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Old 02-20-2010, 10:10 AM
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want a 383 stroker need advice!

Soo i wan't to build a 383 stroker, i don't know too much about them, soo i'm gonna ask you guys to build me one, as in give me the list of everything i will need, from possibly one website, i want to make at least 400hp and i would like to keep the compression down for a turbo or s/c down the road. I would like this engine to be under 5k if possible way under 5k lol. Here is my plan, i dont even have a shell(body) yet soo i want to just start off with just the engine, and i want to peice the motor together part by part bc i dont have alot of money right now. My first step which i haven't done yet is to get a 350 motor, soo right now i'm looking for a cheap 350 motor and i'm gonna tear it all down to the block, then i'm gonna send it off to get it bored .30 over, then get a 383 stroker kit, and that's where i need your help, i need a kit, heads, rockers, etc, I would like to put this motor in a 93+ camaro or firebird or t/a. Right now i am in college soo i am on a budget soo that's why im gonna buy one part at a time. Cept for the 383 kit which comes with multiple parts. I just miss having a sports car, my last toy which was my dd was a '99 pontiac grand prix gtp, i had alot in it, smaller s/c pulley, cai, headers, pcm, full 3inch exhaust, 1.9 rockers, ported tb, etc, that "mom's car" as some would call it, destroyed lightly moded lt1's stock ls1's, countless amount of ricers, fox body stangs no problem, i just absolutly loved my sleeper. I was going to get another one, well i was gonna get a buick regal gs same motor but even more of a sleeper, well anyways its time for a v8 sports car.

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Old 02-20-2010, 12:12 PM
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Hi
Welcome to Hotrodders.com Glad to have you with us.

At the top of the page click on search button then type in 383 build plenty of information there.
Rich
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Old 02-20-2010, 12:19 PM
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Ryan, here are 200 threads with "383 Chevy" in them somewhere. Read through and figure out just exactly what you want. In my opinion, building a low-compression, naturally-aspirated motor now so that you can use a blower or turbo on it later is a bad idea. A correctly built blower motor will be 8.0:1 to 8.5:1 static compression ratio. If you build a naturally-aspirated motor to those specs, it likely won't pull the hat off your head. If you don't want to do a blower now, build your motor to 10.0:1 and build another low-compression blower motor later.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...archid=3327091
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Old 02-20-2010, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Ryan, here are 200 threads with "383 Chevy" in them somewhere. Read through and figure out just exactly what you want. In my opinion, building a low-compression, naturally-aspirated motor now so that you can use a blower or turbo on it later is a bad idea. A correctly built blower motor will be 8.0:1 to 8.5:1 static compression ratio. If you build a naturally-aspirated motor to those specs, it likely won't pull the hat off your head. If you don't want to do a blower now, build your motor to 10.0:1 and build another low-compression blower motor later.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...archid=3327091

X2, you could always build a motor now with an 18-22cc D dished piston and have a set of 64cc heads shaved about .030-.040 to give you between 58-60cc, this should give you in between 10:-10.5:1, then later you would be able to get a set of 72cc heads, this should take you back down to about 9:1, it's possible to use a blower or turbo with this compression ratio.

i still think that you if you know you can't afford the forced induction right now than you should build it with decent compression now, so you dont have a dog, then when you want to go with forced induction unit just tear it down, hone it get new rings and pistons rebalance it and there you go
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:16 AM
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Ok soo i wont build the motor for forced induction right now. Soo i found a motor its actually bored to a 355 soo i dont have to bore it now.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryangtp89
Ok soo i wont build the motor for forced induction right now. Soo i found a motor its actually bored to a 355 soo i dont have to bore it now.
Is it a fresh bore? You might be able to get away with it if it is. If the cylinder is worn it might have to go .040" over. Usually an engine gets bored to the pistons. This is because piston size is different from manufacture to manufacture. Take it to a machine shop and see if they have to take it to .040" and then you will know if it will be a 383 or a 385.
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:19 PM
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what do you mean by fresh bore ? as in was it bored recently? Will boring it .40 over and making it a 385 make it difficult to buy the stroker kit ? or will it still be able to use the 383 stroker kit ?
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryangtp89
what do you mean by fresh bore ? as in was it bored recently? Will boring it .40 over and making it a 385 make it difficult to buy the stroker kit ? or will it still be able to use the 383 stroker kit ?
Yes recently. If the motor was bored .030" over then ran and beat on it might have worn the cylinders to needing to be bored .040". I would grab the .030" block you said you can get a hold of if its a good price.

It won't be able to use the "383" stroker kit if you have to bore it .040". That is because a sbc 383 is a 4.030" bore by 3.750" stroke. You will have to get a rotating kit with .040" pistons.

Look at summit in their rotating kit section. It allows you to go down through and choose piston size, crank stroke, and rod length. But again get a block and take it to the machinist to have checked out. I wouldn't stress over getting a .030" block. Make it a 377 who cares.(std bore with a 3.75" stroke crank)
IMO you don't gain mcuh hp from boring an engine a couple thousandths of an inch. The real reason for boring it is to reshape the bore so its round again.

If I were you I would take your block to a machine shop and see what they say. Also tell them you want to put a 3.75" stroke crank in it that way they know its gonna be a stroker motor.
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:43 PM
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Ok the 355 i am buying from is a guy i go to school with told me it has 2000 miles on it and the guy who he bought it off of blew the clutch and then got a 400 sm block it was all in a daily driver 2500 pickup, thats what he told me, and im getting it for $75 btw, comes with new gaskets too.
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:18 PM
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sounds like a good deal for $75.
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:30 AM
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I just hope it's good soo i dont have to have it bored anymore.
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Old 02-23-2010, 04:28 PM
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either way you always want to take it to a machinest so he can check it out and tell you if anything needs to be done then you would need to buy a set of pistons and take them to him so that the cylinders can be shaped to the pistons.

i run a .040 383=385, it's just as easy to get .040 pistons as it is to get .030 pistons
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Old 02-23-2010, 04:36 PM
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i c, soo the mechinest is my best friend huh, haha my dad is actually a mechinest at a papermill, but i know i wouldnt be able to just bring in a engine block. anyways do they make stroker kits for .40 over ? Idk i just feel more comfortable buying a kit then just buying each single part seperate.
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Old 02-23-2010, 04:46 PM
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you dont want to have you dad be the one to check the block out you need a automotive machinest check it out, he needs to check more than just the bore, since you are rebuilding this i would replace the cam bearings as well, you dont have to since the motor doesn't have many miles on it per the seller, but i wouldn't take his word for it a 100%, just have a automotive machinest check it out

here is a very similar kit to what i am running

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-92000BE040/
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:07 PM
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I'm just going to tear it down right to the bare block, then i will take it to a mechinest, i need the crank, the pistons, rings, etc, i would like to get that in a kit thats why i am hoping to get a 383 stroker kit, then i want to get a set of heads, some good performance heads, then a good cam, and then a good intake, i know it wont be hard looking for the stroker kit, but idk about the cam heads and intake.
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