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Walking foot needle feed questions

25K views 45 replies 3 participants last post by  DanTwoLakes 
#1 ·
I've been reading this forum all evening, so far I have been unsuccessful in finding the answers I'm looking for. I have yet to buy a machine as I'm not quite done researching yet.
I plan on doing a cockpit cover for my boat and a couple hot rod interiors. The boat cockpit cover will be a canvas and the hot rod will be leather if I have it my way. Do I need a walking foot needle feed, or will a walking foot machine be sufficient? Secondly, can the needle feed be turned off/deactivated when not needed? Thirdly, if the needle feed is not able to be deactivated, would a machine with it be ok for doing general boat and auto upholstery work, or would it be more difficult?
Sorry for my rambling on. So many questions and thoughts as I type.

Keith
 
#2 · (Edited)
What you are looking for is an industrial compound feed machine with alternating presser feet, and hopefully reverse. Reverse is not necessary, but sure is nice to have. Compound feed means there is more than one feeding system, and they are usually needle feed and drop feed. Needle feed means the needle pulls the work through the machine, and drop feed incorporates feed dogs to push the work through the machine.

Alternating presser feet means the foot you have on the machine is in two parts on two separate shafts. One part of the foot holds the work down until the other part of the foot is ready to index the work, and then they trade positions, one up and the other down. The part of the foot that is indexing is called a vibrating presser foot, commonly referred to as a walking foot.

No, you can't deactivate the needle feed, and you wouldn't want to. The needle feed in conjunction with the drop feed simply means the machine can handle thicker work which will go through the machine easier. This type of machine will handle anything you want to do and more, and is one of the reasons why it is referred to as an industrial sewing machine.

Read this thread:CLICK HERE If you have more questions, just ask.
 
#3 ·
Dan, thanks for the advice. I had already read the thread you had linked. So much info to absorb. There are a couple machines locally around here on CL. The one I was interested in is a Consew 226 walking foot needle feed machine. It has a clutch, no servo, darn. Oh well, I could learn on it making a new boat cover. Maybe then I could loosen up the purse strings and buy a servo motor.

Keith
 
#6 ·
If it comes with a motor and a table jump on it, that's an excellent price. Have a pro go over it before you use it to time it and check for any worn parts. It'll be the best $100 you ever spent.
 
#7 ·
I talked to the gentleman today. He says it comes with just the sewing machine, motor and table. It's a small bobbin machine also. Said it was in excellent condition. He too is a hot rodder who does it all. He upgraded to a more better Consew machine. He also mentioned he has this one very well tuned. OK? I am gonna check it out tomorrow.

Keith
 
#8 ·
Go for it, the small bobbin is not a problem unless you're sewing things like a big boat cover, and then it's a pain to have to change bobbins so often. The price is excellent.
 
#10 ·
Double needle machines are specialized machines normally only used for one operation. You could use it with a single needle to do flat sewing, but there wouldn't be any welt feet or any other special feet for a double needle machine. You could have the needle bar changed to make it a single needle machine.
 
#11 ·
Any machine recommendations?

Dan,

If you could buy just one machine right now to do upholstery work- what would it be (up to $2k)? I'd like to do seats and door panels in cars (and perhaps even a few small planes)- I might even want to do some light carpet binding

I'm familiar with Juki, Pfaff, and Consew- but not enough to judge whether the Juki and Pfaff models are worth the premium. How easy is it to get parts and service for the various models?

I don't mean to hijack the thread- it just seems like a related question :)

Thanks,
-Don
 
#12 ·
In Car terms: Having used all of these at one time or another, Singer, Consew, most others are Chevrolets. Juki is an Oldsmobile (if they still made the Oldsmobile) Pfaff is a Cadillac. Adler is a Maserati. I think the best value is the Juki. The problem with Pfaff is that parts are very expensive. Adler is the best built machine there is (in my opinion), but they are very pricey. Hope this helps.
 
#13 ·
DanTwoLakes said:
I think the best value is the Juki. The problem with Pfaff is that parts are very expensive. Adler is the best built machine there is (in my opinion), but they are very pricey.
I was actually looking at Juki. They seem to be a pretty common machine with good parts availability. I see them in a lot of the upholstery shops here in NYC for what that's worth.

Is there a particular Juki model that stands out as a good value (you mentioned the 563 in another thread)? Money isn't as important as having a machine I won't have to fight with. I'd rather buy a good machine once (and that has a resale value) than several mediocre machines.

I am planning to add a servo motor if the machine I purchase doesn't have one already.

Hope this helps.
Your opinions and knowledge have been _incredibly_ helpful. You've given me good ideas for just about every project I want to undertake and all I can say is "thank you" as wholeheartedly as possible.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I really am not familiar with the Juki model numbers, but I looked up the Juki machines, and the DDL-8700L seems to be a good basic lockstitch, compound feed, walking foot, with reverse. There are no bells and whistles other than automatic oiling, but you don't really need any. If you get a servo, get a good one, like the Reliable Sew-Quiet 4000, or 5000.
 
#15 ·
DanTwoLakes said:
I really am not familiar with the Juki model numbers, but I looked up the Juki machines, and the DDL-8700L seems to be a good basic lockstitch, compound feed, walking foot, with reverse. There are no bells and whistles other than automatic oiling, but you don't really need any.
Thanks, the 8700l and the 1181n seem like the best options for me. The 1181 has a lower feed in addition to the walking foot but I'm not sure how important that would be.

If you get a servo, get a good one, like the Reliable Sew-Quiet 4000, or 5000.
I saw your other posts recommending these motors and they were what I was going to go with. Is there any difference between the 4000 and 5000 besides the LED display on the 5000?

I'm going to see if I can find a Juki locally that I can try. I'm also going to see if I can find a Consew to try for comparison- any particular model I should look at? I think you recommended the 255-RB3 previously.

Thanks for all of the help,
-Don
 
#19 · (Edited)
The drop feed (bottom feed) on that model is a little more agressive than on the DDL8700L, but not that much different. They are both compound feed machines, drop feed and needle feed together.
 
#21 ·
Dan, I want to practice and play with my new to me machine. Is there a type of thread I should be using or will anything work for playing around? I will probably just practice a little with old jeans just get familiar with the machine. If that's not a good idea, I could go down and see if I could have some scraps from the local upholstery guy, he's just down the street. My neighbor is friends with him so that might be an option.
Can't believe I'm stoked to sew something. Go figure.

Keith
 
#22 ·
You can play around with any thread you want, but use the same size top thread as you do bottom thread. When you are sewing for real, make sure you use at least size 69 bonded nylon or polyester thread with a left twist. Bonded thread is pre-lubricated, and the left twist makes it get picked up by the hook better. Most upholstery thread is left twist. Don't mix nylon and polyester, use the same type and size for top thread and bobbin thread.
 
#23 ·
Thanks about the thread. I had read about the left twist thing.
Got a question on the servo motor. My machine has a Consew variable speed servo motor. This motor has a rheostat on the end of the motor to adjust the speed. So if I mash my foot down on the pedal, it will only run at the rheostat adjusted speed no matted how little or how hard I push on it. Is the motor you use a true variable speed, meaning the farther you push on the foot pedal the faster the machine goes?

Keith
 
#24 ·
All servos are not created equal. A servo motor is a constant torque device that should go faster the more you push on the foot pedal and slower when you let off on the foot pedal. Look and see if there is another switch or setting on the motor that is making it only respond to the rheostat speed.
 
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