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Old 08-02-2013, 07:50 AM
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VR1 Race Oil for flat tappet cam?

Hi all,
I have a flat tappet cam and would like to know if Valvoline/VR1 Racing engine oil SAE 20W-50 would be OK to use. The cam is well past break-in, I just need to do an oil change and want to know if this will work as I can get it locally. I see available online only a version that says "not street legal" so I am wondering if the version on the shelf that does not say this is good enough.

Valvoline/VR1 Racing engine oil SAE 20W-50 1 qt. (822347) | Engine Oil | AutoZone.com


Should I also use some type of addative or break-in lube with every change? If so, which one and how much? I would prefer something that can be purchased from O'Reilley's, Auto Zone or Advance Auto.

Thanks

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Old 08-02-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6T6GTO View Post
Hi all,
I have a flat tappet cam and would like to know if Valvoline/VR1 Racing engine oil SAE 20W-50 would be OK to use. The cam is well past break-in, I just need to do an oil change and want to know if this will work as I can get it locally. I see available online only a version that says "not street legal" so I am wondering if the version on the shelf that does not say this is good enough.

Valvoline/VR1 Racing engine oil SAE 20W-50 1 qt. (822347) | Engine Oil | AutoZone.com


Should I also use some type of addative or break-in lube with every change? If so, which one and how much? I would prefer something that can be purchased from O'Reilley's, Auto Zone or Advance Auto.

Thanks
It's not street legal because it's full of the good stuff like ZDDP and lower amounts and different chemistry in the detergents. All that stuff was reduced, removed or modified in current "street legal" oils to protect the catalytic converter not a flat tappet camshaft and lifters, which is why modern engines use roller lifters with modern "street legal" oils.

So yes the VR1 will be good to use in a flat tappet equipped engine, yes if you're using a catalytic converter its life will be shortened.

Bogie
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbogie View Post
lower amounts of detergents.
Which is why you'll have to change it more frequently.

VR1 NSL will give you added protection from wear, but wear protection is only 1 of the functions of oil, cleaning is another and it falls way short in that department, for a race engine with frequent changes this is a non-issue, for a street car its a HUGE issue.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:49 AM
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They don't have "not street legal" version in the store, just the one I linked to.

So is there ANY oil I can walk in and purchase from O'Reilley's, Auto Zone or Advance Auto that will be safe?
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:10 AM
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If you keep the valve spring pressure conservative with less than 90 lb. on the seat and 280 lb. on the nose of the cam, you will be OK using motor oil such as Valvoline Conventional Premium All Season 10W-30.

The last flat tappet hydraulic cam I had in a engine I built in 1998 was driven more thanb 30,000 miles with valve springs that had 110 lb. on the seat and 300 lb on the nose and I had no problems. I sold that car in 2004 and I don't think Valvoline 10W-30 has changed that much since then. Valvoline VR1 can't hurt but as said before, you would have to change it more often due to less dispersants and detergent additives. VR1 is kinda like the old "non-detergent" oil we used for break-on oil.

Last edited by MouseFink; 08-02-2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:30 AM
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I believe I am 115/336 lbs
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:44 AM
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I asked this question to the guys at O'reilly's. They recommended I use Royal Purple. I've never heard anything but good things about this oil.

If you check out the link it says you should use their break in oil on a new engine and then use their regular oil (which I believe is all synthetic) after the break in period.

Royal Purple Break-in Oil - Royal Purple

I found that Royal Purples HPS oils have a zinc additive.

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/produ...!hps-motor-oil
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Old 08-02-2013, 12:09 PM
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I believe I am 115/336 lbs
An engine using a flat tappet camshaft and valve springs with more than 125lb. seat pressure and more than 325 lb. open pressure should use racing oil to reduce camshaft wear and leaded racing gasoilne to prevent exhaust valve seat erosion. Hardened valve seats can be a substitute for leaded gasoline. Racing oil and filter should be changed every 500 miles.
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Old 08-02-2013, 12:50 PM
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The PO said he used Castrol 20w-50 which I really don't belive. That is why I'm looking for something different. I don't want to put that back in.
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:12 PM
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I wouldn't use the racing oil because of the lack of detergents. I definitely wouldn't use 20W50 unless you purposely left the bearing clearances loose (.003). That is just a old school thought that isn't relevant in most applications. There is more to it than ZDDP but if I were you I'd run Rotella T6 5w40, 1200ppm zddp. The general consensus on BobIsTheOilGuy.com is that 1000ppm of zinc meets the needs a flat tappet cammed engine. Also, any diesel engine oil will meet your needs and cheaply. check out BobIsTheOilGuy.com it's a fantastic website dedicated to motor oil, I've been a member for years. If spending more money would make you feel better AMSoil Z-ROD has high zddp. You have a lot of options avalible that would be more suitable than VR-1 racing.

Last edited by Ghetto Jet; 08-02-2013 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6T6GTO View Post
I believe I am 115/336 lbs
how many miles you put on this engine.. these vr1 will go 2500 miles between oil changes, add a spray bomb cap full of marvals myst oil.a day before you change it, and you'll have no problems,,
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:59 PM
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I have a Ski Nautique with a 351 fuel injection engine. The recommended oil is 40W, and I use Valvoline VR-1 40W.
Recommended oil change interval is every 50 hours. Drive a car 50 hours at 60 MPH, you get 3000 miles.

When I change the oil, I suck the oil out when hot, and then let it drain overnight. I have pushed the oil change interval a little longer than 50 hours, based on the oil "looking good".

The oil starts out looking light golden yellow. As the hours build up, it changes to yellow brown, to brown, to black, if gone too long before an oil change.

The oil also gets changed when I lay the boat up for the winter.
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:18 PM
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I've between 400-500 miles on the car. I've been using VR1 to top it off but now I want to do a full change.

I assume add the mystery oil, then run it for a little, then wait until the next day to change?

What do you guys do over the winter? Simply draining the oil will prevent corrosion?
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:31 PM
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I run 20w 5050 VR1 in my truck and strait 50w in my blown 388 but I change the oil prematurely but irs better safe then sorry in my book
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:35 PM
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the whole flushing your engine before an oil change is b.s, sure way to mess up your bearings in my opinion

I just use 10w-30 vr1 conventional, add a little of the break in additive like 1 oz, and change my old every 2000 miles

the not street legal stuff will have to be changed at like 500 miles or so because of the lack of detergents

If my cam ever goes i'm just going straight to a roller cam, too much trouble to deal with this flat tappet b.s
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