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Old 06-18-2005, 12:14 AM
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Wacky Power Windows

Ok, i have been having this intermittent problem with my power windows for over a year now, and I just can't figure it out.

It is a 1987 Monte Carlo SS and i have changed the switches and the motors a few times but to no avail.

There are a few things it does, and its primarily with the passenger side.

1 - Works fine

2 - I will go to put the windows down. I put mine down fine, then I try to put the passenger side down and nothing. If I simply reach over and tap the switch on the passenger door, it will start to go down, then both switches work fine, even the driver side again.

3 - The passenger side won't work, unlike above, tapping the passenger door switch will do nothing, I actually have to hold down both switches at the same time...yes thats right, the one on my door and the passenger door

I don't know what can cause this, bad ground? motor overheating? bad connection? short?

It's weird cause these two problems are all I get, and both are solved the same way each time.


Also, another idea...would hooking up a relay to each power window help out?

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Old 06-18-2005, 06:58 PM
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Windows...

Doc here..

Well, I totally confused..

When you say "Tap" on the switch, do you mean "Thump" it? or Activate that direction? (I.E. Both switches must be in down, or up to work?)

I'm Not sure and you'd have to refer to your schematic, But I think an 87 had a master control relay for the windows...If it does, I'd find that and repair or replace it..Do you hear a "Click" when you activate any of the windows, that Isn't the motor? that's a good clue..

In either Case, It sounds like the wire that provides power to the common center wiper terminal of the switches is intermittent or a set of door contacts are bad...

When you say "Replaced all the switches, did that include all the location switches as well as the console or Master panel switches?

If not, I'd pull the door panels and inspect the door switch contacts, and the plugs as well as clean them both up real good!

Make sure your door grounds are good, remove them burnish off the paint, and reinstall with a star washer..Then measure the resistance to the rest of the body, It should be 000 or very close to it...If you get high or intermittent readings, install a braided ground strap from the door to the door post.

Thats about all I can think of for now...I'll check the books...

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Old 06-20-2005, 11:45 AM
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now the damn thing will only work if i hold down both switches....ARGGGG
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Old 06-20-2005, 06:22 PM
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Windows

Doc here,

Here is the EXACT schematic for your windows....

ALSO did you put the right switches back in ? F Body Switches were unlike any others prior or after....Check the PN to be sure cuz the internal jumpering may be wrong...



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Old 06-21-2005, 07:35 AM
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actually this is the one for my car...



I reran all the wiring yesterday, and i believe i got it down to a bad window motor.

Last edited by airman_turtle; 06-21-2005 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 06-21-2005, 12:09 PM
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damnit, i got a new motor for the passenger side and it still doesnt work ARGGGGGGG


it there a way to test the switches...like what prongs should i get voltage across and such?

Last edited by airman_turtle; 06-21-2005 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 06-21-2005, 08:08 PM
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switches

Doc here,

Yup, just orient the switch as it would sit in the door/console..

Get an ohm meter, set it for R x 1 Scale, the center terminals are C/W (or center wipers), Push the switch forward, (assuming this is up..) and the LOWER 2 terminals should have continuity to the center wipers...Remember, the paddle is a lever, so if you push it up, it makes contact with the two LOWER terminals, If you push it down, It makes contact with the upper terminals..

The reverse Should hold true on the down side from center wipers.

Be sure you have the harness unplugged as some provide jumpers to reverse the motor right at the switch plug..in an X pattern (lower left to upper right, lower right to upper left..)

BTW..for future..you could have just unplugged the one window and tested the other It should have operated fine if the harness was right..

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Old 06-22-2005, 12:09 PM
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What about the contacts at the motors? My '82 El Camino passenger window occassionally stops working, and it has been the connection both times I have troubleshot it. I have noticed that sometimes the passenger switch doesn't always work but that is why they came with one on both doors.
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Old 06-22-2005, 12:13 PM
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fixed it...it was the passenger side switch...thanks for the help
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Old 06-22-2005, 06:00 PM
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The Fix

Doc here,

Thanks for posting back on the fix...will be helpful in future!

What set of terminals / Wires , Did it turn out to be for my Curiosity file...

Doc
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:00 PM
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the passenger side switch, if i squeezed the switch it worked, if i let go it stopped
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Old 08-16-2006, 01:53 PM
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confounded switches

Ok i know that my rig.. er the wifes rig in question isnt a hotrod but I just had to post a problem and solution we had with the power windows. She drives a '92 custom chevy Van and the driver side window switch fell apart. plastic pieces broke or something. so I bought a new switch at Black Ridge custom car accessories and put it in. I tested it and then plugged it into the socket. Then a few days later the wife said it was working intermittently. When I went and checked it sure enough sometimes the passenger side window would stutter and stop... To make a long story short it turns out that the people that did the customizing for the Chevy dealer had cut the metal out of the door a little too high. so when the switch was plugged into the wooden mounting pod, the center pole coming out the back of the switch was grounding out on the edge of the metal cut out. I ground a relief in the metal and now it works just fine. I could have cut the center pole on the switch shorter but if it had tobe replaced again I or someone else wouldhave had the same problem.
Now does anyone know why that contact pole is so long in the first place?
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Old 08-16-2006, 07:18 PM
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Doc here,

I believe, If we are talking about the same terminal, It's for Socket orientation, so you don't install it bass ~ Ackwards.. Down is up and so forth..

Next time you can slide a few lengths of heat shrink tube over it, that should insulate it from grounding.

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