As long as the base paint is good, there is no need to strip to bare metal. Usually just repair any rust or minor damage areas and remove all traces of original glue.
It has been over thirty years since I worked in the Trim business. So the techniques may have changed. But, way back when we used sprayable contact cement. NASTY, green-yellow stuff that once you pressed the top down to the metal it was stuck forever!
We would mark off the roof down the center. Mask the edges. Mark the underside center of the top. Then spray both the top and the roof with contact cement. After the cement is dry to the touch on both surfaces we would place glossy butcher paper or wide masking paper (won't stick to contact cement) on 1/2 the roof. Opposite the side we were going to apply first. Fold the top down the center glue side out and lay it on the masked side of the roof. Then line up the center lines and CAREFULLY roll and stretch the two exposed cemented roof/vinyl surfaces together. Then with the first side done. Pull the loose vinyl half back onto the installed side . Remove the paper mask from the roof and repeat the previous process. working from the center out. This works good if you have minimal or no help. If you can get four guys together. Have one on each corner and carefully line up the centers. Then carefully lay the glued vinyl to the glued top. working air bubbles out from the center to the edges. Stretching constantly. Lots of Sweating as it has to be WARM when you are working supported vinyl.
You should be able to get cements from a well stocked supplier and I suppose by now there are different adhesives to make the job a bit easier.
Last edited by BOBCRMAN@aol.com; 06-16-2004 at 05:47 PM.