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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:19 PM
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In the meantime, read through this article and pay attention to the LSA as explained by Kenny Duttweiler....
Turbo Camshaft Guide - How to Select the Right Cam for Your Turbocharged Engine - Car Craft Magazine

The rest of you guys on this forum should read through Duttweiler's take on LSA and overlap and stop automatically suggesting a "114 cam".

"Duttweiler also mentioned that attempting to build a turbocharged engine with a set LSA (such as 112 or 114 degrees) can lead you astray. He mentioned some work he did way back in the early Buick Turbo V6 days while racing these engines in NHRA Stock Eliminator. Stock class rules required the intake and exhaust lift and duration specs to remain stock, so to improve power, he tightened the LSA on these engines to 109 degrees to help the Buick’s really small cam improve power. The engine responded by building boost much quicker. “When you spread the lobe-separation angle way out, the engine gets lazy,” Duttweiler says. As an example of a good V6 engine, Duttweiler says he built a V6 turbo Buick with a 215-degree-at-0.050 intake lobe camshaft that made 900 lb-ft of torque and 580 hp and idled at 16 inches of manifold vacuum."

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Last edited by techinspector1; 09-30-2013 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
It is possible to use the 4416 305HO heads on a thrbo 305 ( especially if the 305 has dished pistons)
if you home port then, add 1.94" valves and "deshroud" the chamber for the new valve, generously
to increase chamber volume. A 64cc to 66cc finished volume would be good.
Porting adds power. Then the boost actually does something.
What are the head castings on your 305?
the castings on the 305 are 14014416
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:33 PM
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lda?

Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
In the meantime, read through this article and pay attention to the LSA as explained by Kenny Duttweiler....
Turbo Camshaft Guide - How to Select the Right Cam for Your Turbocharged Engine - Car Craft Magazine

The rest of you guys on this forum should read through Duttweiler's take on LSA and overlap and stop automatically suggesting a "114 cam".
John Lingenfelter liked very wide LDAs in some applications both turbo and N.A.
I use wider LDAs as the engines get bigger.for lower rpm or smaller engines I "prefer" tighter LDAs.if you do the math,quite often similar results can be obtained with totally different cams.Its tough to get a perfect choice,because,,,whats perfect for you might not be what is perfect for me. application of power plant might change many variables,IE; I like road race type power delivery which is different than drag race type of power delivery.
generally speaking we should have similar choices except where very specific needs are required.
I always recommend a roller cam,,,they make more power and do not usually have lobe problems.
the grinding is higher standards on race type cams too.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robyyo View Post
Those pistons in the link are for a 350.
Awww crap. I don't mess with those fosdick 305's and automatically think 350. Sorry for the wrong link. Here's an upgrade....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jep-170771-8
I don't think you'll find a deep dish 305 forged piston.
The SRP 170771 will make about 8.6:1 with a 76cc head and you can make about 6 lbs of boost on pump gas without detonation with that SCR.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Trade the 882's for a set of 920's. port and mill to 70cc.
(For a flat top piston)

Or use a factory like cast dished piston and use the 4416 heads with porting and the larger valves. (62-64cc finished)

You do not need a forged piston. When it is engineered correctly the turboed engine does not detonate
ping or knock. no severe piston stress. A cast piston is plenty strong.
Most all OEM turbo cars use Cast pistons.

The key is to get the engine compression ratio correct for turbocharging.
Ha Ha, looks like you and I are destined to bump heads for the rest of our natural lives. Using cast or cast hyper pistons in a blower motor is just silly. Forged pistons and a set of Scat Pro Stock rods will do the job and allow you to sleep well at night.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Trade the 882's for a set of 920's. port and mill to 70cc.
(For a flat top piston)

Or use a factory like cast dished piston and use the 4416 heads with porting and the larger valves. (62-64cc finished)

You do not need a forged piston. When it is engineered correctly the turboed engine does not detonate
ping or knock. no severe piston stress. A cast piston is plenty strong.
Most all OEM turbo cars use Cast pistons.

