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Old 05-04-2005, 02:20 PM
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Very much MPH

(Again I prevent at once – question only theoretical)
Well, that even old cars have a plenty of potential, I have understood. And I have thought: it’s possible to make from late ’50 car 220MPH road burner? More exactly, I suspect that is possible, but I want to find out, what mods is needed. How much horses, what tranny with what gear ratios etc. Decide, on what example explains. But something is better large and heavy. Almost all late ’50 cars were large and heavy though. More shortly, decide you.

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Old 05-04-2005, 03:12 PM
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I would think you would need a rear end gear low (numerically) enough to allow the engine to not run out of rpm's before it reaches that speed. As for power, you would need enough to power the amount the weight of the car to that speed and overcome the effects of drag of car at that speed. Making the car more aerodynamic would help as well. Also some sort of wing or something to keep the car on the ground and gripping might also be necessary.
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Old 05-04-2005, 06:26 PM
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your gonna have to redo the entire aerodynamics of the car at that speed drag lift and all the fun forces start getting noticeable. the bottom of the car will need to be curves like the top of a wing to create suction, and the rest of the car has to be flawless in its finish. drag increases by the 4th power, so, it adds up quick.
many horses will be required for that boat to reach that speed, my guess 900+.

hope that made sense!
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Old 05-04-2005, 06:46 PM
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Required horsepower is proportional to the cube of the top speed. So, if the top speed is originally 110 mph, it would take 8 times the original horsepower to reach 220 mph.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:28 PM
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8 times the original horsepower? The greater part of them had 300+ HP engines and can go...seems, around 120+MPH. So,needed approximately 2000+HP.It is too much...Well, about 1500 horses is possible to get....You mean stock 3-speed trannies, or...?
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Old 05-04-2005, 10:03 PM
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You'd be hard up to find a 50's car with 300+ horsepower in my opinion. Maybe some old caddies but they were also extremely heavy.

You wont get there utilizing the stock engine out of any of those old cars.
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:14 AM
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Ежу понятно…

Quote:
Originally Posted by Siggy_Freud
You'd be hard up to find a 50's car with 300+ horsepower in my opinion. Maybe some old caddies but they were also extremely heavy.

You wont get there utilizing the stock engine out of any of those old cars.
I also speak, that the stock engine, it not that, needed something more advanced. That Caddies is extremely heavy, it’s certainly true, but say yes, late ’50 Caddy, which can go 220 MPH would be totally awesome.
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:39 AM
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much MPH

Four basic ingredients to top speed.
Horsepower, Aerodynamics, weight, and gearing.
Aerodynamics plays a lot more crucial roll as the speeds get higher.
For instance, The Nextel Cup cars are capable of doing 200 MPH, and do it with engines that put out approximately 600 HP, in 3500 LB vehicles. The key with that is the aerodynamics.
As for cars from the 50's and 60's not being capable of high speeds, many cars built back then were easily putting out in excess of 300 HP, and could run all day long on the highways at speeds in excess of 120-130 MPH, and there were more than a few that could top out over that.
The biggest problem with them was that most were designed with the aerodynamics of a brick, and thats what kept them from attaining higher speeds.
Realisitically, and it has been done. A full sized car, like a mid 60's Chevy or Ford, weighing in at 3800 LBs, could run in excess of 175 MPH with an engine putting out about 500-550 HP.
The key is knowing how to make those old bodies aerodynamic so they could attain such speeds, and keep them stable. Having raced stock cars in my past, I had to learn a lot of those tricks the hard way.
Another consideration is that you will need tires that will hold up at those speeds as well.
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Old 05-05-2005, 12:15 PM
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Вот я и говорю, что если не аэродинамикой, т&#

