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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 12:20 PM
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There is no way it can be dead on perfect It can be better with his miss matched combo, He put together a build that is fighting itself.
It isn't a top end build or mid range build or bottom end build, every aspect of this build is fighting the other combinations!!!! The locked out timing is a band aid to poor planning! I'm sorry to say that but its fact!! Even if I dinoed that car I would suggest the changes suggested in this thread!

Like the locked out timing? I use it at the strip when I'm idling at 2500 rpm and don't care about street drivability!!!!! But for a street driven sleeper I would put my dist. on a machine and set the curve beyond limitation of springs and weights! Not lock it out! I still don't know what dist. he's running any one on here know?

I dont see why lighter springs or heavier weights, and vacuum adv. (if he has it) cant bring in a quick curve to a max 36 or over unless the dist is limited in its adjustments and wont take customization attempts!! I think locking out street distributors is lazy and done by novices following advice on blogs by others who have done it without trying anything else! And they don't know how well the engine could really run with a good curve added!!!!! The lock out is a basic back yard test to see if it needs a quicker curve and total advance! Seems like in this new age of google a lock solves all!!!

Maybe just a simple dist. change would suffice like an E-curve with Digitally controlled adjustable electronic advance so he can set a centrifugal advance and vacuum advance curve with ease electronically. Dial-in a rev limit to protect his engine!

He hasn't even posted pics of his set up on the engine. He could have bad vacuum hose routing Maybe a bad squirt from the accelerator pumps that a simple pump cam change could cure Etc, Etc!

408:
These are only my opinions, I mean you no offense to your accomplishment on your first build! But I must be honest in my opinion! You need to spend money and change things to straighten this out even your tires are too tall to take advantage of your gear and stall! You are looking for a quick fix and a band aid isn't going to work! If you just change the cam or at the least advance it a little, should be your first step to match the gear and stall!

If I'm bumping heads with others on here's opinion! Its only opinions.

Jester

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 12:38 PM
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I agree with most of what PJ posted.I would not use locked out timing on the street either. Ive seen more than one broken starter housing,especially back when we mounted them to the bell housing.A distributor with 12 ish advance allows higher static timing.I dont care about curve if I have a 3500 stall,because its all in by 3k or less anyways
the jetting needs to be addressed,,,

The reasons I say tune on a dyno,is"
air fuel ratio,will be correct,not guessed
Timing,power will drop off when too far advanced that you cannot feel by seat of your pants tuning,,
part throttle drivability and transition to full power can be graphed on a magnetic dyno.
(picture is worth a 1000 words)
Its safer
Its hard to find a spot to test and tune other than a race track and passes may be limited.

after you get the tune that suits you,you write down all the information and you can compare max torque Vs max horse power settings
decide if you want a race tune or a more moderate street tune
you can test booster venturis/air bleeds/jets/timing settings more efficiently.

You might pass on the 11.4:1 A/F ration you get for max hp,and go with a 12.8:1 A/R ratio that delivers less over all hp but delivers nicer everyday driving manners when driven spritely as apposed to W.F.O.
You do not have to go to this extent either
maybe get a good tech that can change boosters,airbleeds and jets all at once (because he understands and has experience) and get you in a close enough tune in as little as 4-5 pulls
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 12:58 PM
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here are two pics i have in my phone.....car is like 30 miles from me so i don't get to work on her often due to my work schedule
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 01:08 PM
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It looks like you have no PCV If not you need one or a different type of crank case evacuation system (Its very importent) It will help your rings seal for one! And help evacuate fuemes and vapors like moisture, acids, ETC.