The key is to get the engine compression ratio correct for turbocharging.
Build a turbo motor that does not knock under boost and you will never have piston problems.
Ok, that's what I'm thinking. However I do want to keep the turbo in the engine compartment. I've been doing some research and found this comp cam 12-253-4, which should be correct. So I think I've got the framework for the engine figured out. I found this turbo kit on ebay http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/27109...84.m1438.l2649 what do you guys think about this kit?
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:33 PM
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Ok, I think I know what I'm doing now. Thanks everybody for the help!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 01:35 PM
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So you've managed to turn a simple turbo project into a complete enigne overheal and doubled or trippled the cost...

I hope the OP realizes 90% of what was suggested is NOT needed. He doesn't need to even swap the cam, a bone stock long block would work just fine for the 350hp he's seeking.

Instead of hotrodders.com they should call this budgetcreep.com. Even though you guys make it more like a full out sprint than a creep.
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
overheal
The "overheal" will be the 2nd rebuilding process, after the 1st rebuild with cast pistons fails.
You're just as hard-headed as I am and F-BIRD is. That's what keeps this forum interesting though.
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
The "overheal" will be the 2nd rebuilding process, after the 1st rebuild with cast pistons fails.
You're just as hard-headed as I am and F-BIRD is. That's what keeps this forum interesting though.
MANY factory turbo engines run for a LONG LONG time on cast pistons. Sure they'll break if you don't tune it properly, just make sure you tune it properly.

and 7.5:1 compression will turn this thing into a heat generating monster. stock compression will be fine with an RV cam, a decent intercooled turbo, 8-10psi, and 93 octane. Just be sure to creep up on the tune (start with low boost).
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 02:07 PM
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also, if a cast piston fails, drop in another dime a dozen, dirt cheap 305 long block. a $200 long block (often time FREE long block) is cheaper than new pistons.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
MANY factory turbo engines run for a LONG LONG time on cast pistons. Sure they'll break if you don't tune it properly, just make sure you tune it properly.
You're forgetting that the OEM's have highly-paid engineers on staff to make sure limits and controls are in place. This OP has none of that type of professional engineering help to lean on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
and 7.5:1 compression will turn this thing into a heat generating monster.
I call BS. Show me the proof.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
stock compression will be fine with an RV cam, a decent intercooled turbo, 8-10psi, and 93 octane. Just be sure to creep up on the tune (start with low boost).
I think you've lost your mind. 10 psi on stock SCR with cast pistons? WTF? No, wait. DOUBLE WTF?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
[/B]. There are huge benefits.
sure....



That explains why so many manufacturers are doing it.

And an intercooler is much cheaper than a head swap.


TI, google "TPI turbo" more examples than you can shake a stick at. Go even further and start looking at turbo 3.8L, 4.3L, etc. Slapping a turbo on a bone stock long block is nothing new.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
So you've managed to turn a simple turbo project into a complete enigne overheal and doubled or trippled the cost...

I hope the OP realizes 90% of what was suggested is NOT needed. He doesn't need to even swap the cam, a bone stock long block would work just fine for the 350hp he's seeking.

Instead of hotrodders.com they should call this budgetcreep.com. Even though you guys make it more like a full out sprint than a creep.
I'm going to buy the cam, goes for $134.00. I'll use the 350/76cc heads to lower the comp ratio ( I have these just sitting around anyways). With the proper turbo and tuning I should be at the power level I want without shelling out a huge amount of cash.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robyyo View Post
I'm going to buy the cam, goes for $134.00. I'll use the 350/76cc heads to lower the comp ratio ( I have these just sitting around anyways). With the proper turbo and tuning I should be at the power level I want without shelling out a huge amount of cash.
I'm sure its not proper etiquette but if your doing a TPI 305 turbo build, you really need to spend some time on thirdgen.org
Another good site is http://www.theturboforums.com/
There are many many 305 builds, many stone stock builds making stupid power, including my all time fav "the grenade" thread.....
Your goals are easily acheivable using a simpe eBay turbo, eBay inercooler, walbro fuel pump, injectors and tune. Nothing more....
Its actually that simple.....the issues always arise when the tune is wrong, or oil feed, oil drain, etc.....these are the reasons guys break stuff. Find a tuner in your area with knowledge of gm's TPI motors, one that has done turbo tune's before....again, thirdgen.org can help you here.
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