I also speak, that if not aerodynamics, so though indemnify by power. Aerodynamics of a brick – it’s said fine! As I know, early Ford Galaxie have heavy weight & very bad aerodynamics, and its performer’s image was maintained larger and larger engines. Certainly, 1000+HP engine and race tranny can yank around even ’59 Caddy with pretty high speed, but you have me curious in “how to make those old bodies aerodynamic».
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Old 05-05-2005, 02:44 PM
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Wasn't it Andy Granatelli who "streamlined" a '57 Plymouth and ran it at Bonneville? Should be able to find it somewhere on the 'net. Come to think of it, I think it was on the cover of one of the Hot Rod annuals.
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Old 05-05-2005, 05:11 PM
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saw them interviewing one of those 50's nascar racers who bootlegged whiskey back in the day saying his car would go "180mph up hill or down" and it was a pre 50's something or other but sounded like just about anything those guys drove would do it. on a back country road too. and no doubt at night. can you imagine that?
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:36 PM
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It is really interesting, as they reached it...
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:42 PM
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moonshine kicks ***
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Old 05-05-2005, 10:43 PM
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200 MPH stockers

As for aerodynamics and streamlining, there are several things you can do to make those cars a little more slippery.
One is to lift the body off of the frame and remove the insulators. This will lower the body between 1-2 inches on the frame, putting it closer to the ground, reducing the amount of air flow going under it. Also lowering the vehicle on the suspension (not as in a lowrider) to get the correct ride height, and that is not a job for someone that isnt up to speed on setting up chassis. This will require resetting your front end geometry for the vehicle to handle properly.
Another trick is to use fine mesh screen on the grill, or even blank it out with sheetmetal. You will still get plenty of air flow under the bumper, to keep your engine cool.
Shaving off all the crome, door handles etc.
"Tightening up the Body", by realigning all the fenders, doors etc so you eliminate or reduce the gaps between them. Most needful of this is the gap between the hood and the fenders.
Close off openings in the bumpers, like slots for license plates.
Take sheetmetal and make end caps for the bumpers, to reduce the turbulance at the corners.
fill in the gap between the upper and lower back edges of the front bumper and upper and lower leading edges on the rear bumper and the body. One way of doing that on alot of vehicles is to shorten the bumper brackets so the bumper fits flush against the body work.
putting an air dam under the front of the vehicle works well. Place the air dam just below the radiator mount, and all the way across under radiator support.
Louvering the hood at the rear, just ahead of the firewall will allow all the hot engine compartment air to escape, reducing the resistance to air flow in the front end.
If you are good with metal work, raise the windshield out from its mounting tabs so it is flush with the roof and side posts.
Do the same with the rear glass, as well. With the kind of speeds you are wanting to go, you will want to install 2-3 retaining straps from top to bottom on the rear window, as that is a high vacuum area, and your window can actually be sucked out of the mountings.
A real spoiler on the rear deck will help in keeping the rear end down on the ground, as at high speeds, they do tend to want to lift. Beware though, spoilers also tend to create a lot of drag, like pulling a parachute, so you only want to put a couple degrees of down angle on it. Just enough to keep the rear stable at speed. best to use an adjustable spoiler. Use one that mounts close to the trunk, not one that sticks up a kazillion feet in the air.
Inclosing the underside of the car with sheetmetal will also make it slicker. Smokey Yunick did that successfully.
Richard Petty actually dented up the roof of one car like a golf ball, and that works as well. Would take an aeronautical engineer or a golf ball designer to explain all that stuff about laminar air flow.
Putting clear covers over the headlights, that mount flush with the body will reduce the parachute effect of the headlight wells.
Same with the tail lights if they are inset into the body.
Just a few things on making a brick slippery. They all work, and have been used for years.
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Old 05-05-2005, 11:17 PM
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Dr. Shapiro discusses the "golf ball effect" in his book, "Shape And Flow." A swing that would produce a drive of 230 yards would, with a smooth golf ball, provide a distance of only 50 yards. Golfers initially discovered the effect when they noticed that "scarred" balls traveled much further than new balls.

The reason for this is that the size of the wake (the "hole" that is being punched in the air) is affected by the point at which the boundary layer separates from the golf ball.

It would be interesting to take a modern NASCAR ride and glue coarse sandpaper over the major exterior surfaces near where boundary separation is expected to occur. (I'm sure this sort of thing has been tried and there probably is an SAE paper available on the results.) Since I don't know the Reynold's Numbers involved (golf ball and race car), I have no idea whether it would help or not.
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