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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 01:33 PM
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Ok, I think I know what I'm doing now. Thanks everybody for the help!

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 01:35 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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So you've managed to turn a simple turbo project into a complete enigne overheal and doubled or trippled the cost...

I hope the OP realizes 90% of what was suggested is NOT needed. He doesn't need to even swap the cam, a bone stock long block would work just fine for the 350hp he's seeking.

Instead of hotrodders.com they should call this budgetcreep.com. Even though you guys make it more like a full out sprint than a creep.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
overheal
The "overheal" will be the 2nd rebuilding process, after the 1st rebuild with cast pistons fails.
You're just as hard-headed as I am and F-BIRD is. That's what keeps this forum interesting though.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 02:06 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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The "overheal" will be the 2nd rebuilding process, after the 1st rebuild with cast pistons fails.
You're just as hard-headed as I am and F-BIRD is. That's what keeps this forum interesting though.
MANY factory turbo engines run for a LONG LONG time on cast pistons. Sure they'll break if you don't tune it properly, just make sure you tune it properly.

and 7.5:1 compression will turn this thing into a heat generating monster. stock compression will be fine with an RV cam, a decent intercooled turbo, 8-10psi, and 93 octane. Just be sure to creep up on the tune (start with low boost).
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 02:07 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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also, if a cast piston fails, drop in another dime a dozen, dirt cheap 305 long block. a $200 long block (often time FREE long block) is cheaper than new pistons.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
MANY factory turbo engines run for a LONG LONG time on cast pistons. Sure they'll break if you don't tune it properly, just make sure you tune it properly.
You're forgetting that the OEM's have highly-paid engineers on staff to make sure limits and controls are in place. This OP has none of that type of professional engineering help to lean on.

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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
and 7.5:1 compression will turn this thing into a heat generating monster.
I call BS. Show me the proof.

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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
stock compression will be fine with an RV cam, a decent intercooled turbo, 8-10psi, and 93 octane. Just be sure to creep up on the tune (start with low boost).
I think you've lost your mind. 10 psi on stock SCR with cast pistons? WTF? No, wait. DOUBLE WTF?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 02:47 PM
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Intercooler adds too much cost.
Start with lower compression ratio. end up with a more reliable more powerfull engine.
High compression ratio really limit the boost you can run on pump gas.

Swapping the heads achives two essential things at the same time. Improves port flow for power.
drops the compression ratio for power.-boost on pump gas.
You need not spend a ton on the heads. But you will spend a ton trying to get around the
restrictive flow of a stock head and incorrect compression ratio.
You do not need to to kill it with boost. Beause you have done the work to improve flow too.
A moderate amount of boost that actually gets air IN and OUT of the motor, with improved head flow
and correct cam and exhaust will make a ton MORE power all while not stressing the parts.
8 psi thru a 8.5:1cr engine will heads that flow air will make huge RELIABLE power.
No intercooler is required.
ESPECIALLY IF YOU MOUNT the turbo(s) at the back of the car. There are huge benefits.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
[/B]. There are huge benefits.
sure....



That explains why so many manufacturers are doing it.

And an intercooler is much cheaper than a head swap.


TI, google "TPI turbo" more examples than you can shake a stick at. Go even further and start looking at turbo 3.8L, 4.3L, etc. Slapping a turbo on a bone stock long block is nothing new.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
So you've managed to turn a simple turbo project into a complete enigne overheal and doubled or trippled the cost...

I hope the OP realizes 90% of what was suggested is NOT needed. He doesn't need to even swap the cam, a bone stock long block would work just fine for the 350hp he's seeking.

Instead of hotrodders.com they should call this budgetcreep.com. Even though you guys make it more like a full out sprint than a creep.
I'm going to buy the cam, goes for $134.00. I'll use the 350/76cc heads to lower the comp ratio ( I have these just sitting around anyways). With the proper turbo and tuning I should be at the power level I want without shelling out a huge amount of cash.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robyyo View Post
I'm going to buy the cam, goes for $134.00. I'll use the 350/76cc heads to lower the comp ratio ( I have these just sitting around anyways). With the proper turbo and tuning I should be at the power level I want without shelling out a huge amount of cash.
I'm sure its not proper etiquette but if your doing a TPI 305 turbo build, you really need to spend some time on thirdgen.org
Another good site is http://www.theturboforums.com/
There are many many 305 builds, many stone stock builds making stupid power, including my all time fav "the grenade" thread.....
Your goals are easily acheivable using a simpe eBay turbo, eBay inercooler, walbro fuel pump, injectors and tune. Nothing more....
Its actually that simple.....the issues always arise when the tune is wrong, or oil feed, oil drain, etc.....these are the reasons guys break stuff. Find a tuner in your area with knowledge of gm's TPI motors, one that has done turbo tune's before....again, thirdgen.org can help you here.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 06:31 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Go with a Bosch 044 fuel pump. But ditto the above post. It's not rocket science.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
I'm sure its not proper etiquette but if your doing a TPI 305 turbo build, you really need to spend some time on thirdgen.org
Another good site is http://www.theturboforums.com/
There are many many 305 builds, many stone stock builds making stupid power, including my all time fav "the grenade" thread.....
Your goals are easily acheivable using a simpe eBay turbo, eBay inercooler, walbro fuel pump, injectors and tune. Nothing more....
Its actually that simple.....the issues always arise when the tune is wrong, or oil feed, oil drain, etc.....these are the reasons guys break stuff. Find a tuner in your area with knowledge of gm's TPI motors, one that has done turbo tune's before....again, thirdgen.org can help you here.
Thanks, I've been on thirdgen.org. So you guys are saying with the stock motor and the correct turbo and tune I could be at 350 hp? No cam/head/lower the comp ratio neccessary? Just upgraded fuel system and ebay turbos?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by robyyo View Post
Thanks, I've been on thirdgen.org. So you guys are saying with the stock motor and the correct turbo and tune I could be at 350 hp? No cam/head/lower the comp ratio neccessary? Just upgraded fuel system and ebay turbos?
The right sized turbo, an eBay intercooler, the right fuel supply and tune.
350hp? Sure, if you ran it with a couple plug wires off lol.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:57 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Thanks, I've been on thirdgen.org. So you guys are saying with the stock motor and the correct turbo and tune I could be at 350 hp? No cam/head/lower the comp ratio neccessary? Just upgraded fuel system and ebay turbos?
A lot of people like spending other people's money. A mild cam would help but even that isn't needed. I would just get a cheap white box RV cam, they're like 75 bucks for the kit.

Leave the rest of the engine alone.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 09:33 PM
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Robyyo, my son and I are in the part gathering process for a rear turbo setup on a 327 TPI motor. I was planning on starting a thread with some questions, so I'll ask them on this thread as you have a relativley similar setup. I don't want to upset the apple cart though by hijacking the thread!

What do you guys think in terms of pipe size to the intake from the rear of the car? Smaller is better for me due to space limitations but I don't want to limit the amount of air flow below what out stock TPI throttle body will handle. I would use 2" if it would work, but I could use 2.5" if needed.

F-bird mentioned that the rear turbo will cool the intake charge enough to eliminate the need for a CAC; if we keep the boost in the 6-10 psi range will the intake charge be cool enough?

We are using a Comp 12-236-12 cam with ported stock 70cc heads with 1.94/1.50 valves; CR is 8.95:1 and we running forged Probe flat tops. We have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and are using 27 lb/hr injectors and controlling it with an aftermarket controller(ecm). Will we be alright with 93 octane? Or to what boost level will be OK with 93 octane?

Tech, hopefully you consider the 327 one step ahead of a 'fosdick' (where do you come up with this stuff)
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