408:
I hope you don't mind me posting your info and question

Jester

"to answer your question my distributor is just hei distributor that i bought off ebay from skip white performance(clear cap)....would a gear and stall upgrade help this build out any(3500stall and 4:30 gears)?"[/QUOTE]
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 02:00 PM
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Its a minor detail,but worth testing.I had the same air cleaner cover,made more horse power with a steel top.
lets get the basics fixed first. gears wont help the engine tune,maybe hide some of the flaws
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 02:28 PM
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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

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Skip White Hei dist.
Item No: 6500-R Clear cap
HIGH PERFORMANCE CHEVY SUPER 65K VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR 6500-R.
Price: $38.50 + $10.00 shipping
Is this the dist. you bought? If it is I did some research! Skip White does not recommend these for cams much bigger then stock and they are limited in the amount of timing and how much curve you can achieve,They are a stock replacement OEM China built!



The one Skip White Recommended for a couple of steps up in cam choice is: Item No: 6601-R
SBC CHEVY PRO BILLET DISTRIBUTOR CHEVY # 6601-R.
Price: $47.50 + shipping
YOU MUST RUN A CDI BOX, AND EXTERNAL COIL WITH THIS DISTRIBUTOR (NOT INCLUDED)

Really cheep prices but I cant find anything on a Skip white distributor for an all out build?

Jester


Will gear and stall upgrade help this build out any(3500stall and 4:30 gears) They will help after the engine tune but first things first Lets de bug the engine!!!!! LOL
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:08 PM
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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

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408:

If I bought your car now, and was on a tight budget! I would keep the 3.73s, stall converter, intake and carb, and bring the whole build together with a good flat tappet cam ( cheaper then a roller) that comes in at around 1400 to 5800 RPM, and a duration around 225* , 110 center, and maybe around 480 lift, (my choice would be a solid cam) but a hyd. would be fine and then maybe run the cam a little advanced! I'd go to shorter wider tires, and upgrade the distributor and ignition! (but that S.W. dist. in it might work well ? ) I would tune in the carb for a nice crisp response and transition point, and set a good timing curve.

Then put the cam I just pulled out away till I could afford the up grades to match it! Induction system, gears, converter, ! Or use it on my next build and build the engine and components around the cam!

But lets try to pull your build together with some good tuning of the carb and check out the other things that help bottom end!

Jester
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:16 PM
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I would like to see a video of this car launching and driving?
so many possibilities.
are the ignition adjustments made yet?
carb is next
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
I would like to see a video of this car launching and driving?
so many possibilities.
are the ignition adjustments made yet?
carb is next
No haven't made ignition adjustments yet couldn't find an extra foot laying around today to help
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:12 PM
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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

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3310 750 vacume secondary no rear metering block with a main body kit right? Is that a vacuum secondary Holley with just a metering plate in the rear bowl ? I don't see a rear metering block! The main body choke horn has been milled off! Were the jets stepped up to accommodate? Was it a 750 before the modifications or is it estimated at that now! Did you put on a Proform or Holley main body kit?

Jester

Are you running a positive crank case ventilation system or a PCV?

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Old 02-27-2013, 09:34 PM
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I think it originally was the 3310 Holley with vacuum secondaries..I bought it used and the original main body had the air cleaner stud broken off in it..tried to drill it out but couldn't so I bought the proform main body and switched everything over....carb kept leaking after having been rebuilt also tried settin float levels but after starting the car the level kept dropping causing the car to shut off....so instead of dumping more money into that carb I bought the summit carb
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:39 PM
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90caprice408
you should watch the video on the last page of my thread?
thats what a launch can be,
expensive though
actually there are a few good vids on various pages.gives you a chance to see other members cars
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:47 PM
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http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...1&d=1362026797


This is what your running now? with a little research: Summit is base lining their carbs. with (F)77, (R)79 jetting and a 9.5 PV on the primary side. That 9.5 PV is for a very stock engine!

Jester
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 10:06 PM
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The suggestion about a dyno tune shouldn't be one of your regrets not doing after you damaged the engine in a shade tree attempts.The money spent on that at this point could be the best money you spent yet.That is my suggestion.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 10:25 PM
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Im a little concerned that carb you posted the picture? does it have removable air bleeds? secondary metering plate?
we might be finding a few bigger issues,glad you posted those pictures
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