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Old 10-13-2013, 03:44 PM
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voodoo cam vrs. comp cams

H guys I have a 1965 nova with 3.73 gears 350 turbo trany, 2000rpm stall the motor is a 350 with rhs 67 cc pro torquer heads, with about 9.6-1 compresion. it is a weekend show car and fri nightr street class drag. I am trying to pick a better cam than the he268 that is in it. I am torn between the xe268 or the voodoo 262 i have herd that the voodoo out perform the xe series and i want the best upgrade. any help would be great thanks

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Old 10-13-2013, 04:21 PM
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You will gain more from changing the torque converter, than changing the camshaft.

Change the stock 2000 stall to a 10" 3500+ stall converter. And get some sticky tires.
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:26 PM
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The voodoo series is a little better but I agree your converter is where you'll see the biggest difference. The exhaust, intake, tune,etc all probably need attention before your cam does.
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:47 PM
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This will open the door to allow changing the camshaft to a new camshaft that will make a real and meaningfull difference. You are just changing one baby cam for another baby cam.

There is a lot of potential in improving those as cast cylinder heads.
I'd yank them off and fully hand port them and shave the hell out of them
and reinstall with a thin head gasket too.
They are a diamond in the rough.

Small changes ='s small result.
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:52 PM
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I have to agree with F-BIRD about the looser converter.
The motor has the perfect cam in it for the static compression ratio of 9.6:1. The intake valve closes at 35 degrees after bottom dead center, creating a dynamic compression ratio of 8.455:1, perfect for best power on pump gas.

More cam will make the bottom end even soggier and you don't need more cam unless you intend to increase the static compression ratio too. Right now, you have the perfect balance of cam to compression ratio. And in the name of all that is holy, do not install one of those fosdick XE cams in a street motor. You're just asking for trouble. If you were racing in a class where you needed an extra 10 horsepower to drive around your competition, then I'd say yeah, use the XE. But for the street, the increased hydraulic intensity creates a shaky proposition.

Change converters and do some in-depth tuning on the motor. Here is a first step for you, finding top dead center on the damper so you can time the motor with a light and know that what you're seeing is correct.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

Last edited by techinspector1; 10-13-2013 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:56 PM
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agree with all the above posters.I had a 65 Acadian when I was in school,loved the car,but it handled absolutely horrible.(back then we used bias ply tires) The lower control arms need to be reinforced or replaced with a front clip with better suspension and brakes.No reason for that car not to run low 12s. I would love to have another one of those cars and build a snotty 283 for it
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:09 PM
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thanks guy. I thought i should mention that the engine has shim gaskets and a little head work, stealth intake 750 holley, vac sec, headers, 2 1/2 duals, when i purchased the stall i was told it was a 2500 stall, but at the track all i can hold back before the tires cut loose is 2000rpm, i am runinf bfg drag radials at 17psi, and runing 8.6 on the 1/8 with 1.90 60ft time I want to do the voodoo 262 cam but is it going to be an improvement over what i have. I am also not trying to build the fastest car around just bake it the best i can with what i have will mild modes, I realy dont want to change the stall, and was hoping that the voodoo would just make it a little better I have the intake off so I thought it would be a good time to change, do you guys think the voodoo 262 would be a good invesment or waste of time and monie thanks
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
You will gain more from changing the torque converter, than changing the camshaft.

Change the stock 2000 stall to a 10" 3500+ stall converter. And get some sticky tires.
just wondering how streetable is a 10'' 3500 stall and what sort of problems should you expect to encounter with daily street use?
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65novablu View Post
thanks guy. I thought i should mention that the engine has shim gaskets and a little head work, stealth intake 750 holley, vac sec, headers, 2 1/2 duals, when i purchased the stall i was told it was a 2500 stall, but at the track all i can hold back before the tires cut loose is 2000rpm, i am runinf bfg drag radials at 17psi, and runing 8.6 on the 1/8 with 1.90 60ft time I want to do the voodoo 262 cam but is it going to be an improvement over what i have. I am also not trying to build the fastest car around just bake it the best i can with what i have will mild modes, I realy dont want to change the stall, and was hoping that the voodoo would just make it a little better I have the intake off so I thought it would be a good time to change, do you guys think the voodoo 262 would be a good invesment or waste of time and monie thanks
Again, you don't need more cam, you need more converter to get the motor up on the cam that you have now. You can change the converter in an afternoon with the help of a buddy. Don't be swayed by names like Voodoo and Extreme Energy. Those names were originated by marketing experts who depend on fancy sounding names to relieve you of your hard-earned dough. For the last time....keep the cam you have and change the converter.

