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Old 05-14-2011, 10:06 PM
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video of my paint after 2nd coat

Guys I have had one heck of a learning experiance trying to paint my first car. I color sanded my first base coat due to runs and blotchiness created by my new finishline gun "pulsing". It wasn't the guns fault, while cleaning it, the fluid tip seal fell out and I didn't see it. Once I replaced the seal it worked fine. I put a second base coat on tonight and still am having problems. I am going to have to learn how to dial the gun in better for one thing. The other two problems I am having is trash in the paint and what I beleive are water spots or fish eye's . I don't know how to tell the two apart. Can you guys help me by watching the video? does some very fine trash bury in the clear?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rodUudbzzkc

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Old 05-14-2011, 11:11 PM
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I commented before I watched the video, where you then addressed that you have several water filtration steps in place. It looks like you still have dust in the air just landing on your paint.

Last edited by Lizer; 05-14-2011 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpsyclonex2002
Guys I have had one heck of a learning experiance trying to paint my first car. I color sanded my first base coat due to runs and blotchiness created by my new finishline gun "pulsing". It wasn't the guns fault, while cleaning it, the fluid tip seal fell out and I didn't see it. Once I replaced the seal it worked fine. I put a second base coat on tonight and still am having problems. I am going to have to learn how to dial the gun in better for one thing. The other two problems I am having is trash in the paint and what I beleive are water spots or fish eye's . I don't know how to tell the two apart. Can you guys help me by watching the video? does some very fine trash bury in the clear?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rodUudbzzkc
its hard to run basecoat if its mixed close to directions. you keep mentioning how well it flowed on the flat areas. are you trying to spray it too wet like ss paint to make it shine? base coat does not need to shine like paint. all it has to do is cover consistantly. it is supposed to look dull when done. your clear will give you your shine.
as far as the dirt. most dirt comes off the car or off you. the tack rag is your best friend. go over it several times. the plastic masking on the windshield should be replaced. the beauty of bc/cc is it allows you to repair those spots in the base before you clear and if you get dust in the clear itself most will buff out.

Last edited by freethinker52; 05-15-2011 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:44 AM
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I do not believe Barry meant for you to shoot over reduced basecoat through a properly functioning spray gun. I think that was trying to trouble shoot you problem.

In my experiance base is about the easiest thing to spray when mixed to the manufacturers recommendations, no need to mess with it in my experiance.

Looking at your video you have it on too thin, which is probably from being over reduced, along with not enough coats.

It appears you tried to compensate for the thinness by applying heavy wet coats. You should have applied more thin coats and gotten complete and even coverage.

If you were to have put on thin coats, a few things would have been in your favor.
1: you probably wouldnt have the runs
2: you would probably have a lot more even coverage
3: light coats flash off faster and when tacked before the next coat you wouldnt have as much trash in the paint.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:20 AM
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paint runs and dirt

I agree with the others mixing the paint to manufacturers specs,spray thin coats allowing about 15 to 20 minutes inbetween coats until you have good coverage. But too many coats is bad too. In the movie I see shadows coming through the paint, the extra thin coats will eliminate that.As for the dirt , it seems to be around hood or trunk gaps and these areas need to be blown clean and wiped with the tack cloth until absolutely dust free or when you pass the paint sprayer over that area the dust will be blown into the air and eventually end up in your paint.I don't know if the others will agree but we still water down the floor to keep the dust down, it works for us, good luck Chevy mikee
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:25 AM
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Short of moving the intake and exhaust filters.....
blow yourself off
wear a head sock
blow and tack the paper before each coat(the dried overspray will fly around and look like dirt)
duct tape those filters to make a better seal

