ok i have a 1967 mustang and currently its yellow with a black vinyl top and i plan on painting it black ...and i was wondering if is it possible to tear the vinyl top off and how much work would it take
Me and my buddy used Aircraft Stripper to get his vinyl off. It IS a bit difficult and you should expect rust under it.
You will need to pull the windshield and rear glass on this model if I remember correctly, the glass gasket goes over the top material. You'll also need to deal with removing the trims studs or holes for the sail panel trim that won't be reinstalled. Stripper is a good idea for removing the glue and paint/primer from the roof, just be sure to give it a good water wash after the stripping process is done. Finish up by sanding with a DA and 80 grit then prime with epoxy. Smooth/straighten any irregularities in the quarter to roof seam/ sail panel area then primer and block then paint.
Or just put a new vinyl top on, you know they are cool.
Vettefella, over at Team Chevelle provided me with these directions awhile back. The directions worked well for me but I did use a little more adhesive.
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First, I assume you have an A body and the replacement top you are going
to install is one that is commercially available from sources such as
OPG, GroundUp, Yearone, etc. and is of the "better" quality.
Additionally, when the vinyl tops were installed at the factory, it was
done before the molding clips around the windshield and back glass had
been installed. That is the best way to install replacement tops. Most
upholstery shops won't/can't remove the clips to install replacement
tops and that can cause problems a few years down the road.
Further, when the tops were installed at the factory, they put four
screws into the vinyl. One at the ends of the two seams front and back
at the recess of the windshield and the back glass. It isn't absolutely
necessary to do that on the replacement tops, but is advisable.
Even the best quality vinyl will shrink over time. That's why it is best
to install the replacement with the clips removed and to put screws into
the ends at the seams.
Purchase at least two, preferably three spray cans of 3M Super Duty Trim
adhesive. Do not attempt to use the "General Trim Adhesive". It may only
require two cans, but if you aren't experienced in this procedure, you
don't want to find yourself short of adhesive in the middle of the job.
Lay the new top out on a flat surface, preferrably in the hot sun or at
least in a 75?+ environment. The lower the temp, the longer you must
let it sit so that the packing wrinkles will be completely relaxed.
Depending on the specific application, you may need to do two or four
"seams". You may need to do seams at the "A" pillars and almost
definately at the panel below the rear glass. These seams are best done
after the major portion of the top has been glued down.
If you've never attempted the installation of a vinyl top, you should
get a helper if at all possible.
Once the new vinyl has had a chance to "relax" the packing wrinkles, lay
it over the roof of the car. Measure, double measure, triple measure
exactly where the seams of the new top should go. Mark the roof of the
car with a magic marker or whatever at the exact points where the seams
should be. This will require stretching the vinyl into nearly the exact
position that it will be once it is glued down.
When you have determined the seam points, make sure that the top doesn't
move from that point on. This is where a helper is so important.
You can start from the front or either side to begin the glueing
procedure. I prefer the front but it isn't a big thing. Some people
feel it is easier to keep the seams straight doing it side to side.
Carefully fold the new vinyl back onto itself approximately halfway of
the top. Spray the adhesive moderately on both the vinyl and the roof on
the car. If you haven't already determined exactly where the seams
should be, you'd better do it now, because it's about to be too late to
change your mind.
Wait 3-4 minutes for the glue to begin to set, then fold the new vinyl
into place. Don't wait the full time recommended on the spray can,
otherwise you will have absolutely no latitude for error correction. Be
absolutely sure that the seams are in exactly the positions you've
marked, otherwise, they will be crooked/wavy after it's all over.
At this point, don't be overly concerned about fit/glueing at the
gutters or around the w's or rear glass. Those should be done last so as
to make any minute corrections...if that is possible.
Once the first half of the roof has been glued down, do the other half
in the same manner, makng sure that the seams are exactly straight.
When the major portion of the roof is glued into position, prepare to do
any necessary seams at the A pillars and the rear panel below the rear
glass. You probably won't have to do a seam at the A pillar, but if so,
just follow similar instructions as the rear panel.
The strip of vinyl for the panel below the rear glass will come as a
separate piece. Trim the ends of the major roof piece to the approximate
length necessary. The metal body seam is a good point to go by. Lay the
rear panel strip out straight. Spray glue onto at least the first/last
inch of the major roof piece and the rear panel strip. Fold about 1/2"
on the major roof piece into about 1/2" of the rear panel piece. You
will have an interlocking "double U" type of fit at that point. Make
sure you have sufficient glue in the entire area and press the seamed
portion down firmly until it sets.
Glue the rear panel strip down to the opposite side. This is where it
gets tedious. You must make a seam just like the one on the other side
and when it is glued down, it must be flat wthout wrinkles. It requires
some "fooling around" before the glue has time to set. Don't worry about
getting glue on the outside of the vinyl. It can be easily removed when
you are finished with lacquer thinner or other solvents/adhesive
Once you've glued down the major portions of the top including the A
pillars and the rear panel, it's time to make sure the gutters and
around the windshield and rear glass are properly in place. For the
front and rear glass, simply pull the vinyl tight(it should already be
properly aligned side to side and front to rear), spray glue on the edge
of the vinyl and into the recess where the glass sits. Trim the vinyl so
that it will go to the bottom of the recess. Press the vinyl into the
recess. When you have it pressed down, cut small slots for the trim clip
studs to peek through the vinyl. If you are completely replacing the
studs, simply glue the vinyl down the smoothest you can, then install
the replacement studs or screws with clips, whichever you are using.
At the gutters, you should have already removed the chrome trim(if any)
on the gutters.
????Spray glue liberally on the vinyl and into the gutter. Make
sure the vinyl is glued firmly into the gutter before attempting to
re-install the chrome trim on the gutter. The vinyl should extend under
the gutter molding about an 1/8th inch or less.
At the sail panels and along the rear deck panel where the molding goes,
make sure that it is liberally glued along the edges and preferrable
fitted over the molding clip studs. The fit is very critical at these
points. Remember that vinyl shrinks with age. If you cut it short, it
will pull away from under the molding in a few months/years.
Golly, I'm as tired as if I had actually installed a vinyl roof. Did I
skip anything? If so, feel free to ask questions.
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