Last edited by techinspector1; 10-13-2013 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:28 PM
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reread post #4 and #5
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtz55 View Post
just wondering how streetable is a 10'' 3500 stall and what sort of problems should you expect to encounter with daily street use?
The motor only goes to the stall limit of the converter when you have the loud pedal matted against a resisting force. Otherwise, there is little difference between a stock converter and a loose converter when light pedal is applied, as in tooling around town.

But you will need additional cooling for the transmission fluid. Come out of the trans to a front-mounted auxiliary cooler, out of the cooler and into the bottom of the radiator, out of the radiator and back to the transmission. Running through the auxialiary cooler last will likely cool the fluid too much. ATF needs some heat in it to operate properly, so cool it down with the auxiliary cooler, then put the proper heat back into the fluid by passing it through the cooler on the bottom of the radiator.

Do not try to mount the auxialiary cooler anywhere but in the front of the car and in the airstream. Many fellows have cooked their transmissions by mounting a cooler back under the car somewhere with a fan attached. Some have gotten away with it, but many have failed.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtz55 View Post
just wondering how streetable is a 10'' 3500 stall and what sort of problems should you expect to encounter with daily street use?
A 10" 3500+ high stall is perfectly "streetable"

There are no "problems" running this converter on the street.
They do feel looser and have a noticable looser hyd coupling at low speed and small throttle inputs.

This is not a "problem". But they do feel different. Takes about a week or two of driving to get used to the difference in low speed Hyd coupling.

Drag radial tire pressure for when racing should be 14PSI.

Get some traction bars. Do not buy less than a 3500+ rated stall.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:41 PM
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If you only want to see a small change. just move the camshaft you got.
EG:
Retard to true straight up ='s more top end horsepower.

Advance it further to say a 102 intake C/L ='s more torque at launch.

I see a easy 4/10th to 1/2 sec improvment in a new real deal 3500+ stall 10" converter,
proper tire pressure (14psi) and traction bars.
Using the camshaft you got.

Converter stall speed is not determined by staling up against the brakes.
as all you do is overpower the car's brakes.

Get the drag tires good and hot and 14PSI and then launch the car from idle rpm (DO NOT STALL UP ON THE BRAKES) and watch the tach jump on launch.
That is your true stall speed.

Recurving the distributor for 24-26deg base at idle and 36 @ max advacne will help the launch.
Open headers + 12" to 20" exhaut collector extensions will help the launch.

The launch is the problem. Not the camshaft.
What is the MPH?
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
If you only want to see a small change. just move the camshaft you got.
EG:
Retard to true straight up ='s more top end horsepower.

Advance it further to say a 102 intake C/L ='s more torque at launch.

I see a easy 4/10th to 1/2 sec improvment in a new real deal 3500+ stall 10" converter,
proper tire pressure (14psi) and traction bars.
Using the camshaft you got.
I agree 100%.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:50 PM
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when i purchased the stall i was told it was a 2500 stall,

This is why so many people end up buying two converters.
1. They pick a stall speed that is way too low for the cars purpose.
2. They believe the sellers BS. A 12" "2500stall" converter is just a stock 2000-2100 stall that has had the fins bent over a bit more the increase slip and stall a bit.

3. They somehow think that a real high stall that has a real stall speed , that will get it done
will somehow not drive on the street.

I recommend you buy a B&M 10" hole shot 3600 PN 20425.
They never disappoint. it is JUST RIGHT.

Wheels up 1.60 sec 60ft .4 to .5 sec ET reduction. If not more.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 10-13-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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