I just installed my rebuilt Muncie. It was rebuilt by a local tranny shop that has a good rep. When I installed it I put in a new Centerforce II clutch. I had the Flywheel resurfaced. and thought I'd be golden. Drove it about 15 miles and it seemed fine. Now I have a major Vibration.
I spoke to Centerforce and asked if they thought it was the clutch or tranny. He said probably not the Clutch but there have been problems when people don't use the correct bolts when installing the clutch. He said the bolts need to be shoulder bolts. If not the clutch could slip 0.030" and cause the vibration. I don't remember if they were shoulder bolts or not.
It seems more in 1st and 3rd gear and when the car is on jack stands and you rev it a little you can see the engine vibrate. I checked the wires, engine mounts etc..and they seem fine. I beleive it's definately in the clutch or tranny. If it is the tranny it would be covered by the tranny shop if not it's my problem.
Any ideas ???
can't help you with your problem but i bet if you suggest to the tranny shop that they are at fault they are just going to turn around and blame you if you're the one who put it back in the car. they'll say it was fine when it left here kind of thing.
BOY I HATE Vibration problems!!! I DON'T think "shoulder bolts is your problem. ANY 3/8" bolt will have same dia. of 0.375" so having a shoulder won't do anything. BUT you have to have a GOOD grade bolt ...say GR. 5 minium or GR. 8! But this again is not your problem. I'm guessing the main input shaft bearing is bad! On rebuilds alot of the time guys clean up the parts and use the ones that don't look bad. The main input bearing can "look" good but still be bad. I use to check mine by using compressed air to drive the thing up to speed, and if they were bad a harmonic vibration would set in (damn things would almost take your fingers off!). Sometime "cheap new bearings" would do the same thing. I would go back to the trans re-builder and talk with him. Ask him how he did yourr trans. My 2 cents ...Good Luck! ...Mark
don't want to be a wise guy
how was the pilot bushing
Check the bolts on the flywheel and pressure plate. The person is correct on a shouldered bolt. He isn't correct in the name, but what he is trying to say is that the bolt must have a shank that is long enough to go through the pressure plate. A fully threaded bolt is not to be used. The contact area is not the same and the pressure plate can move. My other thought would be flywheel bolts. I would check them both. The transmission input bearing should have acted up in neutral with the clutch engaged(pedal out) and the vibration should stop if the clutch is disengaged(pedal in). Bolts need to be Grade 8. They sell them at most auto parts stores with a Mr. Gasket line or similar.
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