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Old 11-24-2009, 01:39 PM
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Vortec Head Porting

I'm gonna port some '062' vortec heads i got kicking around. The first thing I'm gonna do is port match the intake runners then bowl blend and focus on the short side radius of the exhaust runner. I found some intake gaskets from summit. They are SCE Gaskets 111124 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SC...4/?image=large The port height and width is 2.180" x 1.350". Is this too big? I've never used SCE either any opinions? Thanks very much everyone in advance!

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Old 11-24-2009, 01:52 PM
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For the Vortec heads there's not much merit in "port matching" the entrance to the port is not the restriction, the pushrod pinch is, and the short side and the bowl need the most work. Enlarge the area around the pushrod, smooth out the short side, and clean up the bowl.

If you don't believe me take a mold of the port, cut it and compare cross sectional areas all the way down. the entrance is find for most applications, a standard gasket will be fine.
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Old 11-24-2009, 02:10 PM
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Those gaskets won't do you much good as they are only for the extremely raised runner/high port 14 Pro Action head that might get used on a Sprint car or a very high output(950hp) Competition Eliminator engine.. There isn't a single bolt hole or port outline that will match up to any 23 stock type head, including the Vortecs you have. When looking in Summits web site, always check everything in all the pages, a look at the applications page for these gaskets shows what heads these fit. I take it you looked just by engine size and year??

With that out of the way, just hogging the port opening to a gianormous size is a good way to ruin the flow of a pretty good head, as the port opening isn't the major restriction of the port, the choke point is farther in. The port can't really be any wider than the pushrod pinch point, so grinding the opening bigger is just a waste of time. If you still feel you need to port match them, and you aren't going to do a full port overhaul with larger valves, then Fel-pro part # 1255 1.08" x 2.16" is the correct size. I couldn't find a SCE for your application at Summits site.
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Old 11-26-2009, 08:22 AM
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thanks for the replies guys. I knew there was something wrong witht those gaskets but never looked into it any further. Can anyone chime in with some pics of vortec port jobs they have done and maybe some suggestion on different tools. All i have right now is a dremel 300 with an 1/8" chuck and some cartridge rolls. Works ok but i know there is better out there.
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Old 11-26-2009, 08:49 AM
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I used to have some street ports to show but they have long since disappeared.

at any rate listen to these guys about the port matching. even the stock size gaskets are huge in relation to the ports, and if you use them to port match it is not going to be correct b/c the pushrod pinch is so close to the entrance and so narrow compared to the gaskets, it will hurt more than help.

your biggest and easiest gains are going to be in the bowl areas on the intake and exhaust, narrow the guides, raise the roof on the exhaust as much as a stock gasket will allow, the port floors on the exhaust are pretty thin so be careful there. also widen the port around the guide just a bit.

here is an approx of what you're shooting for:






PS- signatures have been removed from this forum for no good reason. Mine says...."Let the wind be your guide"
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
thanks for the replies guys. I knew there was something wrong witht those gaskets but never looked into it any further. Can anyone chime in with some pics of vortec port jobs they have done and maybe some suggestion on different tools. All i have right now is a dremel 300 with an 1/8" chuck and some cartridge rolls. Works ok but i know there is better out there.

throw away the dremel and get a 1/4 electric grinder from harbor freight, its the best $30 you can spend at this point. Then get a rheostat, another $10 or so. Then get some carbide bits, I recomend a 2 1/4" long double cut 3/8" tree and a 4" long 3/8" double cut bull nose barrel. Then get a handful of tapered 3/8" 60 grit (possibley 80 if you want a slightly finer finish) cartridge rolls from 3M (only use these as they work the best, by a LONG shot, and I've tried them all). You'll also need a 4" mandrel for these. A few stones with 4" shanks helps too, but are not necessary.

If you can't do a decent port job with these supplies you can't do a decent port job.
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Old 11-27-2009, 05:13 PM
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vortec heads

I wouldn't touch the ports I had a set of these heads on my boat motor and all I had done to them was have them machined for 2.02 and 1.6 valves ,the bowles opend up and guide work so I could run a bigger cam. These heads worked great on my 355 boat motor. here is a picture of the boat I have.
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
throw away the dremel and get a 1/4 electric grinder from harbor freight, its the best $30 you can spend at this point. Then get a rheostat, another $10 or so. Then get some carbide bits, I recomend a 2 1/4" long double cut 3/8" tree and a 4" long 3/8" double cut bull nose barrel. Then get a handful of tapered 3/8" 60 grit (possibley 80 if you want a slightly finer finish) cartridge rolls from 3M (only use these as they work the best, by a LONG shot, and I've tried them all). You'll also need a 4" mandrel for these. A few stones with 4" shanks helps too, but are not necessary.

If you can't do a decent port job with these supplies you can't do a decent port job.

like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44141

I built a rheostat last semester in one of my labs! i knew it would come in handy someday

What is a good website to buy carbide bits from?
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218
like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44141

I built a rheostat last semester in one of my labs! i knew it would come in handy someday

What is a good website to buy carbide bits from?
Good selection here>> http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
I like the 6" Carbide bits better. Helps avoid hitting valve seat area with Collet nut on Grinder.
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
Good selection here>> http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
I like the 6" Carbide bits better. Helps avoid hitting valve seat area with Collet nut on Grinder.

the 6" ones are nice untill they bend and "helicopter" on you. If you use them extensively this will happen at come point and the results can range from a seriously gouged hand to something far more serious (think where your face is in relation to the ports). I buy the 6" ones and then cut them down to about 4" or so, they're not quite as easy to use but they are far more stable and safer. I've had a 8" cartridge mandrel and a 6" carbide bit both helicopter on me, so it does happen. lower speeds are one remedy for this, but then you don't get as clean as a cut. lubricating can help this to some extent but nothing works as good as simply shortening the shank to about 4".

you can buy the bits from almost anywhere, and yes the chinese ones are a little cheaper and alittle poorer in quality, they would probably suffice for one set though. 3M rolls are above and beyond any others, I cannot stress that enough. Cylinder HEad Porting Supplies carries long grinding stone that I like, the rest of the stuff you can get through a big industrial supplier like Grainger. Google can find you a lot...
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:01 PM
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I actually prefer a drill a lot of the time, it takes a lot longer but I have so much better control that I don't mind the extra time it takes. Of course when there is a lot of material that needs removed i step up to something faster.

So if you already have a variable speed drill and this is your first set of heads, I'd highly recommend using it. You will have better control, and you won't take too much material away too fast and be upset b/c you botched a good set of heads...
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Old 11-29-2009, 08:58 AM
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Don't forget safety glasses and a dust mask!
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