Did you use a wax & grease remover? W&G 's are not all equal the stuff from the auto parts stores will cause the same problems....(duplicolor w&G is the absolute worse) ...to fix the fish eyes dry spray a couple coats over them...
OF is right about spraying base.....you should have added more base to that over thinned base....
when you make your first pass disregaurd how it looks or flows just make sure you overlap 50% on the next passess and go with it, dont try to make it shine, just make your pass ,it'll look like crap ,dont worry, the clear takes care of all that, all your tring to do is get the color even on the car and the metallics even and standing up ....the parts you like the best are the parts that you need to worry about, being too wet ,the metallic has laid down....
spray your repairs first (to get the color even),then start spraying the whole car... what brand of base are you using? some require different techniques...
BTW,your bodywork looks great,and thats the hardest part so this'll be a piece of cake...your vids are great and make things much easier to help you..If you can get a little vid of you while your spraying we can help with your technique ,I believe that to be most of your trouble.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:01 AM
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Deadbodyman, go back to that video, and if it takes you to youtube you'll see more links on the right of him actually spraying.
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:28 PM
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10-4
the first thing I noticed right off is your going way to slow with the gun,you need to go about twice as fast and stop looking at the texture,thats what is messing you up most..
However,the speed your going is just right for laying on your clear or SS paints....
If you used a SS solid color I'd bet it would be perfect...BC/CC is tough to start off with but your getting there...

second thing ,is as you go down the fender you point the gun towards the floor ,hold it at 90 degrees to the surface at all times, what is happening is the top of your pattern is a lot heavier than the bottom I see guys doing the same thing on hoods and roofs and getting streaks (zebra stripes)...90 degrees at all times....This combined with over reduced base is a sure guarantee for runs or at the very least metallic slides.....
So,what brand of base are you using???
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:50 PM
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jesus dude! way too wet and reduced. try keeping your hand the same distance away, waterbase is very thin to apply, first coat should be see through and therfore it should take 3/4 coats to cover. first coat should be a control/drop coat 0.5 bar following coats should be full coats 2.0-2.5 bar.
base all edges first ( i see a pillar has no paint on after two coats). hope some of this helps....
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:08 PM
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If thats a water base you should ignore everything I said ,I've never used it and the same rules dont apply (I dont think)
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Old 05-15-2011, 03:54 PM
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I doubt it's waterbase. And I've never seen a waterbase that is "thin" compared to solvent.

Keep in mind, red is incredibly transparent. So, dont think you are putting it on to thin if you can still see through it after a couple of coats. I've had to put 6 + coats to get proper hiding with red's before.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:09 PM
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I am using Prospray. I may have misunderstood what the guy at SPI was saying. He told me that sometimes you can slightly over reduce if you are having troubles adjusting the gun. If it was just done for diagnostic purposes only, we didn't discuss that.
Watching the paint lay down could very well be a problem for me. I am overly concerned that the paint will orange peel or be course from being too thin. I am expecting the paint to look like float glass after every coat. I've never done it before so I don't have a frame of reference what the coats should look like.

Another question. Do you wet sand the base coat at all before clear coating?
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:15 PM
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The color I am spraying is "Panther Pink", the mopar color from 1970. It's solid so no metallics to worry about. I don't think the color is coming through in the video very well.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:34 PM
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I just watched your video of you painting the right front fender. You went up and over the wheel well 3 times in the same area. Then you dropped down onto the area behind the wheelwell and barely had any overlap at all.
You need to concentrate on getting equal overlap and number of passes to get a consistant coverage.

It will help with runs , you won't have 3 times the material in one area as another.
I don't go up and over a wheel opening, I travel straight across it.

I spray the lip of the wheel well with the gun aimed at the lip and do follow its up and over contour , but onlyu to get material on the lip.

Back in the day I was learning to shoot Candy Apple lime gold and found that long straight passes keeping an equal distance from the body contours, but staying on a horizontal plane helped with having even coverage.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:42 PM
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Nice video and I will say you are doing fine on laying the basecoat.

You are using a top notch base so you can wet sand it and since the sides are not covering good, if me I would probably just spray a couple more coats on the sides and hold the gun like we talked, six inches away and fan as wide as you can get it where the center is not blowing out.

Then while you are waiting for more paint, you can do what wet sanding you need so smooth the runs and trash out, getting ready for what we hope one last coat.
Also when you get to the sides, it looks like you need about 3-5 more pounds of air pressure, that will take care of the runs with a 50-70% overlap.

Forget the filter work, that dirt came from end of hose, car crease but most likely the masking paper build up.
Put a fresh piece of paper over the dirty masking paper, you will also do this before you clear.
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