechanism. It holds the advance plate to the center shaft.
All sound good except for one thing:
I does not work. The light tension springs allows the timing to move around way too much at idle. The timing drops off when you go in gear and flairs up in neutral resulting in a idle that is all over the place and poor throttle response
and a engine that loads up, stalls in gear and idles up and down all the time.

With the locked out timing the cammed engine gets the stable timing it needs at idle . Gets a clean stable consistent idle and excellent throttle response.
Yes the engine needs this much timing at idle.
. Using the switch becomes second nature in a very short time.
The benefits far out weight the bother.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:17 PM
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If you don't have enough sense to use enough tension, the timing might fluctuate. This actually takes a little thinking and maybe some small amount of trial and retrial to get set correctly, unlike your no-brainer "lock the timing, one size fits all" timing setting.

For accuracy, locked timing is worse than a stopped clock- a stopped clock is at least right twice a day...
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:32 PM
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A engine is not a clock. (with a cam like this in the motor and a auto trans),,,it ends up so close to dead on accurate that running any kind of a mechanical timing curve is pretty much a waste of time.

Works really well when combined with vacuum advance controlled by ported vacuum. (about 8 to 12deg at cruise and a limit of about 15deg max)
Give an engine what it wants and it does something really surprising. It runs real well.

This engine will run the best with the locked out timing. You may not like. But the engine will.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:41 PM
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At least, if the timing is going to be locked, go to the small amount of extra effort to secure the mechanism w/a screw or two. The quality of tie wraps vary greatly, some I wouldn't use to close a loaf of whole wheat.

I have been advising using ported when there's a need for a lot of initial timing for a long time, this is nothing new.

Instead of bothering me, let the guy decide what he wants to do.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
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At least, if the timing is going to be locked, go to the small amount of extra effort to secure the mechanism w/a screw or two. The quality of tie wraps vary greatly, some I wouldn't use to close a loaf of whole wheat.

I have been advising using ported when there's a need for a lot of initial timing for a long time, this is nothing new.

Instead of bothering me, let the guy decide what he wants to do.
I will more than likely try both methods to see how it responds to each...will try the light springs first(maybe 1 light 1 medium) bein that I bought a recurve kit a while back but never used it.....and if that doesn't work I will go with the locked out method...
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90caprice408 View Post
I will more than likely try both methods to see how it responds to each...will try the light springs first(maybe 1 light 1 medium) bein that I bought a recurve kit a while back but never used it.....and if that doesn't work I will go with the locked out method...
That's a plan. When you get to the locked timing, remember to reset the timing to fully advanced after the mechanical advance mechanism is locked. This will take a dial back timing light or a timing tape to see the timing that far advanced- the stock timing tab will not help.
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