Wait err, there's a fly in my paint..
 

Of all colors and places.

PPG DBC under DFX-35

After careful body work and masking to blend at bodylines in order to duplicate the original non matching panel to panel factory flaw appearance a crazed tiny black fly has to crash land into the one place where he;ll show the most...

ready? :welcome:

ahhhh the sacrifices of some forms of life to leave a reminder of their past.

That's a bit@h. For what ever reason, they like fresh paint and have to do a death spiral. I redid a fender where a bug walked across and have a tiny one still embedded in a corner of the grille splash shield clear that only I and (every other member here) know about.

Are you going to repaint or let it stay?

Not as bad as a moth that lands on the side of a freshly painted door. And that was in Acrylic Enamel :drunk: They can walk quite a ways before they croak :pain:

His carcass is gonna stay, the silver cord has parted and his soul is headed up for judgment. Meanwhile not to disappoint the home town fans or the new guys who will come across this situation sooner or later there is a dilemma of time/patience and reactions to fresh (kill) clear..

I'm still learning to make things that bug me my friend, hence grabbed the camera and thought to turn the fix into a project thread..

As in the beginning the blend of clear went over the body line from the damage and stropped at the next body line where you see the tape..

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35269

The fix will be simalar

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35270
Say hello to our little friend from 3M :cool:

With hopes that the fly would sand out to no avail the area has been flat sanded with 1000 grit and is ready for masking.


Using "American Brand" 3/4 inch masking tape set back from the crown lines leaving just enough room for the soft edge foam tape..
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35285

Knowing there will be a reaction from the disturbed clear getting more base color added it is only reduced 1 to 1 and "dusted" on with higher air pressure to get it through the gun and anticipated extended time between coats.

The lowwer foam tape is removed to get a gental sanding in there to flaten the wrinkels. then replaced so no sand dust gets hung up in the foam tape and then more base is teased on with 45 minutes to an hour between light layers of base.

A look at the white on the paper shows progress.

The foam tape allows the air to swirl and bounce around preventing a "hard' tape line edge.

The second pic has been adjusted to show the expected reaction where there was sanding into the clear where the fly was.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35294

Flow the air and then barely tap in the trigger...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35297

foam tape......
 

HI,that foam tape looks trick. is it easy to use?easy to pull off? hi tack or low tack? back when i was painting boats and airplanes,i used to use the 3m blue tape ,2 inch wide. but i would only press down about 1/2 inch,and let the other 1- 1/2 inch stand up .it sorta worked (as far as no tape line) but that foam tape looks good. where do you buy it? and whats the cost?

The foam tape is awesome...up here its about 65 bucks per box. Its low tack, Ive never had it leave marks or residue, and it works pretty slick!


Love seeing peoples apporaches. Being able to do it is one thing, but being able to fix it is another beast of its own, eh?

It's product name is Door Appeture Foam Tape from 3m..
It is mostly used for masking door jambs, around the trunk,gas door , and hood etc..

It comes in a couple sizes and is coated with a adhesive for just a quarter of it's circumference so the curve works to soften how material hits. I marked the adhesive part so it woud show in the pic.
I've found the 1/2 inch to be the best of the sizes to do jambs as well as blends and other tricks/saves.
It can be reused a couple times so save the used stuff in a separate box.

It is great for masking when spot priming so you don't get that hard edge on primer..

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35310

You can see it used for primer by the plastic , as well as in this wheel fix from a tire machine accident..

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35315

It needs to have a bodyline to work the best, :welcome:

The tire is still on the rim but unbeaded...only the first 1/4 inch got paint and clear...


http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35316


:thumbup:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35320

When the base color is settled down it's ready to clear as usual meaning slam the clear on there as if the foam tape wasn't an issue. The force of the air is needed pound the clear into the corner of the foam...tough to put into words so I brought pics.

*** 8 inches ,regular pressure, 4 fast passes =2 coats-->( 15 min between coats)

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35322

Then to pull the masking after 20 minutes let set...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35323



We do owe thanks to the fly who gave his life so this thread might happen..

The seagull was from a trip to the beach while the clear dried :thumbup:

Here's this week's projects masked for primer success with second generation (used) foam tape as well as the old style with paper flipped over it'self in an effort to not have hard tape edges in the primer...

hmmm,, nice,.. there is a body line in the middle of that bumper and the damage is all on the bottom half :thumbup:



You don't want primer overspray if your gonna be blending..

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35407



http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=35406

A system where multiple projects get primed at the same time gets the most from the materials..

That's really cool! Thanks for the thread, Milo!

Your very welcome... here's another read on blends


http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=3832


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